Gyachung Kang | 2005 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gyachung Kang in 2005 via SW Ridge, led by Yoshitaka Kawabe. Summit reached on 17th October 2005. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5082
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GYAC05301
Peak ID GYAC
Year 2005
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yoshitaka Kawabe
Sponsor Fukuoka University Alpine Club Gyachung Kang Expedition 2005
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 10th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Gyoko->Cho Oyu BC
Basecamp Date 2005-09-23
Summit Date 2005-10-17
Summit Time 1340
Summit Days 24
Total Days 29
Termination Date 2005-10-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7861
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 4000
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/09,5300m),C1(27/09,5800m),C2(03/10,6300m),C3(09/10,7000m),C4(16/10,7500m),Smt(17/10)
Route Notes Hanada, Shigekawa, Tamting Sherpa and Nima Tenji Sherpa left C4 at 04:30 hours on Oct 17, summited at 13:40 hours, stayed at summit about 35 minutes. Hanada and Tenji returned to C4 at 17:10 hours and Shigekawa and Tamting reached C4 at about 20:00 hours. They were late due to blindness of Shigekawa which ocurred about 400m below the summit. Shigekawa was helped by Tamting to reach to C4. Shigekawa thinks that the long descent time is one of the reasons for frostbite. Shigekawa realized the frostbitten fingers when he took off his gloves at C4. The weather on the summit day was very cold and windy from the early morning, otherwise it was good. The team left BC on Oct 22 to near Cho Oyu BC. Shigekawa and Hino were evacuated from Chatahiri (near Gyoko) on Oct 24. His frostbitten fingers were treated at CIWEC. Doctor could not say how bad is the case. Hino and Shigekawa left Nepal on Oct 28. Rest of the team members returned to KTM on Oct 30 and will leave on Nov 3. Member Hino climbed up to 6400m, suffered from cold on Oct 5 and stayed in BC. Leader of the team Kawabe stayed all the time in BC. Shima climbed up to 7000m on Oct 9 and turned back to BC due to tiredness. Shirozu and Takai were at C4 on 17 Oct. Both came down with Shigekawa to BC. Professor Nagata is not a climbing member. He was with the team to study air pollution in different places and he stayed in BC for 3 days. He left BC on Sept 26 and left Nepal on Oct 2. Sherpas: Tamting Sherpa (2031-9-5), Gaurishankar VDC Ward no 1, Dolakha summited Everest 5 times, Cho Oyu 6 times Nima Tenji Sherpa (2037-5-8), Gaurishankar VDC Ward No 1, Dolakha, summited Everest 3 times, Cho Oyu 1 time
Accidents Shigekawa's fingers frostbitten, middle ring and last finger of right hand, middle and index fingers of left hand
Achievement -
Agency Rolwaling Excursion
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456026
Year 2005
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yoshitaka Kawabe M 1941 Japan Leader Yamato-gun, Fukuoka, Japan President of frozen food company Details Other expeditions
Michihiko Shima M 1957 Japan Deputy Leader Osaka, Japan Construction company cost estimator Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Hanada M 1960 Japan Climber Koga-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Mitsuaki Hino M 1977 Japan Climber Haki, Fukuoka, Japan Farm worker Details Other expeditions
Eisuke Shigekawa M 1974 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Takahiro Shirozu M 1969 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Toru Takai M 1981 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Nima Tenji/Tenzi Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Tamting Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GYAC05301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay - - 80:416 (2006) -
GYAC05301 CLIM - - - 25:71 (Mar 2007) -
GYAC05301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200641601/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Mahalangur-Himal-Khumbu-Section-Gyachung-Kang-Fourth-Ascent-from-Asia-Nepal-via-Variants-to-Southwest-Spur - - -