Gyachung Kang | 1988 SW Face-SW Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Gyachung Kang in 1988 via SW Face-SW Ridge, led by Yang Haw-Seok. Summit reached on 24th October 1988. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 865
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GYAC88302
Peak ID GYAC
Year 1988
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Yang Haw-Seok
Sponsor 1988 Korean Nepalese Himalaya Gyachung Kang Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-10-03
Summit Date 1988-10-24
Summit Time 1255
Summit Days 21
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7861
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 3000
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/10,5300m),C1(07/10,5900m),C2(12/10,6400m),C3(17/10,6900m),C4(22/10,7650m),Smt(24/10)
Route Notes BC as same as Japanese near lake. Route changed slightly from plan because Japanese already climbing this planned route. Very difficult above C3; very steep ice face with no proper space for C4. Fixed 3000m total, 2000m from C3 to top. Had planned summit push day after C4 established but too much difficult ice step-cutting. No other summit bid after 24th because supplies running out. Route between Japanese 1964 spring & French 1986 spring expeditions. Expedition Report/Gyachung Kang (7952m) by Hwa-Seok Yang Taken from Sanak in winter 1988 Daejeon Seil Club, the first summiter to Ngojumba Kang in 1982, again made a great achievement on SW Face of Gyachung Kang this time. On Oct 2nd they advanced to C2 for 5 days and on 12th, C2 was secured at the foot of the Gyachung Kang Face. Suddenly on Oct 17th, they saw a unfortunate Japanese climber falling down in his way of returning from SW Ridge leaving to the summit just 50m and they continued climbing with more indomitable spirit, so that they overcame the difficult route to fix the ropes. Especially toward C4, they had to climb up almost vertical face mixed with rock, snow and ice, which needed more time than expected. Consequently they could not find any suitable place for their camp after dark, and it was over 8:00 pm when they barely managed to sleep just in one tent blocked with ice. It was Oct 22. C4 was established at 7500m the next day. On Oct 24th, member Yeon Heon-Mo and Shim Yeom-Bo started for the summit with Ang Rinji and Ang Dorji. After overcoming the mixed route with ice and snow (over 100m long), they arrived at the point connected from West Ridge to the summit. Due to very steep rock slope just below the summit, they had to make a detour of long and exhausted advances in the direction of Tibet, and after 5 hours and 20 minutes of struggles they finally reached the summit.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st autumn ascent in 1st Korean attempt
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449807
Year 1988
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-sw ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Doo-Hwan Jeong M 1958 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Hye-Ja Lee F 1960 S Korea Exp Doctor Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Physician Details Other expeditions
Byung-Nam Min M 1959 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Sports equipment shop owner Details Other expeditions
Kwang-Seok Oh M 1956 S Korea Deputy Leader Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Yeom-Bo Shim M 1961 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Young-Seok Sin M 1962 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Haw-Seok Yang M 1949 S Korea Leader Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Shoe shop owner Details Other expeditions
Heon-Mo Yeon M 1963 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea University student of business administration Details Other expeditions
Ang Rinji Sherpa M - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GYAC88302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 63:207 (1989) -
GYAC88302 MM - - - 125:12 (Jan 1989) -
GYAC88302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198920702/Asia-Nepal-Gyachung-Kang - - -