Gyajikang | 1994 W side from NW Ridge
A Japan expedition to Gyajikang in 1994 via W side from NW Ridge, led by Gupta Bahadur Rana, Taichi Fujimatsu. Summit reached on 7th October 1994. 19 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1354 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GYAJ94301 |
| Peak ID | GYAJ |
| Year | 1994 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W side from NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Gupta Bahadur Rana, Taichi Fujimatsu |
| Sponsor | Japan Shinshu University & Nepal Police Joint Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st-3rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Nepal |
| Approach | Marshyangdi River->Markhola->Phu Khola->BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1994-09-19 |
| Summit Date | 1994-10-07 |
| Summit Time | 0740 |
| Summit Days | 18 |
| Total Days | 30 |
| Termination Date | 1994-10-19 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7074 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1550 |
| Total Members | 15 |
| Summit Members | 13 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 4 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(19/09,4800m),C1(24/09,5350m),C2(30/09,6100m),C3(06/10,6600m),Smt(07,10,14/10) |
| Route Notes | BC by side of glacier C2 northeast of NW Ridge C3 between NW Ridge and small north ridge below West Ridge. 1st summit: 6 men left C3 6 am and reached W Summit at 7:40 am and all to East Summit at 8:55 am because from West Summit the east one appeared higher; returned to C3 at 7 am, W Summit 8:45 am; 3 Japanese and Nuru went also to E Summit at 10:00 am and BC 4:30 pm. 2nd summit party of 6 left C3 at 7:30 am, (2 Nepali members not in "so good condition" and not necessary to go to lower peak); decended to BC. T Nakamura tried to measure 2 peaks alt. with handy level and found no difference. 3rd summit team left C3 8 am and on peak 10 am; none to East Peak and down to BC. BC to C1 rope fixed for crossing icefall; rock climbing from BC to C1. C1 to C2 750m rope fixed at steep snow slope and crevasses (if snowed, might be avalanches). C2 to C3 150m fixed to go around big crevasse. Route was "little difficult" says Tanabe for inexperienced younger members who needed fixed ropes. C3 to West Summit gentle snow slope and "could play football game on top" says Nakamura - gentle up and down slopes to East Summit. |
| Accidents | Nothing |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Nepal Police |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451987 |
| Year | 1994 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w side from nw ridge |
Members
19 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Taichi Fujimatsu | M | 1950 | Japan | Leader | Ueda, Nagano, Japan | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshisada Hasegawa | M | 1967 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Weather forecaster | Details Other expeditions |
| Touru Hashiguchi | M | 1970 | Japan | Climber | Infujisawa, Kanagawa, Japan | Fisheries student | Details Other expeditions |
| Yutaro Ito | M | 1975 | Japan | Climber | Fujioka, Gunma, Japan | Forestry student | Details Other expeditions |
| Yousuke Kokubo | M | 1967 | Japan | Climber | Moriguchi, Osaka, Japan | Civil construction | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuya Mino | M | 1964 | Japan | Climber | Kamiina-gun, Nagano, Japan | Logging company staff | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Nakamura | M | 1966 | Japan | Climber | Siojiri, Nagano, Japan | Newspaper writer | Details Other expeditions |
| Yukinori Nakamura | M | 1966 | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Owner of clothing sales company | Details Other expeditions |
| Osamu Tanabe | M | 1961 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Aichi, Japan | Trains alpine guides | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuhiro Yamashita | M | 1947 | Japan | Deputy Gen Ldr | Kochi-shi, Kochi, Japan | School principal | Details Other expeditions |
| Gita Bahadur Joshi | M | 1958 | Nepal | Climber | Taluwa, Okhaldhunga | Police officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Sher Bahadur Karki | M | 1952 | Nepal | Climber | Dhik Ngawali, Baitadi, Mahakali | Deputy Superintendent of Police | Details Other expeditions |
| Padam Bahadur Khatri | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Bocho, Dolakha | Police officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Gupta Bahadur Rana | M | 1945 | Nepal | Leader | Kathmandu | Deputy Superintendent of Police in police academy | Details Other expeditions |
| Ram Kaji Sivakoti | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Sunkhani, Dolakha | Police officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Tshering/Tshiring Sherpa | M | 1963 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dambar Bahadur Gurung | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Mukli, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nuru Sherpa | M | 1955 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Moti Lal Gurung | M | 1950 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sedua, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GYAJ94301 | AAJ | Fujimatsu, Taichi | - | - | 69:251 (1995) | - |
| GYAJ94301 | HIGH | - | - | - | 151:12 (Jun 1995) | - |
| GYAJ94301 | IWA | - | - | - | :239 (1995) | - |
| GYAJ94301 | IWA | - | - | - | :71-72 (1995) | - |
| GYAJ94301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199525102/Asia-Nepal-Gyajikang | - | - | - |
| GYAJ94301 | - | Shinsyu University | Nepal Himalaya '94 | Nagano, Japan | - | - |