Gurja Himal | 1996 NW Face-W Ridge

A Spain expedition to Gurja Himal in 1996 via NW Face-W Ridge, led by Pedro Nicolas. Summit reached on 20th September 1996. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1926
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GURJ96301
Peak ID GURJ
Year 1996
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Pedro Nicolas
Sponsor Spanish Gurja Himal Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Gurja Kani->Budzunga Basa->Jhar Khola->Kaphe Khola
Basecamp Date 1996-09-07
Summit Date 1996-09-20
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 13
Total Days 19
Termination Date 1996-09-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7193
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 500
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/09,4450m),C1(14/09,4950m),C2(18/09,5700m),C3(19/09,6300m),Smt(20/09)
Route Notes BC at Kapha Khola's feeding glacier C1 at glacier ENE of point 4738 C3 at NW Face. From C1 crossed rocky area, fixed 500m ropes on steep rock, to glacier plateau to C3 on slope of NW Face and through to West Ridge to top via small Col on ridge. On 20th started 4:00 am in very cold and soft snow covered by crust and were on summit 2:00 pm. Left C3: Martinez, Garcia-Atance, Mr. Fernandez and Nicolas. Martinez and Garcia-Atance stopped at Col at 6800m because of cold and exhausted and descended; Fernandez and Nicolas up summit ridge but Fernandez became slow so Nicolas to top alone at 2:00 pm and after 10 minutes wait for Fernandez descended; now at 7000m and Fernandez joined Nicolas in descent. Fernandez fell just after they met and created avalanche and fell from 7100m to 6700m but no serious injury in deep snow.
Accidents Madejon & Miss Fernandez illness (he edema, she throat)
Achievement 1st Spanish success on 1st Spanish attempt
Agency Treks of Enchantment
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452703
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face-w ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Miriam Jesus (Maria) Ferrer F 1966 Spain Exp Doctor Madrid, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Maria Concepcion (Inmaculada) Fernandez Morales F 1948 Spain Climber Granada, Spain University teacher Details Other expeditions
Jose Luis Fernandez M 1957 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Printer Details Other expeditions
Salvador Garcia-Atance Lafuente M 1951 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Economist Details Other expeditions
Javier Madejon Concejal M 1958 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Computer systems manager Details Other expeditions
Juan Martinez Goytre M 1963 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Geologist Details Other expeditions
Pedro Nicolas Martinez M 1953 Spain Leader Madrid, Spain Teacher Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GURJ96301 HJ Martinez, Juan Spanish Expedition to Gurja Himal - 54:181-184 (1998) -
GURJ96301 AAJ Nicolas, Pedro - - 71:290-291 (1997) -
GURJ96301 HIGH - - - 175:93 (Jun 1997) -
GURJ96301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199729002/Asia-Nepal-Gurja-Himal-First-Spanish-Ascent - - -
GURJ96301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/54/19/expeditions-and-notes-54/ - - -