Gyachung Kang | 1986 S Face-SW Pillar

A France expedition to Gyachung Kang in 1986 via S Face-SW Pillar, led by Jean-Claude Marmier. Summit reached on 12th May 1986. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 944
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GYAC86101
Peak ID GYAC
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jean-Claude Marmier
Sponsor France-Nepali Joint Expedition to Gyachung Kang
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd-5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Jiri->Gokyo Valley
Basecamp Date 1986-04-21
Summit Date 1986-05-12
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 21
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1986-05-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7861
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/04,5050m),C1(28/04,5200m),C2(29/04,6250m),C3(07/05,7150m),Smt(12-13,15/05)
Route Notes BC south of near junction of Lungsampa and Ngojumpa Glacier C1 just north of rock spur's point 5695m C2 northeast of point 6280m and northwest of point 6406m C3 at bottom of rock chimney. Very dangerous icefall above C1. Long route (5 hrs) from C1 to C2, then bergschrund at 6500m. Above C3 2 difficult chimneys and just below summit difficult climbing on bare rock. Route safe above icefall: no avalanche danger all route is steep (60 degrees to vertical). One party attempted summit on 11th May but very cold strong wind and gave up 100m below summit (were Flematti and Royer). Next days not so cold and wind not so strong although some fog and light snowfall. One Nepalese member Khatri, climbed to C2 once; otherwise 3 Nepali members stayed at BC and asked French why they climbed; had been ordered to go on expedition: did not volunteer.
Accidents One member injured his toe at night; slightly frostbitten fingers of May 11 summit party
Achievement New route, 1st French ascent
Agency Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448909
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-sw pillar

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alain Esteve M 1952 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Captain Details Other expeditions
Robert Flematti M 1942 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & helicopter pilot Details Other expeditions
Hubert Giot M 1954 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army adjutant Details Other expeditions
Eric Gramond M 1962 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Sergeant, infantry Details Other expeditions
Jean-Claude Marmier M 1944 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Lieutenant Colonel Details Other expeditions
Frederic Maurel M 1958 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army physician Details Other expeditions
Pierre Alain Royer M 1953 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army adjutant Details Other expeditions
Daniel Semblanet M 1952 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & instructor (not in Army) Details Other expeditions
Yves Tedeschi M 1960 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Sergeant Major Details Other expeditions
Gerald Tresallet M 1960 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Sergeant Major Details Other expeditions
Prem Bahadur Khatri M 1951 Nepal Climber Galkot, Baglung, Dhaulagiri Zone Army Major Details Other expeditions
Ramesh Bahadur Shahi M 1955 Nepal Climber Dadeldhura District, Mahakali Zone Army Captain Details Other expeditions
Surendra Singh Thapa M 1958 Nepal Climber Bishalnagar, Kathmandu Army officer Details Other expeditions
Kilu Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GYAC86101 AAJ Marmier, Jean-Claude - - 61:239 (1987) -
GYAC86101 HJ Marmier, Lt. Col. Jean-Claude Gyachungkang, 1986 - 43:10-16 (1985-1986) -
GYAC86101 MM - - - 110:10 (Jul 1986) -
GYAC86101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723901/Asia-Nepal-Gyachungkang-South-Face - - -
GYAC86101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/4/gyachungkang-1986/ - - -