Himalchuli East | 1983 S Face-W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Himalchuli East in 1983 via S Face-W Ridge, led by Hisatoshi Takabayashi. Summit reached on 30th September 1983. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 115
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME83301
Peak ID HIME
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hisatoshi Takabayashi
Sponsor Kagawa Worker's Alpine Federation Himalchuli Expedition 1983
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-09-15
Summit Date 1983-09-30
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to fatal accident
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/09,3800m),C1.ABC(21/09,4800m),C2(26/09,5600m),C3(6500m),xxx(30/09,6500m)
Route Notes BC south-southwest of main peak near glacier. After Sept 30 bad weather (snow and avalanche danger) so all in C1. On Oct 6 went to make C3 and 4 members Fujita, Hase, Kanazawa and Morisato carried personal equipment to go to C3 and other 4 members in support carrying supplies of food and tents with 2 Sherpas resting in BC for 1st summit attack after 5-6 days. 1st team reached 6300m at flat place. 9:10 am one member slipped; all roped together and expected him to stop himself but he did not and pulled others (not strong belay because seemed safe place). All 4 slipped 200m. Hase died 9:15 am and Fujita 5 pm in tent near where he lay unable to move him. Kanazawa injured unable to go down from where Fujita died, but Morisato went down to C2 on 7 Oct. Helicopter went to C1 on 9 Oct which evacuated Kanazawa. Yes - want to do it [again] in 1985 or 1986. Route followed is easiest routes on Himalchuli. Mrs Otsu - 10 Oct 83 Kanazawa has some fractures and breathing problem. Morisato in better condition. Kanazawa in Otsu's house and stays here at least 3-4 more days. Expedition abandoned. Others arrive KTM 18 Oct.
Accidents 2 killed by fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447996
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-w ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Toyoharu Fujikawa M 1946 Japan Climber Awa, Tokushima, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Fujita M 1952 Japan Climber Takase, Kagawa, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Nobuhiro Hase M 1956 Japan Climber Kokubunji, Kagawa, Japan Private tutor Details Other expeditions
Ken Kanazawa M 1945 Japan Climbing Leader Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan Dentist Details Other expeditions
Toshihiko Kawajiri M 1956 Japan Climber Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Yasuyoshi Morisato M 1954 Japan Climber Marugame, Kagawa, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Shunji Nishida M 1949 Japan Climber Hiyoshi, Kitauwa-ku, Ehime, Japan Farmer & surveyor Details Other expeditions
Yuji Onji M 1954 Japan Climber Zentsuji, Kanagawa, Japan Male nurse Details Other expeditions
Hisatoshi Takabayashi M 1926 Japan Leader Marugame, Kagawa, Japan Ironworks owner Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME83301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 58:247 (1984) -
HIME83301 IWA - - - 105:200 (1984) -
HIME83301 IWA - - - 105:40 (1984) -
HIME83301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424701/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli-Tragedy - - -