Himalchuli East | 1975 SW Face

A Japan expedition to Himalchuli East in 1975 via SW Face, led by Hidezumi Komi. Summit reached on 3rd May 1975. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2300
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME75101
Peak ID HIME
Year 1975
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hidezumi Komi
Sponsor Senshu University Himalchuli Expedition 1975
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1975-03-27
Summit Date 1975-05-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 37
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1975-05-11
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6750m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 6750
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/03,3930m),C1(31/03,4950m),C2(12/04,6050m),C3(25/04,6400m),xxx(03/05,6750m)
Route Notes Kase & Ueda - 15 May 75 SW Face route different. Very difficult for load carrying to 6600m. C3 = Keio Univ's C4 altitude but not same place; their routes for highest point reached 6750m. 3 May by Hosoi and Kose, Ueda and Suzuki, then loads not coming up. "I think our party no power." Route difficult and 10 Sherpas not used properly and also were afraid of routes great difficulty. No accidents, no frostbite, very big avalanches but C1 and C2 but no one hurt: 6 am 3rd or 5th April very near route which was very steep and up icefall. All members here in KTM 3 days then disperse. Sherpas not carrying above C3; making route above C3, 1 Sherpa only present. Komi: heavy snowfall also problem, no porters available. MP Khanal, MFA - 9 May 75 Himalchuli abandoned 21 Baisakh = 4 May, bad weather. 28 Baisakh leave BC for KTM. Kase, Terada and Suzuki - 5 Feb 75 3 now in KTM, rest arrive 27 Feb and leave March by Pokhara raod to Marshyangdi Khola crossing and to BC on there end March at 5000m. 5 or 6 high camps SW Face route, C2 to C6
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444916
Year 1975
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hidezumi Komi M 1930 Japan Leader Narashino, Chiba, Japan President, Fujiden Co., electric wire manufacturers Details Other expeditions
Takashi Hosoi M 1936 Japan Climbing Leader Tokyo, Japan Vice president, Hosoi Co., camera parts & lense manufacturers Details Other expeditions
Ryoukichi Ueda M 1939 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Banshu Electric Co., electric wire manufacturers Details Other expeditions
Tomio Ueda M 1939 Japan Climber Hiratsuka, Kanagawa, Japan Elementary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Akimasa Terada M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Terada Co., office-building cleaners Details Other expeditions
Yoshiaki Suzuki M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Fujiden Co., electric wire manufacturers Details Other expeditions
Masatosi Kase M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Ginzashomei Co., lighting-fixtures manufacturer Details Other expeditions
Mithuaki Niu M 1937 Japan Exp Doctor Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME75101 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 50:519 (1976) -
HIME75101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Himalchuli - 47:44-45 (Jan 1976) -
HIME75101 IWA - - - 48:58-59 (1976) -
HIME75101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197651902/Asia-Nepal-Himal-Chuli-Attempt - - -