Gurja Himal | 1972 N Ridge
A France expedition to Gurja Himal in 1972 via N Ridge, led by Pierre Buttin. Summit reached on 21st October 1972. 16 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2360 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GURJ72301 |
| Peak ID | GURJ |
| Year | 1972 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Ridge |
| Route 2 | W Face |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Pierre Buttin |
| Sponsor | Expedition Lyonnaise a l'Himalaya |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 2nd |
| Ascent 2 | 3rd |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dhorpatan->Kaphe Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1972-10-03 |
| Summit Date | 1972-10-21 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 18 |
| Total Days | 22 |
| Termination Date | 1972-10-25 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7193 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 5 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/10,4420m),C1(06/10,5000m),C2(07,12/10,5700m),C3(15/10,6500m),Smt(21-22/10) |
| Route Notes | Buttin & Amy - 6 Nov 72 All members arrive KTM today. Dhorpatan to Japanese BC in 4-1/2 days. Our base above Japanese BC at 4400m northwest of Ghustang and used Japanese fixed rope to glacier (Japanese very good gentleman, very amiable). C1 at 5000m C2 5700m C3 6500-6600m Fixed rope up spur to ridge 13-14 Oct; 18-19 to top of spur on 21st Oct. First group to summit and down by C3 and established on 21 Oct. C2 placed 3 times: 7th, 9th, 12th On 21 summit: Mathieu, Sarthou Soubis and Buttin and 2 Sherpas and Mrs Buttin made C3 on 21st so they could make ascent next day from C2 1/2 on West Face. This route was Japanese route. Very difficult from C3 up to top of sugar (on 21st) but along ridge very easy but very sharp ridge with cornice and strong wind from west. Very easy via West Face: from C2 to C3 1/2 very deep snow only; above C3 1/2 steeper. Had hoped send others to summit, but 3 weeks from BC to summit and porters arrive BC 24 Oct so no time for others to try summit because had to return to KTM. Did not know about this pass. Leave KTM Sat. Shrestha, MFA 21 Oct Sylvain Sarthou, Benoit Mathieu reached peak. 22 Oct Mr and Mrs Buttin, Soubis, Sirdar Mingma Tsering and Pasang Sherpa. Amy to Rieffel - 19 Oct 72 C5 5000m C2 5700m C3 6500m 20-21 assault towards summit 24-25 leave base camp. Expect 12 days to Pokhara and arrive 5 Nov and proceed as rapidly as possibly. Mathieu & Amy - 21 Sept 72 All to Pokhara Today execept Buttin, Amy and Mathieu who go on Sat 23rd in RNAC Pilatus Porter charter with Emil Wick to Pokhara for 5 shuttles on Sat and Sun to Dhorpatan and for aerial survey by Buttin, Amy Soubis, Jillot and Machieu. 3 or 4 days to base from Dhorpatan via Gurja village and thence to west and southwest of Gurja. On base same members walk from Pokhara starting tomorrow: Mrs Buttin Leroudier and wife Fresafond Sarthou Brocard will climb a little: to C1: is a climber (Alps and Peru) Mrs Buttin can go higher; she hopes to go to summit About 1 month for acclimatization and climbing. 3 or 4 camps certainly above base and advance base. Mathieus & Thomas - 16 Sept 72 We left Lyons 27 Aug. 3 days in Lahore waiting for Thursday border opening. In truck with all baggage. Reached Nepal border last Sun. Reached Pokhara after 3 days and baggage in Pokhara. Aarrive KTM 14 Sept. Rest of expedition arrive KTM Monday RNAC. To Pokhara Wed or Thursday. Gurja routes now difficult so don't know exactly their approach except south is out of question. Will charter Pilatus Porter to make aerial survey and decide whether via northeast or northwest. Will attempt main peak (22,599 ft), same as that climbed by Japanese in 1969. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2443944 |
| Year | 1972 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n ridge |
Members
16 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pierre Buttin | M | 1925 | France | Leader | Decines-Charpieu, Rhone, France | Physician in private practice in Lyon | Details Other expeditions |
| Yvette Buttin | F | 1945 | France | Climber | Decines-Charpieu, Rhone, France | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Bernard Amy | M | 1940 | France | Climber | Paris, France | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Nicole Brocard | F | 1945 | France | Climber | Lohre, France | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Roger Dietz | M | 1926 | France | Climber | St. Marcel-les-Valence, Drome France | Engineer with electric power-line construction company | Details Other expeditions |
| Helene Dietz | F | 1923 | France | Member | St. Marcel-les-Valence, Drome France | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Pierre Fresafond | M | 1936 | France | Climber | - | Sales representative for chemical products Co. (paints & detergents) | Details Other expeditions |
| Rene Gillot | M | 1921 | France | Climber | Digne-les-Bains, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, France | Insurance company director | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Leroudier | M | 1936 | France | Climber | Lyon, Rhone, France | Engineer in printing press in Lyon | Details Other expeditions |
| Christiane Leroudier | F | 1943 | France | Member | - | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Benoit Mathieu | M | 1945 | France | Climber | Lyon, Rhone, France | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Sylvain Sarthou | M | 1939 | France | Climber | - | In charge of National Park in the French Alps near Grenoble | Details Other expeditions |
| Jacques Soubis | M | 1928 | France | Climber | Le Bouscat, Gironde, France | Dentist in Bordeaux | Details Other expeditions |
| Rene Thomas | M | 1924 | France | Climber | Val d' Isere, Savoie, France | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Tshering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GURJ72301 | AAJ | Amy, Bernard | - | - | 47:483-484 (1973) | - |
| GURJ72301 | - | Buttin, Yvette | Grand-Mere 7000 | Presses de la Cite, Paris | - | B653 |
| GURJ72301 | MM | - | - | - | 25:10 (Jan 1973) | - |
| GURJ72301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348302/Asia-Nepal-Gurja-Himal-Northwest-Spur-and-North-Ridge | - | - | - |