Himalchuli East | 1984 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Himalchuli East in 1984 via SW Ridge, led by Michael (Mike) Yager. Summit reached on 22nd October 1984. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1018
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME84301
Peak ID HIME
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Michael (Mike) Yager
Sponsor American Himalchuli Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-16
Summit Date 1984-10-22
Summit Time 1245
Summit Days 36
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7893
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/09),C1(28/09,5485m),C2(02/10,6100m),C3(18/10,6700m),Biv(20/10,7255m),Smt(22/10)
Route Notes Summit assault from bivouac delayed a day by fierce winds. 2 technically difficult sections: (1) gully and rock system 16,000-17,500 ft where fixed 2000 ft, (2) between C2 and C3 through an icefall of snow and ice climbing. Less difficult than expected from 1979 attempt or more difficult E Ridge. 2-18 Oct: one week of storm, rest and meeting with trekking group and 4 days to make icefall route. Yager hit 3 times by rocks in gully system but not serious injuries - some frostnip. Thomas left early because afraid. Letter from Stacey Standley - 29 Oct 1984 Pema Dorje and Mike summited at 1:45 pm. Oct 22 followed by Erick Jackson and Dan Langmade 45 minutes later. They left C4 at 8:30 am. On the summit they found a Japanese ice axe on a piton. I have marked our 4 camps above base on the photo at the top. C1-18,000 ft, C2-20,000 ft, C3-22000 ft, C4-23,000 ft. All climbers ascended without oxygen. We spent 36 days on the mountain above the base camp. We were pinned in high camps by bad weather for 9 days.
Accidents Yager hit 3 times by rocks in gully system but no serious injuries; some frostnip
Achievement 1st American ascent; 1st autumn ascent 1st ascent of SW Ridge
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448385
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jody Forster M 1948 USA Member Tempe, Arizona Professional photographer Details Other expeditions
Joseph (Joe) Frank M 1953 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Geologist Details Other expeditions
Richard A. (Dick) Jackson M 1950 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Alpinist & ski guide Details Other expeditions
Daniel (Dan) Langmade M 1956 USA Climber Scottsdale, Arizona Manager of metal-products manfacturing company Details Other expeditions
Richard A. (Rick) St. Onge M 1944 USA Exp Doctor West Newbury, Massachusetts Physician Details Other expeditions
Stacy Standley M 1945 USA BC Manager Aspen, Colorado Professional marketer Details Other expeditions
Jay Thomas M 1958 USA Climber Berkeley, California Paramedic Details Other expeditions
Michael John (Mike) Yager M 1946 USA Leader Seattle, Washington Professional alpinist & river guide Details Other expeditions
Pema Dorje Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME84301 AAJ Yager, Mike Himalchuli - 59:84-88 (1985) -
HIME84301 MM - - - 102:14-15 (Mar 1985) -
HIME84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198508400/Himalchuli - - -