Gyachung Kang | 1964 W Face-NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gyachung Kang in 1964 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Kazuyoshi Kohara. Summit reached on 10th April 1964. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2527
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GYAC64101
Peak ID GYAC
Year 1964
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuyoshi Kohara
Sponsor All Japan Himalayan Expedition (Nagoya)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st,2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1964-03-11
Summit Date 1964-04-10
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 30
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1964-04-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7861
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 13
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/03,5280m),C1(17/03,5730m),C2(20/03,5960m),C3(23/03,6410m),C4.ABC(27/03,6650m),C5(01/04,7050m),C6A(06/04,7550m),C6B(09/04,7670m),Smt(10-11/04)
Route Notes Kyoto - 22 May 64 Leave KTM after 1 week. 6 camps above base. April 9 11:45 am Otaki accident. C5 called Otaki camp. 3 members started from Otaki camp 8:30 am including Otaki (Takeda and Kobayashi also), arrived final ridge border line between Nepal and Tibet about 11:30 am. Otaki 11:30 am getting tired and since ridge not so steep but long snowfield they take rest at 7750m. Takeda leader of party thought too late in day reach summit that day and considered returning to Otaki camp, but better explore route to summit. Takeda went 100m away to see; suddenly Otaki slipped, fell 2000m into Gyachung Kang glacier in Tibet. Very very steep where Otaki fell; nearly 2000m straight down, so unable climb down. Couldn't see body because of overhang. Kobayashi little below Otaki, who was resting. So why fell, cannot say. All members well throughout except Otaki fatal accident. Sherpas of Cho Oyu said German expedition coming after 3-4 days; met then 1 day below Namche. Kikuchi - 19 June 64 Arrive KTM 5 pm with Machida. Left 8th morning, all members; these 2 came quickly to meet Otaki's brother and Mainichi man. Rest will come about 23rd with Thakur. Otaki fell on Tibetan side and impossible recover because in Tibet; no one saw him fall. 11th morning Machida and Yasuhisa also reached summit. Most difficult: C4 to C6 very steep; around C5 avalanches also caused fear; avalanche actually went over tents sheltered under crevasse. 200m from summit very difficult rock climbing, so had to dump heavy oxygen cylinder which threatened throw him off balance. Leaving KTM around end May Brother of Otaki = Katsutoshi Otaki Sugio Kano, vice chief of editor's dept, Shinaro Mainichi Press, Nagano Arrive KTM today via Cal and New Delhi. Came to receive expedition which arrives KTM about May 26th according message received here about May 10th. Brother wants to take boots, sweater to mother and father of fiancee Miss Matsuya Kuba in Nagano City who knitted sweater about June 5-10. Brother also not climber but 1st time in Nepal. Body never found. JJAC 1965 Gyachung Kang climbed twice by AJHE: April 10, 1964 - Kato, Sakaizawa and Pasang Phutar III reached summit April 11, 1964 - Machida and Yasuhisa reached summit Thakur - 10 April (letter from Kohara) Climbed peak 7922m on 10th April. 10 April members Kato and Sakaizawa and Sirdar started from final C6 7680m at 7 am after great difficulties especially stiff rock knife-ridge stood on summit at 11 am and returned to camp at 2 pm. Many difficulties especially final camp to summit. Otaki fell down from knifed-ridge into Gyachung Glacier on 9 April, body lost. Brother says fell on other side of ridge. Breaking base camp April 25th. Kohara - 16 Feb 64 Leave tomorrow afternoon by jeep and truck expedition with about 30 porters set out a foot for mountain via Namche. Arrive Namche March 4-5 and to basecamp 4 days more at about 4500m on Ngojumba Glacier. Kohara will go to Advance Base about 6000m (Advance Base=4th camp above Base); highest camp will be C6 or C7. Liaison Officer is Prakash Chand Thakur's brother, Jay Chand Thakur Radio base to other camps only. Gyachung Kang tried 1951 British recon. 1960 Snowman expedition by Japanese recon (Fukuoka Univ) 1962 Sayre (Wylie says no British expedition really to Gyachung Kang - first in area) Sponsors as listed 13 Feb 63 dispatch climbing only 10-12 Sherpas; to be settled when Mgr Kato arrives Feb 9 Expedition leaves for Namche on Feb 15 or 16. Hope reach summit May 10-15 and return Kathmandu end June. Gyachung Kang recon by Fukuoka University in 1960, but not conquered. Letter from Kohara Climbed peak 7922 metres on 10th April. 10 April members Kato and Sakaizawa and sirdar started from final C6 at 7 am after great difficulties especially stiff rock knife ridge stood on summit at 11 am and returned to camp at 2 pm. E-mail from Mahiro Tada (JAC) - Mar 18, 2004 Team had 19 bottles of oxygen (French-made) and used it for sleeping at times.
Accidents Otaki killed in fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2440820
Year 1964
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face-nw ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kazuyoshi Kohara M - Japan Leader/Exp Doctor Omachi, Nagano, Japan Physician and chief of health center Details Other expeditions
Ichiro Yoshizawa M - Japan Deputy Leader Nagano, Japan Sports shop clerk Details Other expeditions
Kazunobu Machida M - Japan Climber Nagano, Japan Telephone company Details Other expeditions
Yukihiko Kato M 1933 Japan Manager Nagoya, Japan Salesman in trading company Details Other expeditions
Kiyoto Sakaizawa M - Japan Climber Komagane, Nagano, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Kazunari Yasuhisa M 1938 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan VP of dry cleaning shop in Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Akio Otaki M - Japan Climber Yamanouchi, Nagano, Japan Railway station clerk - Yamanouchi town (Nagano Prefecture) Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Takeda M - Japan Climber Matsukawa, Nagano, Japan Clerk in chemistry Details Other expeditions
Tadao Kitamura M - Japan Climber Kohoku, Nagano, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Toshiro Kikuchi M - Japan Reporter Nagano, Japan Reporter for Shimono Maunchi Press Details Other expeditions
Chuji Kobayashi M - Japan Cameraman Nagano, Japan Photographer for Shimethu broadcasting Co. Details Other expeditions
Pasang Phutar Sherpa M 1933 Nepal Sirdar Darjeeling, India Teacher in Darjeeling Mountaineering Institute Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GYAC64101 AAJ Kohara, Kazuyoshi - - 39:462-463 (1965) -
GYAC64101 JAC Kazuyoshi Kohara Gyachung Kang, 1964 - 60:1-3 (1965) -
GYAC64101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Gyachung Kang - 48:28-29 (Mar 1976) -
GYAC64101 - Kikuchi, Toshiro Challenge to Glory, The Ascent of Gyachung Kang Futami-shobo, Tokyo - jK144
GYAC64101 JAC Kazuyoshi Kohara Gyachung Kang, 1964 - 60:1-32 (1965) -
GYAC64101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546202/Asia-Nepal-Gyachung-Kang - - -