Gurja Himal | 1972 N Ridge

A France expedition to Gurja Himal in 1972 via N Ridge, led by Pierre Buttin. Summit reached on 21st October 1972. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2360
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GURJ72301
Peak ID GURJ
Year 1972
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge
Route 2 W Face
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Pierre Buttin
Sponsor Expedition Lyonnaise a l'Himalaya
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 3rd
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dhorpatan->Kaphe Khola
Basecamp Date 1972-10-03
Summit Date 1972-10-21
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1972-10-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7193
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/10,4420m),C1(06/10,5000m),C2(07,12/10,5700m),C3(15/10,6500m),Smt(21-22/10)
Route Notes Buttin & Amy - 6 Nov 72 All members arrive KTM today. Dhorpatan to Japanese BC in 4-1/2 days. Our base above Japanese BC at 4400m northwest of Ghustang and used Japanese fixed rope to glacier (Japanese very good gentleman, very amiable). C1 at 5000m C2 5700m C3 6500-6600m Fixed rope up spur to ridge 13-14 Oct; 18-19 to top of spur on 21st Oct. First group to summit and down by C3 and established on 21 Oct. C2 placed 3 times: 7th, 9th, 12th On 21 summit: Mathieu, Sarthou Soubis and Buttin and 2 Sherpas and Mrs Buttin made C3 on 21st so they could make ascent next day from C2 1/2 on West Face. This route was Japanese route. Very difficult from C3 up to top of sugar (on 21st) but along ridge very easy but very sharp ridge with cornice and strong wind from west. Very easy via West Face: from C2 to C3 1/2 very deep snow only; above C3 1/2 steeper. Had hoped send others to summit, but 3 weeks from BC to summit and porters arrive BC 24 Oct so no time for others to try summit because had to return to KTM. Did not know about this pass. Leave KTM Sat. Shrestha, MFA 21 Oct Sylvain Sarthou, Benoit Mathieu reached peak. 22 Oct Mr and Mrs Buttin, Soubis, Sirdar Mingma Tsering and Pasang Sherpa. Amy to Rieffel - 19 Oct 72 C5 5000m C2 5700m C3 6500m 20-21 assault towards summit 24-25 leave base camp. Expect 12 days to Pokhara and arrive 5 Nov and proceed as rapidly as possibly. Mathieu & Amy - 21 Sept 72 All to Pokhara Today execept Buttin, Amy and Mathieu who go on Sat 23rd in RNAC Pilatus Porter charter with Emil Wick to Pokhara for 5 shuttles on Sat and Sun to Dhorpatan and for aerial survey by Buttin, Amy Soubis, Jillot and Machieu. 3 or 4 days to base from Dhorpatan via Gurja village and thence to west and southwest of Gurja. On base same members walk from Pokhara starting tomorrow: Mrs Buttin Leroudier and wife Fresafond Sarthou Brocard will climb a little: to C1: is a climber (Alps and Peru) Mrs Buttin can go higher; she hopes to go to summit About 1 month for acclimatization and climbing. 3 or 4 camps certainly above base and advance base. Mathieus & Thomas - 16 Sept 72 We left Lyons 27 Aug. 3 days in Lahore waiting for Thursday border opening. In truck with all baggage. Reached Nepal border last Sun. Reached Pokhara after 3 days and baggage in Pokhara. Aarrive KTM 14 Sept. Rest of expedition arrive KTM Monday RNAC. To Pokhara Wed or Thursday. Gurja routes now difficult so don't know exactly their approach except south is out of question. Will charter Pilatus Porter to make aerial survey and decide whether via northeast or northwest. Will attempt main peak (22,599 ft), same as that climbed by Japanese in 1969.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443944
Year 1972
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pierre Buttin M 1925 France Leader Decines-Charpieu, Rhone, France Physician in private practice in Lyon Details Other expeditions
Yvette Buttin F 1945 France Climber Decines-Charpieu, Rhone, France Housewife Details Other expeditions
Bernard Amy M 1940 France Climber Paris, France Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Nicole Brocard F 1945 France Climber Lohre, France - Details Other expeditions
Roger Dietz M 1926 France Climber St. Marcel-les-Valence, Drome France Engineer with electric power-line construction company Details Other expeditions
Helene Dietz F 1923 France Member St. Marcel-les-Valence, Drome France - Details Other expeditions
Jean Pierre Fresafond M 1936 France Climber - Sales representative for chemical products Co. (paints & detergents) Details Other expeditions
Rene Gillot M 1921 France Climber Digne-les-Bains, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, France Insurance company director Details Other expeditions
Jean Leroudier M 1936 France Climber Lyon, Rhone, France Engineer in printing press in Lyon Details Other expeditions
Christiane Leroudier F 1943 France Member - Housewife Details Other expeditions
Benoit Mathieu M 1945 France Climber Lyon, Rhone, France Architect Details Other expeditions
Sylvain Sarthou M 1939 France Climber - In charge of National Park in the French Alps near Grenoble Details Other expeditions
Jacques Soubis M 1928 France Climber Le Bouscat, Gironde, France Dentist in Bordeaux Details Other expeditions
Rene Thomas M 1924 France Climber Val d' Isere, Savoie, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GURJ72301 AAJ Amy, Bernard - - 47:483-484 (1973) -
GURJ72301 - Buttin, Yvette Grand-Mere 7000 Presses de la Cite, Paris - B653
GURJ72301 MM - - - 25:10 (Jan 1973) -
GURJ72301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348302/Asia-Nepal-Gurja-Himal-Northwest-Spur-and-North-Ridge - - -