Gyachung Kang | 1988 SW Ridge-SW Pillar

A Japan expedition to Gyachung Kang in 1988 via SW Ridge-SW Pillar, led by Mitsuo Uematsu. Summit reached on 17th October 1988. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	866
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	SW Ridge-SW Pillar
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Japan
Leaders	Mitsuo Uematsu
Sponsor	Fukuoka University Alpine Club Gyachung Kang Expedition 1988
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1988-09-23
Summit Date	1988-10-17
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	24
Total Days	0
Termination Date	-
Termination Reason	6
Termination Notes	Abandoned at 7800m due to Baba's fatal fall
High Point (m)	7800
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	4
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	8
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	1
Total Hired	6
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(23/09,5300m),C1(24/09,6000m),C2(29/09,6300m),C3(11/10,6800m),C4(16/10,7300m),xxx(17/10,7800m)
Route Notes	BC on north side of Ngozumba Kang Glacier (same as Koreans). Joined French Spring 1986 route only at 7200m because of crevasse below, between C1 and C2. From C2 to C4 very steep and required fixed rope entire distance. 17th Oct summit attack by Ang Phurba, Baba and Kikuchi: started from C4 at 6 am; to 7800m easy climb because plenty of snow on rock and reached there at 12:15 pm; decided they should turned down because tired and Kikuchi planned to join 2nd attack party from C4 next day. Ang Phurba quickly reached C4 (1-1/2 hour). Baba probably reached traverse from C4, but now so cloudy no one there could see him; no fixed rope needed in easy couloir above C4. Kikuchi reached C4 10 mins after Baba was there and fell. 2nd attack party's Sherpas saw Baba falling below C4; he stopped falling near C2 near crevasse and was dead of broken head, etc. Now climbing stopped. Tourism Ministry, 23 Oct 88 Mr Sinichi Baba, 1960, staff of Hare Co., Kiami Kokura Mihaki Saga of Japan, a climbing member of 11-member Nepal-Japan expedtion to Gyachungkang (7952m) reported to have slipped to death from 7300m on 17 October. He had started to climb to summit at 6 am that day but after reaching 7800m, turned back being very late and reaching near C4 at 7300m. Mr Baba slipped it is reported. Also reported, his body found near C2 (6300m) and his last rites completed there. Expedition being abandoned due to this accident. Leader of the expedition is Mr Uematsu Mitsuo, 1936, Fukuoka Hospital secretary.
Accidents	Baba fatal fall
Achievement	-
Agency	Sagarmatha
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2449800
Year	1988
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	sw ridge-sw pillar

Members

Field	Value
ID	14163
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
First Name	Shinichi
Last Name	Baba
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1960
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Kiyama, Saga, Japan
Occupation	Salesman
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1988-10-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	1988-10-17
Death Time	1700
Death Type	4
Death Height (m)	7300
Death Class	5
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	900m fall from C4 site after returning in late afternoon (estimate 4-6 pm)
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1960-1988) Died 17 Oct 1988 on Gyachung Kang from fall
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	7
HCN	0
Checksum	2434809
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	1
Name (lowercase)	shinichi baba
Year of Birth	1960
Year	1988
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	14164
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
First Name	Hiroshi
Last Name	Hanada
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1960
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan
Occupation	Electrical engineer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2434984
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	hiroshi hanada
Year of Birth	1960
Year	1988
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	14165
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
First Name	Mamoru
Last Name	Kikuchi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1955
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climbing Leader
Residence	Shimomashi-ku, Kumamato, Japan
Occupation	Civil engineer
Leader	False
Deputy	True
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1988-10-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	7
HCN	0
Checksum	2433226
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mamoru kikuchi
Year of Birth	1955
Year	1988
Age at Expedition	33
Role	Deputy

Field	Value
ID	14166
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Member ID	05
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
First Name	Hiroaki
Last Name	Shigmori
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1965
Calculated Age	23
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan
Occupation	Salesman
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2436888
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	hiroaki shigmori
Year of Birth	1965
Year	1988
Age at Expedition	23
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	14167
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Member ID	06
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
First Name	Michihiko
Last Name	Shima
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1957
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Amagasaki, Hyogo, Japan
Occupation	Electrical engineer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2434161
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	michihiko shima
Year of Birth	1957
Year	1988
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	14168
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Member ID	07
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
First Name	Shigenobu
Last Name	Suematsu
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1957
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan
Occupation	Kimono salesman
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2434070
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	shigenobu suematsu
Year of Birth	1957
Year	1988
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	14169
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Member ID	08
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
First Name	Toshiaki
Last Name	Takasu
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1942
Calculated Age	45
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Exp Doctor
Residence	Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan
Occupation	Pharmacologist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2428687
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	toshiaki takasu
Year of Birth	1942
Year	1988
Age at Expedition	46
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	14170
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
First Name	Mitsuo
Last Name	Uematsu
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1936
Calculated Age	51
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Leader
Residence	Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan
Occupation	Official of private hospital (owned by his brother)
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2426483
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mitsuo uematsu
Year of Birth	1936
Year	1988
Age at Expedition	52
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	14171
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Member ID	09
Peak ID	GYAC
Year	1988
Season	3
First Name	Ang Phurba
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1988-10-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	7
HCN	0
Checksum	-75
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ang phurba sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1988
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Shinichi Baba	M	1960	Japan	Climber	Kiyama, Saga, Japan	Salesman	Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Hanada	M	1960	Japan	Climber	Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan	Electrical engineer	Details Other expeditions
Mamoru Kikuchi	M	1955	Japan	Climbing Leader	Shimomashi-ku, Kumamato, Japan	Civil engineer	Details Other expeditions
Hiroaki Shigmori	M	1965	Japan	Climber	Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan	Salesman	Details Other expeditions
Michihiko Shima	M	1957	Japan	Climber	Amagasaki, Hyogo, Japan	Electrical engineer	Details Other expeditions
Shigenobu Suematsu	M	1957	Japan	Climber	Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan	Kimono salesman	Details Other expeditions
Toshiaki Takasu	M	1942	Japan	Exp Doctor	Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan	Pharmacologist	Details Other expeditions
Mitsuo Uematsu	M	1936	Japan	Leader	Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan	Official of private hospital (owned by his brother)	Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	H-A Worker	-	-	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	592
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Reference ID	01
Year	1988
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Guha, Kamal K.
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1989
Language	-
Citation	63:207 (1989)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4446
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Reference ID	02
Year	1988
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1989
Language	-
Citation	125:12 (Jan 1989)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	6711
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Reference ID	03
Year	1988
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1989
Language	Japanese w/English summary
Citation	:274 (1989)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	6864
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Reference ID	04
Year	1988
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1989
Language	Japanese
Citation	:70-71 (1989)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12081
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	GYAC88301
Reference ID	05
Year	1988
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198920701/Asia-Nepal-Gyachung-Kang-Tragedy
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
GYAC88301	AAJ	Guha, Kamal K.	-	-	63:207 (1989)	-
GYAC88301	MM	-	-	-	125:12 (Jan 1989)	-
GYAC88301	IWA	-	-	-	:274 (1989)	-
GYAC88301	IWA	-	-	-	:70-71 (1989)	-
GYAC88301	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198920701/Asia-Nepal-Gyachung-Kang-Tragedy	-	-	-