Gyachung Kang | 1986 S Face-SW Pillar
A France expedition to Gyachung Kang in 1986 via S Face-SW Pillar, led by Jean-Claude Marmier. Summit reached on 12th May 1986. 14 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 944 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GYAC86101 |
| Peak ID | GYAC |
| Year | 1986 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face-SW Pillar |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Jean-Claude Marmier |
| Sponsor | France-Nepali Joint Expedition to Gyachung Kang |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 3rd-5th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Nepal |
| Approach | Jiri->Gokyo Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1986-04-21 |
| Summit Date | 1986-05-12 |
| Summit Time | 1630 |
| Summit Days | 21 |
| Total Days | 24 |
| Termination Date | 1986-05-15 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7861 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 13 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(21/04,5050m),C1(28/04,5200m),C2(29/04,6250m),C3(07/05,7150m),Smt(12-13,15/05) |
| Route Notes | BC south of near junction of Lungsampa and Ngojumpa Glacier C1 just north of rock spur's point 5695m C2 northeast of point 6280m and northwest of point 6406m C3 at bottom of rock chimney. Very dangerous icefall above C1. Long route (5 hrs) from C1 to C2, then bergschrund at 6500m. Above C3 2 difficult chimneys and just below summit difficult climbing on bare rock. Route safe above icefall: no avalanche danger all route is steep (60 degrees to vertical). One party attempted summit on 11th May but very cold strong wind and gave up 100m below summit (were Flematti and Royer). Next days not so cold and wind not so strong although some fog and light snowfall. One Nepalese member Khatri, climbed to C2 once; otherwise 3 Nepali members stayed at BC and asked French why they climbed; had been ordered to go on expedition: did not volunteer. |
| Accidents | One member injured his toe at night; slightly frostbitten fingers of May 11 summit party |
| Achievement | New route, 1st French ascent |
| Agency | Sherpa Trekking Service (STS) |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448909 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s face-sw pillar |
Members
14 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alain Esteve | M | 1952 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army Captain | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert Flematti | M | 1942 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide & helicopter pilot | Details Other expeditions |
| Hubert Giot | M | 1954 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army adjutant | Details Other expeditions |
| Eric Gramond | M | 1962 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Sergeant, infantry | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Claude Marmier | M | 1944 | France | Leader | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army Lieutenant Colonel | Details Other expeditions |
| Frederic Maurel | M | 1958 | France | Exp Doctor | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierre Alain Royer | M | 1953 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army adjutant | Details Other expeditions |
| Daniel Semblanet | M | 1952 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide & instructor (not in Army) | Details Other expeditions |
| Yves Tedeschi | M | 1960 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army Sergeant Major | Details Other expeditions |
| Gerald Tresallet | M | 1960 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Army Sergeant Major | Details Other expeditions |
| Prem Bahadur Khatri | M | 1951 | Nepal | Climber | Galkot, Baglung, Dhaulagiri Zone | Army Major | Details Other expeditions |
| Ramesh Bahadur Shahi | M | 1955 | Nepal | Climber | Dadeldhura District, Mahakali Zone | Army Captain | Details Other expeditions |
| Surendra Singh Thapa | M | 1958 | Nepal | Climber | Bishalnagar, Kathmandu | Army officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kilu Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GYAC86101 | AAJ | Marmier, Jean-Claude | - | - | 61:239 (1987) | - |
| GYAC86101 | HJ | Marmier, Lt. Col. Jean-Claude | Gyachungkang, 1986 | - | 43:10-16 (1985-1986) | - |
| GYAC86101 | MM | - | - | - | 110:10 (Jul 1986) | - |
| GYAC86101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723901/Asia-Nepal-Gyachungkang-South-Face | - | - | - |
| GYAC86101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/4/gyachungkang-1986/ | - | - | - |