Hungchhi | 2006 N Face-NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Hungchhi in 2006 via N Face-NW Ridge, led by Toshiya Nakajima. Summit reached on 1st November 2006. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5567
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HCHI06301
Peak ID HCHI
Year 2006
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Toshiya Nakajima
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Tingri->Everest BC
Basecamp Date 2006-10-15
Summit Date 2006-11-01
Summit Time 1550
Summit Days 17
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2006-11-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7029
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/10,5140m),ABC(21/10,5800m),C1(24/10,6000m),C2(30/10,6600m),Smt(01/11)
Route Notes Tamotsu Nakamura (by email) - 14 Jun 2007 & 24 Oct 2007 BC at 5140m, same as Qomolangma BC - October 15 ABC at 5800m on moraine in the left bank of glacier - October 21 C1 at 6000m on crevasse zone of sanctuary - October 24 C2 at 6600m on the Northwest Ridge - October 30 T. Nakajima and T. Momose stood atop on November 1 Hungchi From Tibet Side, by Toshiya Nakajima Hungchi, the 7011m peak named Gyuba Tshomotse by Nepali, is a fascinatingly steep peak located at the border ridge of Khumbu massif. It was first climbed in 2003 from Nepalese side by Osaka Eiho Alpine Club (see JAN Vol. 5, May 2004) but still remained unscaled through Tibet side, which tempted me to make another trial on its North Face despite of my first failed attempt in autumn 2003. Thus I led the comeback party consisted of 5 men in 2006 and succeeded in first climb of the new route and the second ascent on Hungchi. The party, including 21 porters, 2 Chinese guides, 400 kg gears and foods, started Qomolungma BC, trudged along east moraine of Rongbuck Glacier and entered into West Rongbuck Glacier. Everything looked quite unchanged in this deserted area, except that there still remained some guide flags set by the 2003 party. We set ABC at the foot of Nup La, and then C1 at the base of Hungchi's north wall. Water flows on the lower glacier basin and deep snow on the upper part hampered us to make smooth progress. 300m fixed rope was required to set for crossing crevasses on the way to C1. Next step was to climb the north wall. 4 days' works needed to go through it. On 1st day, Momose and I waded through deep snow up to the dead-end of the basin from where we started to climb the wall previous time, and found huge ice blocks scattered there. Apparently we were exposed to avalanche risks, therefore we needed to look for another line to go up, which should be nothing but a hard direct wall climb although free from collapse of seracs pushed out high above. On 2nd day, Momose and I carried out 200m rope-fixing, in addition to 100m fixed rope set previous day, then on 3rd day Sekiya and I made endless efforts to fix another 180m rope. At last on 4th day, Momose, Sekiya and I finished tough negotiation to go through the wall while extending fixed-rope another 100m, and then pitched C2 on the Northwest Ridge. On the following day, Momose and I left C2 for a summit bout. The Northwest Ridge was like a wide staircase. In order to go up each step of the stairs you had to traverse to its right-side edge (i.e., windward Nepal side), which meant to repeat time-consuming big detours. Clear sky seen in the morning gradually disappeared and then it turned into a harsh blizzard. Strong wind hastily began to scratch out our footprints on the stair field and our return guideposts should be wiped away before long. Perhaps the sooner we retreat the better. So we decided to go down leaving climbing gears there. The day dawned on November 1st. Weather was still bad, we felt quite exhausted with struggle up to this day and had almost run out foods. Only a cup of soup and some coffee were left for our breakfast. Nevertheless we were high-spirited enough to catch our last opportunity. Started at 8:30, we somehow reached the depot, from where we stretched 200m fixed rope, and climbed the summit rock without rope support. At 15:50, I stood on the corniced top and soon Momose followed me. Members: Masakatsu Nakamura (General Director, age: 62) Toshiya Nakajima (Leader, 41) Takayuki Momose (Deputy Leader, 60) Yukihisa Akada (38) Yoshikazu Sekiya (54) Summary Diary: October 15: Qomolungma BC established 18: RC1 19: RC2 20: RC3 21: ABC at the foot of Nup La 24: C1 at the base of the North wall 30: C2 on the Northwest Ridge 31: First summit bout failed November 1: Second summit bout succeeded 2: Returned ABC 4: Returned BC
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456452
Year 2006
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-nw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Toshiya Nakajima M 1964 Japan Leader Shiojiri, Nagano, Japan High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Takayuki Momose M 1946 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yukihisa Akada M 1967 Japan Climber Nagano, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Masakatsu Nakamura M 1944 Japan General Director Yoshida, Nagano, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Yoshikazu Sekiya M 1952 Japan Climber Nagano, Japan - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HCHI06301 AAJ Nakamura, Tamotsu - - 81:432-433 (2007) -
HCHI06301 JAN Nakajima, Toshiya Hungchi from Tibet Side - New Route - 9:24-26 (May 2008) -
HCHI06301 HJ Nakajima, Toshiya Hungchi from the Tibetan Side - 64:230-232 (2008) -
HCHI06301 JAC Nakajima, Toshiya Hungchi from Tibet Side - New Route - 103:A30-31 (2008) -
HCHI06301 JAC Nakajima, Toshiya Hungchi from Tibet Side - New Route - 103:30-39 (2008) -
HCHI06301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200743202/Asia-Tibet-Himalaya-Cho-Oyu-Southwest-Face-to-West-Ridge-Partial-New-Route - - -
HCHI06301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/64/20/expeditions-and-notes-64/ - - -
HCHI06301 - - http://jac.or.jp/english/images/vol9/jan-vol9-24-26.pdf - - -