Himalchuli East | 1974 E Ridge-NE Face

A Japan expedition to Himalchuli East in 1974 via E Ridge-NE Face, led by Ichiro Kuribayashi. Summit reached on 23rd October 1974. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2312
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME74301
Peak ID HIME
Year 1974
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge-NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Ichiro Kuribayashi
Sponsor Expedition from Aoyama Gakuin University to Himalchuli
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1974-09-25
Summit Date 1974-10-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 28
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7050m due to increasing snowfall and strong wind
High Point (m) 7050
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/09,4100m),C1(28/09,5220m),C2(02/10,5800m),C3(09/10,6450m),C4(16/10,6150m),C5(22/10,6800m),xxx(23/10,7050m)
Route Notes All arrive KTM 14 Nov 74. Tobari, Iwai, Fujinuma were ill from altitude and sent down for a week two times to nearest village at 2700m. Iwai completely recovered and reached C4. From 7050m retreated from heavy snowfall and danger of great snow slide and to protect members and Sherpas lives. 7050m reached by Tsuchida, Okano and Suzuki. Sherpas on 23 Oct, day after they had made C5 at 6800m. Route West Ridge. If we could have 2 or 3 days more good weather could have succeeded. Needed 1 or 2 more camps; probably 1 camp and bivouac. No avalanches hit expedition. No damage from 2 that went nearby. No accidents, no frostbite; no yeti. Went to try Himalchuli again with somewhat different logistics BC->C1 1100m = too long, too big differece in height and tired out members; or might choose Chhulung Khola route to East Ridge and C4 would be at C2 or C3 altitude in make C3 advances base or even BC, arriving by helicopter. By 23 Oct no food in C5 and rest possible carry up from C3 and C4, thus had to abandon. East Ridge very difficult, other routes easy. Want to come again after 2-3 years. MP Khanal, MFA - 31 Oct 74 Himalchuli abandoned. Increasing snowfall and strong wind since 29 Oct. Expect leave BC in few days. Joshi, RSS - 24 Oct 74 Himalchuli established C5 at 6800m by Tsuchida, Okano and 2 Sherpas. MP Khanal, MFA - 13 Oct 74 C2 5800m on 2 Oct 1:30 pm by K. Tsuchida and 2 Sherpas. Planned C3 within couple of days from 2 Oct. Himalchuli - 25 Aug 74 Members arrive 31 Aug and leave KTM 10 Sept. Route to mountain via Dordi Khola and very difficult pass southwest of Bauda. BC at Lidanda Glacier if can reach this way (MFA forbids via Buri Gandaki which expedition prefers, or prefers Marshyangdi Khola with BC on Musi Khola) Climbing route: East Ridge from north if possible - same route of JAC 2nd expedition to Manaslu, but MFA may not permit reaching north side of East Ridge and south side of ridge very steep wall. H. Mihara, Soyam Gakuin Univ - 11 Aug 74 Leave KTM 10 Sept. Main party arrive 13 Aug. Now 4 members in KTM (arrive 1 Aug) and all baggage. Route not decided. Maybe not allowed go to north side. Have no detailed maps here, main party may bring with them. 4 Sherpas including sirdar (not many because of troubles last spring). All members live in Tokyo. Kuribayashi and Tokushisa maybe not go above BC and stay there only 2-3 weeks and return KTM and Japan. Annapurna II leader died in mountains so expedition may not come to Nepal.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444723
Year 1974
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge-ne face

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ichiro Kuribayashi M - Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Writer of books and articles on art Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Suzuki M - Japan Climbing Leader Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Associated Lumber & Trading Co. Details Other expeditions
Shisei Tobari M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Nikkan Kogyo Shimbun (Industrial Daily news) Details Other expeditions
Kosuke Tsuchida M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Owner of commercial art studio Details Other expeditions
Noboru Sawaguchi M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Owner of Sawaguchi Photo Studio Details Other expeditions
Tsugio Iwai M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Nisshin Kasei Co. (asphalt plant) Details Other expeditions
Yuji Fujinuma M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Tsuchida's commercial art studio Details Other expeditions
Mamoru Sudo M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Azuma Steel Co. Details Other expeditions
Hideo Mihara M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan 4th-year economics student, Aoyama-Gakuin University Details Other expeditions
Tatsuro Okano M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan 4th-year business student, Aoyama-Gakuin University Details Other expeditions
Shinji Kobayashi M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan 4th-year economics student, Aoyama-Gakuin University Details Other expeditions
Fumiaki Fujita M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan 4th-year economics student, Aoyama-Gakuin University Details Other expeditions
Nobuo Kato M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan 4th-year law student, Aoyama-Gakuin University Details Other expeditions
Nobuyuki Ishiguro M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan 4th-year law student, Aoyama-Gakuin University Details Other expeditions
Akio Ueki M 1947 Japan Exp Doctor Tokyo, Japan Physician at Tokyo Medical College Hospital Details Other expeditions
Tamao Tokuhisa M - Japan General Advisor Tokyo, Japan Business professor (Aoyama-Gakuin University) Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME74301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 49:200-201 (1975) -
HIME74301 IWA - - - 42:32-33 (1975) -
HIME74301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520005/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli - - -