Gurja Himal | 1985 NW Face-W Ridge
A Japan expedition to Gurja Himal in 1985 via NW Face-W Ridge, led by Shoichi Kobayashi. Summit reached on 29th April 1985. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 181 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GURJ85101 |
| Peak ID | GURJ |
| Year | 1985 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Face-W Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Shoichi Kobayashi |
| Sponsor | Joint Nepalese-Japanese Three Peaks Expedition 1985 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 5th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1985-04-04 |
| Summit Date | 1985-04-29 |
| Summit Time | 1345 |
| Summit Days | 25 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7193 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | True |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Planned Churen Himal (CHUR-851-01) and Dhaulagiri VI only |
| Campsites | BC(04/04,4200m),C1(07/04,4700m),C2(20/04,5800m),C3(26/04,6500m),Smt(29/04) |
| Route Notes | BC at Kaphe Khola near point 4100m on Dhaulagiri map C1 on glacier near point 4738m C2 on west side of Ghustang North's small North Ridge C3 at NW Face of Gurja. Route was easy mostly: below C2 and on W Ridge required some fixed rope 140m on final ridge and C1 to C2 750m. On summit day left C3 5:30 am and on top 1:45 pm after fixing rope as they moved up that day. In descent Kobayashi fell after his crampon broke and came off. He was on ridge just above col at 6800m. Had good weather during climb not much snowfall. Makes no attempt to scale Churen or Dhaulagiri VI. Kobayashi fell 40m hitting head and body on rock and ice. He was carried down to C3 where he died at 8:30 pm on 29 April. Taue had stomach trouble so he and doctor left 1 week ahead of others, but then climb finished. 3 Nepalese "members" were the 3 Sherpas. |
| Accidents | Kabayashi fell 40m hitting head & body on rock, ice (carried down to C3 where he died on Apr 29); 1 member had stomach trouble; doctor left 1 week ahead of others, but then climb finished |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448530 |
| Year | 1985 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | nw face-w ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nawang Choklang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Rolwaling, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Haruo Itoh | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Iijima, Nagano, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshiko Kasho | F | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoichi Kobayashi | M | 1941 | Japan | Leader | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | President, construction company | Details Other expeditions |
| Daiji Matsukawa | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Takato, Nagano, Japan | Truck driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Sakae Nagasawa | M | 1950 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Assistant professor at dental college | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Ogasawara | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Minami Azumi, Nagano, Japan | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Michio Sakurai | M | 1946 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Suwa, Nagano, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Takayuki Taue | M | 1957 | Japan | Climber | Agematu, Kiso-ku, Nagano, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Yonden Sherpa | M | 1952 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuko Yoshikawa | F | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan | Dental hygenist | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GURJ85101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 60:251 (1986) | - |
| GURJ85101 | MM | - | - | - | 105:10 (Sep 1985) | - |
| GURJ85101 | IWA | - | - | - | :66 (1986) | - |
| GURJ85101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198625102/Asia-Nepal-Gurja-Himal-Ascent-and-Tragedy | - | - | - |