Himalchuli East | 1981 S Ridge
A Japan expedition to Himalchuli East in 1981 via S Ridge, led by Hideo Nishigori. Summit reached on 4th May 1981. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1841 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | HIME81101 |
| Peak ID | HIME |
| Year | 1981 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Hideo Nishigori |
| Sponsor | Gakushuin University Himalaya Expedition 1981 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1981-03-27 |
| Summit Date | 1981-05-04 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 38 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6900 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(27/03,3500m),C1(01/04,4450m),C2(06/04,5200m),C3(11/04,6000m),C4(24/04,6200m),C5(01/05,6520m),xxx(04/05,6900m) |
| Route Notes | Nishigori - 19 May 81 All members returned KTM yesterday. High point was 4 May by Kato and Tsuji. Stopped because route difficult. Approach via East Ridge of Bauda very long and needed total 3 camps not 2 as expected. Then South Ridge of Himalchuli was up and down, steep ice, difficult for carrying loads, Sherpas could not carry and this "consumed our days." Most difficult part of route still ahead on final summit ridge. Route is possible - need 6 camps and better climbing Sherpas. All Ok, no accidents or frostbite. Did not climb Bauda or any other summit. Nishigori - 7 March 81 2 arrive tomorrow. All leave 10 March by road to Trisuli Bazar, then caravan to BC at foot South Ridge (13 days). BC at 3500m on Chhulung Glacier; 5 camps with highest at 7200m. 11 years ago Japanese climbed same route via very easy ridge to C2 and thence to Bauda. South Ridge of Himalchuli = new route 3 Sherpas above BC, hope they carry to final C5. Route difficult from pass between C2 and C3 to top especially above C5 where very steep rock and must go over on to snow on West (left) side of ridge and return to ridge near summit. Oxygen for use sleeping only at C5 and emergency. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447115 |
| Year | 1981 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yooji Iizuka | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Office worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Imai | M | 1959 | Japan | Climber | Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan | Student of physics | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Kato | M | 1957 | Japan | Climber | Atsugi, Kanagawa, Japan | Economics student | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshio Kinugawa | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Yokohama, Japan | Company manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshio Kubota | M | 1957 | Japan | Climber | Aizu-Wakamatsu, Fukushima, Japan | History student | Details Other expeditions |
| Araki Masaharu | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Yokohama, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideo Nishigori | M | 1940 | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, building maintenance company | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuyoshi Sayo | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Yokohama, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroyuki Shimizu | M | 1960 | Japan | Climber | Tokorozawa, Saitama, Japan | Economics student | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuyuki Takahashi | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Matsuda, Kanagawa, Japan | Office worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Norisato Tsuji | M | 1960 | Japan | Climber | Zushi, Kanagawa, Japan | Economics student | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| HIME81101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 56:226-227 (1982) | - |
| HIME81101 | IWA | - | - | - | 88:188-189 (1982) | - |
| HIME81101 | IWA | - | - | - | 88:46 (1982) | - |
| HIME81101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198222604/Asia-Nepal-Himachuli-Attempt | - | - | - |