Gurja Himal | 1985 NW Face-W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gurja Himal in 1985 via NW Face-W Ridge, led by Shoichi Kobayashi. Summit reached on 29th April 1985. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 181
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GURJ85101
Peak ID GURJ
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shoichi Kobayashi
Sponsor Joint Nepalese-Japanese Three Peaks Expedition 1985
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-04-04
Summit Date 1985-04-29
Summit Time 1345
Summit Days 25
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7193
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Planned Churen Himal (CHUR-851-01) and Dhaulagiri VI only
Campsites BC(04/04,4200m),C1(07/04,4700m),C2(20/04,5800m),C3(26/04,6500m),Smt(29/04)
Route Notes BC at Kaphe Khola near point 4100m on Dhaulagiri map C1 on glacier near point 4738m C2 on west side of Ghustang North's small North Ridge C3 at NW Face of Gurja. Route was easy mostly: below C2 and on W Ridge required some fixed rope 140m on final ridge and C1 to C2 750m. On summit day left C3 5:30 am and on top 1:45 pm after fixing rope as they moved up that day. In descent Kobayashi fell after his crampon broke and came off. He was on ridge just above col at 6800m. Had good weather during climb not much snowfall. Makes no attempt to scale Churen or Dhaulagiri VI. Kobayashi fell 40m hitting head and body on rock and ice. He was carried down to C3 where he died at 8:30 pm on 29 April. Taue had stomach trouble so he and doctor left 1 week ahead of others, but then climb finished. 3 Nepalese "members" were the 3 Sherpas.
Accidents Kabayashi fell 40m hitting head & body on rock, ice (carried down to C3 where he died on Apr 29); 1 member had stomach trouble; doctor left 1 week ahead of others, but then climb finished
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448530
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) nw face-w ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nawang Choklang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Rolwaling, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Haruo Itoh M 1951 Japan Climber Iijima, Nagano, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Yoshiko Kasho F 1949 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Shoichi Kobayashi M 1941 Japan Leader Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan President, construction company Details Other expeditions
Daiji Matsukawa M 1956 Japan Climber Takato, Nagano, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Sakae Nagasawa M 1950 Japan Deputy Leader Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Assistant professor at dental college Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Ogasawara M 1950 Japan Climber Minami Azumi, Nagano, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Michio Sakurai M 1946 Japan Exp Doctor Suwa, Nagano, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Takayuki Taue M 1957 Japan Climber Agematu, Kiso-ku, Nagano, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Nawang Yonden Sherpa M 1952 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Nobuko Yoshikawa F 1953 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Dental hygenist Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GURJ85101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:251 (1986) -
GURJ85101 MM - - - 105:10 (Sep 1985) -
GURJ85101 IWA - - - :66 (1986) -
GURJ85101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198625102/Asia-Nepal-Gurja-Himal-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -