Himalchuli East | 1979 E Ridge (to 5800m)

A USA expedition to Himalchuli East in 1979 via E Ridge (to 5800m), led by Skip Horner. Summit reached on 1st November 1979. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2084
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME79301
Peak ID HIME
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge (to 5800m)
Route 2 S Ridge (to 6100m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Skip Horner
Sponsor American Himalchuli Expedition 1979
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dumre->Dordi Khola
Basecamp Date 1979-10-02
Summit Date 1979-11-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to snow conditions
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/10,4725m),C1(07/10,5240m); NewBC.C1(28/10,5485m),C2(30/10,5700m),xxx(01/11,6100m)
Route Notes Skip Harner - 11 Nov 79 Got to 20,000 ft on S Ridge about 1st or 2nd Nov. High camp at 19,700 ft on E Ridge. Then 500 ft ice wall above 20,000 ft negotiable but only 3 members left, not enough support for safety. Went to base of ice wall; had no fixed rope; left above ice wall looked straightforward. Snowed every day. St. Onge - 4 Nov 79 St. Onge got altitude sickness, waited a week, didn't get better enough to be able join climb and left expedition 27th Oct. Other 3 climbing still. Hard part overcame and "just matter of time" till they'd get to summit by second route. Stacy Standley - 29 Oct 79 Yager, Miller and Standley came to KTM yesterday, left expedition 25 Oct. Other 4 trying alpine-style attempt via 2nd route. Had high camp at 14,500-15,000 ft on east side of SW Ridge (made camp on 22 or 23 Oct) and 4 were at this camp on 25th and Sherpas moving gear over to support ridge attempt. Trying to do camp to summit and back in 10 days - top 3-4 Nov. If they were out the icefall problem, it might go. BC hit by avalanche blast (ice cloud) but no very serious damage. On 23 Oct Standley and Miller left because ran out of time. Yager concerned about rafting.
Accidents No injuries or oother serious problems
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446563
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge (to 5800m)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kevin Beardsley M 1947 USA Climber Taos, New Mexico Ski patrolman (head of a ski area's ski patrol) Details Other expeditions
Skip Horner M 1947 USA Leader Aspen, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Richard A. (Dick) Jackson M 1950 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
E. Jack Miller M 1938 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Richard A. (Rick) St. Onge M 1944 USA Climber Atkinson, New Hampshire Physician specializing in orthopedics Details Other expeditions
Stacy Standley M 1945 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Ski area designer Details Other expeditions
Michael John (Mike) Yager M 1946 USA Climber Moose, Wyoming & Kathmandu, Nepal River guide Details Other expeditions
Anu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME79301 AAJ Horner, Skip - - 53:620-621 (1980) -
HIME79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062003/Asia-Nepal-Himal-Chuli-Attempt-from-the-Southeast - - -