Gyachung Kang | 1998 SE Pillar-E Ridge

A Poland expedition to Gyachung Kang in 1998 via SE Pillar-E Ridge, led by Ludwik Wilczynski. Summit reached on 3rd October 1998. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3188
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GYAC98301
Peak ID GYAC
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Pillar-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Ludwik Wilczynski
Sponsor Polish Himalaya Gyachung Kang Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-09-08
Summit Date 1998-10-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 25
Total Days 33
Termination Date 1998-10-11
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to route too difficult
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/09,5200m),C1(12/09,5400m),C2(20/09,5900m),C3(23/09,6300m),xxx(03/10,7000m)
Route Notes BC at Ngozumba Glacier C1 at left side of Ngozumba Glacier on rock C2 near large rock in 2nd Icefall C3 near foot of SE Pillar. Route too difficult for us. Glacier very long with 3 icefalls. C1 on top of first icefall; from BC to C1 2 km by zigzag line. 2nd icefall very dangerous with big crevasses. C3 on plateau at foot of pillar, SE Pillar which wanted to climb in new route. After 23 Sept every day for 7-8 days snowfall and stayed BC. When did climb, did so at night because days were too hot and avalanching. At 9:00 am 400m before C3 on 1 Oct avalanche hit Lech Flaczynski and Boguslaw because they were too late, having taken 15 hours to move in deep soft snow, but not hurt. Found C3 tent covered by 1m new snow. Route planned led to peak 7650m on East Ridge and thence westwards along ridge to highest peak; about 2 km from top of pillar to main peak. Could find no place to put tent at about 7000m and now food supplies very low so climb finished. Route is possible but need more and better climbers.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement 1st attempt of S Pillar
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453448
Year 1998
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se pillar-e ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lech Wieslaw Flaczynski M 1948 Poland Climber Grudziadz, Poland German language teacher Details Other expeditions
Dariusz Kopczynski M 1960 Poland Deputy Leader Torun, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Boguslaw Kowalski M 1969 Poland Climber Torun, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Janusz Marzyglinski M 1947 Poland Climber Torun, Poland Electronics-instruments factory manager Details Other expeditions
Jacek Szczurek M 1950 Poland Climber Torun, Poland Photographer Details Other expeditions
Ludwik Wilczynski M 1947 Poland Leader Torun, Poland Owner of firm consulting on trading Details Other expeditions
Wojciech Wiwatowski M 1970 Poland Climber Torun, Poland Shop owner Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GYAC98301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 73:369 (1999) -
GYAC98301 HIGH - - - 198:39 (May 1999) -
GYAC98301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199936903/Asia-Nepal-Gyachung-Kang-Attempts - - -