Glacier Dome | 1964 SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome)

A Japan expedition to Glacier Dome in 1964 via SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome), led by Sumio Shima. Summit reached on 16th October 1964. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2517
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GLAC64301
Peak ID GLAC
Year 1964
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Sumio Shima
Sponsor All Japan Himalayan Expedition 1964 (Chiba)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
Basecamp Date 1964-09-17
Summit Date 1964-10-16
Summit Time 1145
Summit Days 29
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7069
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/09,4200m),C1(29/09,4220m),C2(30/09,4815m),C3(05/10,5400m),C4(09/10,5760m),C5(14/10,6190m),Biv(15/10,6490m),Smt(16/10)
Route Notes BC establishment 17th Sep 13,000 ft 18-24th Sept - exploration from South Annapurna Glacier between Fluted peak and Tent peak) C1 - 29th Sep 14,000 ft established in the West Annapurna Glacier through the Gorge C2 - 30th Sep 15,800 ft C3 - 5th Oct 17,900 ft in the bottom of Glacier Dome Glacier C4 - 9th Oct 19,000 ft on the Ice Building of Icefall C5 - 14th Oct 20,400 ft just below the col of Glacier Dome and Fluted Peak On 15th Oct two attack members Nishimura, Mitsuhiro with Dorje Sherpa started from C5 with equipments of bivouac. They made bivouac on the col of Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome. We called it C6 at the height of 21,400 ft. On 16th Oct they started 6:00 am and scaled the peak of Glacier Dome at 11:45 am. The altitude meter shows the height of 23,450 ft on the top of the Glacier Dome. Their physical conditions were quite well on and they returned to C5 of the same day with great satisfaction. The summit is covered with thick snow and divided by several small peaks. They stayed at the highest of them for 1 hour and buried the memories and pictures of our two mountaineering companions who were dead in the mountain of Japan by accident and had longed to go to Mt. Glacier Dome with us under the snow of the summit. These two late companions will stand and stay on the summit of Glacier Dome with great satisfaction and friendship to eternity.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2441009
Year 1964
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw side (from col betw fluted peak & glac dome)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sumio Shima M - Japan Leader Chiba, Japan Endocrinologist - lecturer in Dept of Physiology, National Inst Details Other expeditions
Shoichi Ishikawa M - Japan Climber Chiba, Japan School teacher Details Other expeditions
Teruaki Arisama M - Japan Climber Chiba, Japan Officer in city government's income tax dept Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Sase M - Japan Climber Chiba, Japan Schoolteacher Details Other expeditions
Mitsuhiro Nishimura M - Japan Climber Chiba, Japan School teacher Details Other expeditions
Masami Takeuchi M - Japan Climber Chiba, Japan Manager of own architectural firm Details Other expeditions
Yoshikatsu Takahashi M - Japan Climber Chiba, Japan Research engineer Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GLAC64301 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 39:465 (1965) -
GLAC64301 JAC Shima, Sumio Glacier Dome, 1964 - 60:9-10 (1965) -
GLAC64301 JAC Shima, Sumio Glacier Dome, 1964 - 60:87-100 (1965) -
GLAC64301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546503/Asia-Nepal-Glacier-Dome-Annapurna-Group - - -