Gyachung Kang | 2002 N Face (Slovenian Aut 99 route)

A Japan expedition to Gyachung Kang in 2002 via N Face (Slovenian Aut 99 route), led by Yasushi Yamanoi. Summit reached on 8th October 2002. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4188
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GYAC02301
Peak ID GYAC
Year 2002
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (Slovenian Aut 99 route)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasushi Yamanoi
Sponsor Japanese Team on Gyachung Kang
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach By road KTM->Tingri->BC
Basecamp Date 2002-09-16
Summit Date 2002-10-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 28
Termination Date 2002-10-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7861
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/09,5800m),ABC(20/09,6100m),Biv1(06/10,6550m),Biv2(07/10,7500m),Smt(08/10)
Route Notes ABC at Gyachung Glacier Biv 1 at North Face Biv 2 at North Face Biv 3 at North Face Biv 4 at North Face in descent. Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa (BC staff) - Dec 15, 2002 Notes from Hawley interview Mr. Yasushi Yamanoi and his wife Taeko were hospitalized in Tokyo for the amputation of dozens of fingers due to frostbite. Taeko and Yasushi, two of Japan's premier alpinists, attempted Gyachung Kang (7985m) via the Slovenian Route this October. They arrived at base camp on October 5 and proceeded to an advanced base camp at the foot of the Slovenian Route. On October 7 they continued climbing to 7500m and bivouacked. On Oct 8 it began snowing and at 7600m Taeko gave up climbing and decided to wait for Yasushi. Yasushi returned after reaching the summit solo, and reunited with Taeko, made another bivouac. Snow continued on Oct 9 and they descended to 7200m meters and bivouacked. While descending in the continous snow on Oct 10, Taeko was hit by avalanche, losing her right glove and vision in her left eye. Later the same day Yasushi also lost vision in both eyes. They managed to descend to their advanced base camp where they found none of their support team members. A ten-hour descent on Oct 12 led them to a bivouac on the glacier, Taeko still had no vision. On Oct 13 they arrived at their base camp to learn that their support team had assumed they had disappeared and would not return. They were immediately taken to the hospital in KTM and were flown to the hospital in Tokyo on October 18. BC(10/05,5700m),ABC(10/05,5830m),Biv1(10/06,7000m),Biv2(10/07,7500m), Biv3(10/08,7600m),Biv4(10/09,7200m),Smt(10/08)
Accidents Both members very serious frostbite following avalanche hitting Yasushi
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454918
Year 2002
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (slovenian aut 99 route)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Taeko Nagao Yamanoi F 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Hotel employee Details Other expeditions
Yasushi Yamanoi M 1965 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Pasang Gyalje (Pasang Gyalzen) Sherpa M 1964 Nepal Sirdar Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GYAC02301 ALP Yoshinobu, Emoto - - 2:94 (Spring 2003) -
GYAC02301 JAN Emoto, Yoshinobu Yamanois' Incredible Survival - 3:49-52 (May 2003) -
GYAC02301 AAJ Nakamura, Tamotsu - - 77:416 (2003) -
GYAC02301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200341601/Gyachung-Kang-North-Face-Second-Ascent-of-Slovenian-Route - - -
GYAC02301 - - http://jac.or.jp/english/images/vol3/jan-vol3-49-52.pdf - - -