Himalchuli East | 1974 E Ridge-NE Face
A Japan expedition to Himalchuli East in 1974 via E Ridge-NE Face, led by Ichiro Kuribayashi. Summit reached on 23rd October 1974. 16 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2312 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | HIME74301 |
| Peak ID | HIME |
| Year | 1974 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | E Ridge-NE Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Ichiro Kuribayashi |
| Sponsor | Expedition from Aoyama Gakuin University to Himalchuli |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1974-09-25 |
| Summit Date | 1974-10-23 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 28 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7050m due to increasing snowfall and strong wind |
| High Point (m) | 7050 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 16 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(25/09,4100m),C1(28/09,5220m),C2(02/10,5800m),C3(09/10,6450m),C4(16/10,6150m),C5(22/10,6800m),xxx(23/10,7050m) |
| Route Notes | All arrive KTM 14 Nov 74. Tobari, Iwai, Fujinuma were ill from altitude and sent down for a week two times to nearest village at 2700m. Iwai completely recovered and reached C4. From 7050m retreated from heavy snowfall and danger of great snow slide and to protect members and Sherpas lives. 7050m reached by Tsuchida, Okano and Suzuki. Sherpas on 23 Oct, day after they had made C5 at 6800m. Route West Ridge. If we could have 2 or 3 days more good weather could have succeeded. Needed 1 or 2 more camps; probably 1 camp and bivouac. No avalanches hit expedition. No damage from 2 that went nearby. No accidents, no frostbite; no yeti. Went to try Himalchuli again with somewhat different logistics BC->C1 1100m = too long, too big differece in height and tired out members; or might choose Chhulung Khola route to East Ridge and C4 would be at C2 or C3 altitude in make C3 advances base or even BC, arriving by helicopter. By 23 Oct no food in C5 and rest possible carry up from C3 and C4, thus had to abandon. East Ridge very difficult, other routes easy. Want to come again after 2-3 years. MP Khanal, MFA - 31 Oct 74 Himalchuli abandoned. Increasing snowfall and strong wind since 29 Oct. Expect leave BC in few days. Joshi, RSS - 24 Oct 74 Himalchuli established C5 at 6800m by Tsuchida, Okano and 2 Sherpas. MP Khanal, MFA - 13 Oct 74 C2 5800m on 2 Oct 1:30 pm by K. Tsuchida and 2 Sherpas. Planned C3 within couple of days from 2 Oct. Himalchuli - 25 Aug 74 Members arrive 31 Aug and leave KTM 10 Sept. Route to mountain via Dordi Khola and very difficult pass southwest of Bauda. BC at Lidanda Glacier if can reach this way (MFA forbids via Buri Gandaki which expedition prefers, or prefers Marshyangdi Khola with BC on Musi Khola) Climbing route: East Ridge from north if possible - same route of JAC 2nd expedition to Manaslu, but MFA may not permit reaching north side of East Ridge and south side of ridge very steep wall. H. Mihara, Soyam Gakuin Univ - 11 Aug 74 Leave KTM 10 Sept. Main party arrive 13 Aug. Now 4 members in KTM (arrive 1 Aug) and all baggage. Route not decided. Maybe not allowed go to north side. Have no detailed maps here, main party may bring with them. 4 Sherpas including sirdar (not many because of troubles last spring). All members live in Tokyo. Kuribayashi and Tokushisa maybe not go above BC and stay there only 2-3 weeks and return KTM and Japan. Annapurna II leader died in mountains so expedition may not come to Nepal. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2444723 |
| Year | 1974 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | e ridge-ne face |
Members
16 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ichiro Kuribayashi | M | - | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Writer of books and articles on art | Details Other expeditions |
| Takeshi Suzuki | M | - | Japan | Climbing Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, Associated Lumber & Trading Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Shisei Tobari | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, Nikkan Kogyo Shimbun (Industrial Daily news) | Details Other expeditions |
| Kosuke Tsuchida | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Owner of commercial art studio | Details Other expeditions |
| Noboru Sawaguchi | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Owner of Sawaguchi Photo Studio | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsugio Iwai | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, Nisshin Kasei Co. (asphalt plant) | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuji Fujinuma | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, Tsuchida's commercial art studio | Details Other expeditions |
| Mamoru Sudo | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, Azuma Steel Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideo Mihara | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | 4th-year economics student, Aoyama-Gakuin University | Details Other expeditions |
| Tatsuro Okano | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | 4th-year business student, Aoyama-Gakuin University | Details Other expeditions |
| Shinji Kobayashi | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | 4th-year economics student, Aoyama-Gakuin University | Details Other expeditions |
| Fumiaki Fujita | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | 4th-year economics student, Aoyama-Gakuin University | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuo Kato | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | 4th-year law student, Aoyama-Gakuin University | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuyuki Ishiguro | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | 4th-year law student, Aoyama-Gakuin University | Details Other expeditions |
| Akio Ueki | M | 1947 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Tokyo, Japan | Physician at Tokyo Medical College Hospital | Details Other expeditions |
| Tamao Tokuhisa | M | - | Japan | General Advisor | Tokyo, Japan | Business professor (Aoyama-Gakuin University) | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| HIME74301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 49:200-201 (1975) | - |
| HIME74301 | IWA | - | - | - | 42:32-33 (1975) | - |
| HIME74301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520005/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli | - | - | - |