Himalchuli East | 1981 S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Himalchuli East in 1981 via S Ridge, led by Hideo Nishigori. Summit reached on 4th May 1981. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1841
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME81101
Peak ID HIME
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hideo Nishigori
Sponsor Gakushuin University Himalaya Expedition 1981
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-03-27
Summit Date 1981-05-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/03,3500m),C1(01/04,4450m),C2(06/04,5200m),C3(11/04,6000m),C4(24/04,6200m),C5(01/05,6520m),xxx(04/05,6900m)
Route Notes Nishigori - 19 May 81 All members returned KTM yesterday. High point was 4 May by Kato and Tsuji. Stopped because route difficult. Approach via East Ridge of Bauda very long and needed total 3 camps not 2 as expected. Then South Ridge of Himalchuli was up and down, steep ice, difficult for carrying loads, Sherpas could not carry and this "consumed our days." Most difficult part of route still ahead on final summit ridge. Route is possible - need 6 camps and better climbing Sherpas. All Ok, no accidents or frostbite. Did not climb Bauda or any other summit. Nishigori - 7 March 81 2 arrive tomorrow. All leave 10 March by road to Trisuli Bazar, then caravan to BC at foot South Ridge (13 days). BC at 3500m on Chhulung Glacier; 5 camps with highest at 7200m. 11 years ago Japanese climbed same route via very easy ridge to C2 and thence to Bauda. South Ridge of Himalchuli = new route 3 Sherpas above BC, hope they carry to final C5. Route difficult from pass between C2 and C3 to top especially above C5 where very steep rock and must go over on to snow on West (left) side of ridge and return to ridge near summit. Oxygen for use sleeping only at C5 and emergency.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447115
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yooji Iizuka M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Imai M 1959 Japan Climber Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan Student of physics Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Kato M 1957 Japan Climber Atsugi, Kanagawa, Japan Economics student Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Kinugawa M 1946 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Company manager Details Other expeditions
Toshio Kubota M 1957 Japan Climber Aizu-Wakamatsu, Fukushima, Japan History student Details Other expeditions
Araki Masaharu M 1952 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Hideo Nishigori M 1940 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Staff member, building maintenance company Details Other expeditions
Yasuyoshi Sayo M 1953 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Hiroyuki Shimizu M 1960 Japan Climber Tokorozawa, Saitama, Japan Economics student Details Other expeditions
Kazuyuki Takahashi M 1942 Japan Climber Matsuda, Kanagawa, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Norisato Tsuji M 1960 Japan Climber Zushi, Kanagawa, Japan Economics student Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME81101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:226-227 (1982) -
HIME81101 IWA - - - 88:188-189 (1982) -
HIME81101 IWA - - - 88:46 (1982) -
HIME81101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198222604/Asia-Nepal-Himachuli-Attempt - - -