Gyachung Kang | 1986 S Face-SW Pillar

A Spain expedition to Gyachung Kang in 1986 via S Face-SW Pillar, led by Jose Luis Zuloaga. Summit reached on 27th October 1986. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 915
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GYAC86301
Peak ID GYAC
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jose Luis Zuloaga
Sponsor Basque Gyachung Kang Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-26
Summit Date 1986-10-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 31
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1986-11-01
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7100m due to wind
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/09,5100m),C1(01/10,5700m),C2(19/10,6200m),Biv1(26/10,6800m),Biv2(27/10,7100m),xxx(27/10,7100m)
Route Notes BC on west side of Lungsampa on Ngojumba Glaciers junction southeast of Dyazumpa Biv on South Face Biv on South Face High point at 2nd bivouac. Really 3 people climbing from beginning through out climb with some arriving at BC two weeks later than others. Problem of climb was the glacier and finding route across it through lot of snow and above it which of 2 icefalls could be surmounted (tried first western icefall, then climbed eastern one). Hence 18 days to make C2 after C1. From C2 26th Oct 5 members started up in alpine-style, but same day 2 members [Zabelata and Matous] retreated [from 6700m] while other three bivouacked at 6800m. Next day to 7100m and that night very strong winds (were hanging from ropes) so down. 27th 3 members to 6800m and 28th down. All in BC 29th and left BC 1st Nov. On face snow was in very good condition. Planned to make a third bivouac at about 7300m atop difficult chimney on SW Pillar and go to summit from there.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st US & Spanish attempts
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449077
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-sw pillar

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hooman Nmi Aprin M 1946 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming Surveyor & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Enrique-Julian (Kike) De Pablo Benito M 1952 Spain Climber Durango, Vizcaya, Spain Unemployed biologist Details Other expeditions
Edward L. Farrar M 1951 USA Leader Wenatchee, Washington Orthopedic surgeon Details Other expeditions
Fernando Garatea Bengoechea M 1955 Spain Climber Ororbia, Navarra, Spain Student of ship navigation Details Other expeditions
Robin MacDonald Houston M 1948 USA Exp Doctor Kathmandu & Burlington, Vermont Physician (Peace Corps) Details Other expeditions
Ronald A. (Ron) Matous M 1952 USA Climber Kelly, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michael O. (Mike) Ruckhaus M 1953 USA Climber Fairbanks, Alaska Engineer Details Other expeditions
Martin Zabaleta Larburu M 1949 Spain Climber Oakland, California Tour guide & carpenter Details Other expeditions
Anxton Zamarbide Areta M 1959 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Salesman, mountaineering equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Jose Luis Zuloaga M 1954 Spain Leader Bilbao, Vizcaya, Spain Physics teacher Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GYAC86301 AAJ Zuloaga, Jose Luis - - 61:239-240 (1987) -
GYAC86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723902/Asia-Nepal-Gyachungkang-South-Face-Attempt - - -