Gyajikang | 1994 W side from NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gyajikang in 1994 via W side from NW Ridge, led by Gupta Bahadur Rana, Taichi Fujimatsu. Summit reached on 7th October 1994. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1354
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GYAJ94301
Peak ID GYAJ
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W side from NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Gupta Bahadur Rana, Taichi Fujimatsu
Sponsor Japan Shinshu University & Nepal Police Joint Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st-3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Marshyangdi River->Markhola->Phu Khola->BC
Basecamp Date 1994-09-19
Summit Date 1994-10-07
Summit Time 0740
Summit Days 18
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1994-10-19
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7074
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1550
Total Members 15
Summit Members 13
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/09,4800m),C1(24/09,5350m),C2(30/09,6100m),C3(06/10,6600m),Smt(07,10,14/10)
Route Notes BC by side of glacier C2 northeast of NW Ridge C3 between NW Ridge and small north ridge below West Ridge. 1st summit: 6 men left C3 6 am and reached W Summit at 7:40 am and all to East Summit at 8:55 am because from West Summit the east one appeared higher; returned to C3 at 7 am, W Summit 8:45 am; 3 Japanese and Nuru went also to E Summit at 10:00 am and BC 4:30 pm. 2nd summit party of 6 left C3 at 7:30 am, (2 Nepali members not in "so good condition" and not necessary to go to lower peak); decended to BC. T Nakamura tried to measure 2 peaks alt. with handy level and found no difference. 3rd summit team left C3 8 am and on peak 10 am; none to East Peak and down to BC. BC to C1 rope fixed for crossing icefall; rock climbing from BC to C1. C1 to C2 750m rope fixed at steep snow slope and crevasses (if snowed, might be avalanches). C2 to C3 150m fixed to go around big crevasse. Route was "little difficult" says Tanabe for inexperienced younger members who needed fixed ropes. C3 to West Summit gentle snow slope and "could play football game on top" says Nakamura - gentle up and down slopes to East Summit.
Accidents Nothing
Achievement -
Agency Nepal Police
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451987
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w side from nw ridge

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Taichi Fujimatsu M 1950 Japan Leader Ueda, Nagano, Japan Teacher Details Other expeditions
Toshisada Hasegawa M 1967 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Weather forecaster Details Other expeditions
Touru Hashiguchi M 1970 Japan Climber Infujisawa, Kanagawa, Japan Fisheries student Details Other expeditions
Yutaro Ito M 1975 Japan Climber Fujioka, Gunma, Japan Forestry student Details Other expeditions
Yousuke Kokubo M 1967 Japan Climber Moriguchi, Osaka, Japan Civil construction Details Other expeditions
Kazuya Mino M 1964 Japan Climber Kamiina-gun, Nagano, Japan Logging company staff Details Other expeditions
Takashi Nakamura M 1966 Japan Climber Siojiri, Nagano, Japan Newspaper writer Details Other expeditions
Yukinori Nakamura M 1966 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Owner of clothing sales company Details Other expeditions
Osamu Tanabe M 1961 Japan Climber Nagoya, Aichi, Japan Trains alpine guides Details Other expeditions
Yasuhiro Yamashita M 1947 Japan Deputy Gen Ldr Kochi-shi, Kochi, Japan School principal Details Other expeditions
Gita Bahadur Joshi M 1958 Nepal Climber Taluwa, Okhaldhunga Police officer Details Other expeditions
Sher Bahadur Karki M 1952 Nepal Climber Dhik Ngawali, Baitadi, Mahakali Deputy Superintendent of Police Details Other expeditions
Padam Bahadur Khatri M - Nepal Climber Bocho, Dolakha Police officer Details Other expeditions
Gupta Bahadur Rana M 1945 Nepal Leader Kathmandu Deputy Superintendent of Police in police academy Details Other expeditions
Ram Kaji Sivakoti M - Nepal Climber Sunkhani, Dolakha Police officer Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tshering/Tshiring Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Dambar Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal H-A Worker Mukli, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nuru Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Moti Lal Gurung M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GYAJ94301 AAJ Fujimatsu, Taichi - - 69:251 (1995) -
GYAJ94301 HIGH - - - 151:12 (Jun 1995) -
GYAJ94301 IWA - - - :239 (1995) -
GYAJ94301 IWA - - - :71-72 (1995) -
GYAJ94301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199525102/Asia-Nepal-Gyajikang - - -
GYAJ94301 - Shinsyu University Nepal Himalaya '94 Nagano, Japan - -