Himalchuli East | 1978 S Face-SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Himalchuli East in 1978 via S Face-SW Ridge, led by Yoshio Ogata. Summit reached on 6th May 1978. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2139
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME78101
Peak ID HIME
Year 1978
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yoshio Ogata
Sponsor Yuki-To-Iwa-No-Kai Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dordi Khola
Basecamp Date 1978-03-28
Summit Date 1978-05-06
Summit Time 1315
Summit Days 39
Total Days 48
Termination Date 1978-05-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7893
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed illegally Himalchuli West (HIMW-781-01)
Campsites BC(28/03,3650m),C1(01/04,4700m),C2(06/04,5500m),C3(19/04,6000m),C4(28/04,6500m),C5(04/05,7300m),Smt(06/05)
Route Notes SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78 Leader of Himalchuli expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing West Peak without official permission (West Peak not on permitted list). Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 20 June 78 Himalchuli expedition said they had to climb W Peak to reach Main Peak, but they climbed W Peak day after Main Peak. Action will be taken against them, but when and what he cannot say. Ogata - 25 May 78 All arrive KTM yesterday. West Peak by leader Ogata and Sugeno 7th May. North Peak not attacked. Very long way to Main Peak by Fujikura, Miyazaki and only Tamura. Only one attack on Main and W Peaks. Bad weather (snow and wind) prevented further efforts. C5 main summiters start 5:00 am, reached summit 1:00 pm and returned C5 8:00 pm. Very long: 3000m from C5 to Main Peak (route on ridge to Main Peak went behind West Peak and little bit down behind W Peak). Most difficult points in climbing were rock immediately below C2 and ice above C3. From 5050m to 6500m needed 3000m fixed rope. This the bottom of South Face to top where their route got onto SW Ridge from South Face. 11 April Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa killed while returning to KTM which is why took so long to established C3: all distracted by his death. All other Sherpas and all members good health. No accident or frostbite. Sigenori Tamura used oxygen after summit, very tired and used oxygen for sleeping - only use of oxygen by summiters. SR Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 78 Success - 6 May Kazumi Fujikura, engineer, born 3/50 Hisawa Miyazaki, cook Sigenori Tamura, born 3/50, gardener C5 4 May 7300m Weather fine but rains and hails everyday since 6 May. Stopped climbing. All well. Ogata - 4 March 78 Ogata was on 1974 Tukuche expedition. Route near same as 1975 expedition. 1960 via Musi Khola east from Marshyangdi R to SW Ridge of other Peak 7371 to Himalchuli South Face. 1975 Marshyangdi River to Dordi Khola to South Face, not SW Face. 10 members leave KTM 7 March (all now in KTM). By bus Dumre bridge then caravan about 10 days with 130 porters to BC 4000m. 8 Sherpas - 5 HA and 3 BC, Pasang = sirdar. Main summit 5-10 May West Peak and North Peak and summit within 1 week of each other. 3 porters, 3 members each for summit Main Peak 6 members West Peak 3 other members North Peak 9 = all members Main Peak Team = 9 climbers and 1 Dr who stays at BC. Oxygen not for climbing, but sleeping in C6 only.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446018
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face-sw ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yoshio Ogata M 1948 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Research worker of Central Research of Denkikaga Details Other expeditions
Kazumi Fujikura M 1950 Japan Deputy Leader Konosu, Saitama, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Satoru Tamura M 1948 Japan Climber Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo, Japan Office worker of Japan Aircargo Consolidates Co. Details Other expeditions
Hisao Miyazaki M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Cook of Chikuma Restaurant Details Other expeditions
Sadaichi Omata M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Engineer of Sanei Service Co. Details Other expeditions
Sigenori Tamura M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Gardener of Hirutasyokubutsuen Details Other expeditions
Tadashi Okamoto M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Electrical engineer (Osawadenkiseisakujo Co.) Details Other expeditions
Kenji Morohashi M 1954 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Electronics engineer (Nihondenki Co.) Details Other expeditions
Kazuhiro Sugeno M 1949 Japan Climber Fukushima, Japan Architect for Mitsubishikensetsu Co. Details Other expeditions
Tetsuo Nagatani M 1949 Japan Exp Doctor Yokohama, Japan Physician at Yokohama City Medical College Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME78101 AAJ - - - 53:266 (1979) -
HIME78101 AAJ Ogata, Yoshio - - 53:270 (1979) -
HIME78101 IWA - - - 67:145 (1979) -
HIME78101 IWA - - - 67:44 (1979) -
HIME78101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197926601/Asia-Nepal-Disciplinary-Measures-Taken-by-the-Nepalese-Government - - -
HIME78101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927002/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli-South-Face - - -
HIME78101 MM - - - 63:11 (Jul 1978) -