Gyajikang | 2017 W Ridge (new line)

A Italy expedition to Gyajikang in 2017 via W Ridge (new line), led by Luca Montanari. Summit reached on 25th October 2017. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	9663
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	GYAJ17302
Peak ID	GYAJ
Year	2017
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	W Ridge (new line)
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Italy
Leaders	Luca Montanari
Sponsor	Italian Gyajikang Expedition 2017
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	11th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Flight to Jomsom, trekking via Thorung La->Manang->Koto->Phu
Basecamp Date	2017-10-14
Summit Date	2017-10-25
Summit Time	0815
Summit Days	11
Total Days	13
Termination Date	2017-10-27
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	7074
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	2
Fixed Rope (m)	140
Total Members	2
Summit Members	2
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	2
Summit Hired	2
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	True
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(14/10,4900m),C1(18/10,5400m),C2(24/10,5800m),Smt(25/10)
Route Notes	BC 14/10 4900m at "new Himlung BC" opposite of "old Himlung BC", on southern side of Pangri-Glacier C1 18/10 5400m at rocks near glacier C2 24/10 5800m at very last rocks before glacier Smt 25/10 Montanari, Sartori, Nima Sherpa and Mingma Temba Sherpa Team had planned climbing via the classic route but studying conditions and the route, the normal route which was taken by Czech team a few days before was deemed too dangerous because of large hanging seracs and avalanche danger. Instead they decided to ascend on the left side of the glacier, east of normal route. The new route had a lot of crevasses, but they were well visible and easy to negotiate. Both routes merged again before the summit. Crux section was immediately after C2, steep terrain (60 degrees). Glacier shrank a lot, their C2 was located on rocks, where their map showed only glacier. Summit push started from C2 at 1:15 am. They quickly climbed the crux section, a steep ridge leading to a labyrinth of crevasses. They negotiated the crevasses, then reached a plateau at approx 6200m. From the plateau they had to ascend another slope which led to the summit ridge. Reaching summit ridge the wind got stronger, so strong they were struggling to keep their balance. Mingma reached the summit first, shortly followed by the others at 8:15 am. They stayed on the top for 10 minutes, very windy and cold, but clear views. Got down to C2 at 11:30 am, had some rest at C2, then on to C1 (arrival 3 pm). Back to BC on 26 Pct at 10:30 am. Trekked back to Jagat via Koto. They believe the majority of future expeditions will choose their new route, since objective dangers seem smaller than on classic route. Team left BC on 27 Oct. Route: on left side of glacier to West Ridge (east of normal route), then West Ridge to summit. Oxygen: Taken to BC for medical purpose, not used Fixed rope: 30-40m just below C1, 100m just after C2 for crux section (approx. 5900-6000m) Sherpas: Mingma Temba Sherpa, from Makalu, 36 years Nima Sherpa, from Makalu, 21 years
Accidents	-
Achievement	1st Italian ascent
Agency	Satori Adventures (Campobase Treks pmt)
Commercial Route	False
Standard Route	False
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2463669
Year	2017
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	w ridge (new line)

Members

Field	Value
ID	70543
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAJ17302
Member ID	01
Peak ID	GYAJ
Year	2017
Season	3
First Name	Luca Renato
Last Name	Montanari
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1981
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Leader
Residence	Caprino, Verona, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7074
Summit Date 1	2017-10-25
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	0815
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	11
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2442598
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	luca renato montanari
Year of Birth	1981
Year	2017
Age at Expedition	36
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	70544
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAJ17302
Member ID	02
Peak ID	GYAJ
Year	2017
Season	3
First Name	Giorgio Valerio Egioio
Last Name	Sartori
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1951
Calculated Age	66
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Milano, Italy
Occupation	Retired IBM manager, now freelance strategy managing advisor
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7074
Summit Date 1	2017-10-25
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	0815
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2431833
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	giorgio valerio egioio sartori
Year of Birth	1951
Year	2017
Age at Expedition	66
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	70545
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAJ17302
Member ID	03
Peak ID	GYAJ
Year	2017
Season	3
First Name	Mingma Temba
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1980
Calculated Age	37
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7074
Summit Date 1	2017-10-25
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	0815
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	11
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2442132
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mingma temba sherpa
Year of Birth	1980
Year	2017
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	70546
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAJ17302
Member ID	04
Peak ID	GYAJ
Year	2017
Season	3
First Name	Nima
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1995
Calculated Age	22
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Makalu-4, Makalu-Barun
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7074
Summit Date 1	2017-10-25
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	0815
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	11
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2447781
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	nima sherpa
Year of Birth	1995
Year	2017
Age at Expedition	22
Role	Hired

4 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Luca Renato Montanari	M	1981	Italy	Leader	Caprino, Verona, Italy	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Valerio Egioio Sartori	M	1951	Italy	Climber	Milano, Italy	Retired IBM manager, now freelance strategy managing advisor	Details Other expeditions
Mingma Temba Sherpa	M	1980	Nepal	H-A Worker	Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun	-	Details Other expeditions
Nima Sherpa	M	1995	Nepal	H-A Worker	Makalu-4, Makalu-Barun	-	Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.