Hungchhi | 2003 S Face-SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Hungchhi in 2003 via S Face-SW Ridge, led by Takashi Shiro. Summit reached on 19th April 2003. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4322
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HCHI03102
Peak ID HCHI
Year 2003
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Takashi Shiro
Sponsor Osaka Eiho Alpine Club Hungchi Expedition 2003
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Namche->Gokyo->Ngojumba Glacier
Basecamp Date 2003-04-01
Summit Date 2003-04-19
Summit Time 1210
Summit Days 18
Total Days 20
Termination Date 2003-04-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7029
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 4300
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/04,5000m),ABC(03/04,5200m),C1(08/04,6000m),C2(12/04,6300m),C3(17/04,6600m),Smt(19/04)
Route Notes Ropes fixed by this team: Over snow and ice Over rock (thicken) ABC-C1 1000m 150m C1-C2 1400m - C2-C3 1000m - C2-top 400m 350m Totals 3800m 500m Koreans fixed 2000m ropes and used Japanese elsewhere on their route ABC to ridge and then in places along route. Climb difficult "looks so easy, but many difficulties" on rock and ice sections and each season different. Summiters left Japanese and Nepalese flags on summit buried in snow.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455112
Year 2003
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-sw ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Katsuo Fukuhara M 1967 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Helicopter maintenance engineer Details Other expeditions
Tadashi Morita M 1950 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kanji Shimizu M 1943 Japan Climber Hashimoto, Wakayama, Japan Bridge construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Takashi Shiro M 1937 Japan Leader Osaka, Japan President of company inspecting pressurized-gas plants Details Other expeditions
Tul Bahadur Tamang M 1966 Nepal Sirdar Deusa, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ram Kaji Tamang M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Durga Rai M - Nepal H-A Worker/Cook Basha, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Hit Bahadur (Hitman) Tamang M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HCHI03102 HIGH - - - 256:73-74 (Mar 2004) -
HCHI03102 JAN Osaka Eiho Alpine Club First Ascent of Hungchi 7036m - 5:5-9 (May 2004) -
HCHI03102 AAJ Shiro, Takashi - - 78:400-401 (2004) -
HCHI03102 HJ Takashi, Shiro The First Ascent of Hungchi - 60:177-182 (2004) -
HCHI03102 JAN Osaka Eiho Alpine Club First Ascent of Hungchi 7036m - 16:112-118 (2015) -
HCHI03102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200440000/Asia-Nepal-Malahangur-Himal-Khumbu-Hungchi-First-Ascent - - -
HCHI03102 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/60/18/expeditions-and-notes-60/ - - -
HCHI03102 - - http://jac.or.jp/english/images/vol5/jan-vol5-5-9.pdf - - -