Himalchuli East | 1974 NE Face

A Italy expedition to Himalchuli East in 1974 via NE Face, led by Annibalo Bonicelli. Summit reached on 7th May 1974. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2317
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME74101
Peak ID HIME
Year 1974
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Annibalo Bonicelli
Sponsor Italian Alpine Club's Antonio Locatelli Section, Bergamo
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Trisuli Bazar->Buri Gandaki->Jagat
Basecamp Date 1974-03-19
Summit Date 1974-05-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 49
Total Days 60
Termination Date 1974-05-18
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7450m due to Mario Dotti's fall on 8 May
High Point (m) 7450
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/03,4200m),C1(5350m),C2(5850m),C3(07/04,6630m),C4(19/04,6370m),C5(23/04,6370m),C6(02/05,7150m),xxx(07/05,7450m)
Route Notes Dotti and Carrara arrived yesterday from Kaierni on Pokhara road. Rest arrive 29-30-31st. Dotti to go from C6 to C5 alone; just starting to take fixed rope when 1 foot into crevasse and he fell; tried to stop himself; not thinking of death, etc; stopped by flat angle; 1st part ice, then snow. Route same as 1959 Japanese on NE Face, Mayer - 18 May 74 Bonicelli's report: Wall very hard to climb, such hard ice - mixed; at least 4 men in front and to get another man properly acclimatized in C6 take 6 days and not enough cooking gas for this. So on 12th would have had to cancel anyway. Calegari, Rota, Bianchetti, Dotti team able to get 7450m where found small piece nylon rope left by Japanese 1959. Upper part reached by top and passed this, but could not continue without replenishing supplies of climbing equipment. Returned to C6 at about 7200m. From C3, leader can see upper part of route. 8:30 am 8 May could see men coming down quickly instead of considered it almost a miracle that the author of such a flight could be not only alive but also able to talk by radio. Sherpas carrying him to C4 and Bonicelli went to C4 to meet. From C4 Dotti himself walked with some suppport to BC on 10 May and 11 May. Dotti asked expedition to continue of going up. At 11 am had walkie-talkie with C4 and Mr Rota in C5 came on radio and says Dotti from C6 had fallen: 30m in air and 300m slide and he reached almost to C5. Dotti now came on air from C5 and just to hear his voice and had such emotion that just to see where he flew and fell. Climb but Bonicelli decided to discontinue. 10 May from C4 to C3 and 11 May from C3 to BC (10 May snow ) Arrive KTM 27 - May says Bonicelli 12 May. Dotti apparently no bones broken, bruises all over. Wall such hard ice requires expert climbers and good weather. Dotti reached South Col with Manganoni. MP Khanal, MFA - 17 May 74 Abandoned: accident Mario (Dotti) 25 Baisak = 8 May from 7100m, slipped 150m almost to 6950m. Not seriously injured; spinal injury, slowly recovering. Had reached 7450m and were satisfied with achievement; 50m above Japanese in 1959. Leave BC Mon 20 Monday. Khanal, MFA - 29 March 74 BC near Surung Khola 19 March (no altitude). Khanal, MFA - 8 March 74 Himalchuli expedition left Trisuli Bazaar 4 March. Dr. Bonicelli - 19 Feb 74 Bonicelli and 2 arrive 18 Feb 8 more after 5 days 24 Feb Go to Trisuli Bazaar and thence Buri Gandaki Climb: Chhulung Khola, East Face, attempted by Japanese in 1959. (Japanese 1960 - NW Face).
Accidents Dotti fell apparently no bones broken, bruises all over
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444554
Year 1974
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Annibalo Bonicelli M - Italy Leader/Exp Doctor Bergamo, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Attilio Bianchetti M 1945 Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Alpine guide & ski Instructor Details Other expeditions
Nino Calegari M - Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Chemical engineer & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrea Farina M - Italy Climber Ponte San Pietro, Lucca, Italy Warehouse manager Details Other expeditions
Armando Pezzotta M - Italy Climber Nembro, Bergamo, Italy Workman Details Other expeditions
Dario Rota M - Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Employee Details Other expeditions
Pietro-Mario Carrara M 1941 Italy Climber Nembro, Bergamo, Italy Merchant Details Other expeditions
Andrea Cattaneo M - Italy Climber Cisano, Bergamo, Italy Profession: 'building undertaker' Details Other expeditions
Antonio Manganoni M - Italy Climber Albino, Bergamo, Italy Workman Details Other expeditions
Gianni Scarpellini M - Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Cine-reporter Details Other expeditions
Mario Dotti M - Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Workman Details Other expeditions
Pemba Rinzi Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME74101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 49:200 (1975) -
HIME74101 HJ Bonicelli, A. & Calegari, N. Himal Chuli, 1974 - 33:53-57 (1973-74) -
HIME74101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Himalchuli - 47:44-45 (Jan 1976) -
HIME74101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520004/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli - - -
HIME74101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/12/himal-chuli-1974/ - - -