Gimmigela Chuli | 1997 SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Gimmigela Chuli in 1997 via SW Ridge, led by Patrick Parsons. Summit reached on 10th May 1997. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2284
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GIMM97101
Peak ID GIMM
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Patrick Parsons
Sponsor British Services Gimmigela Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th,5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-04-03
Summit Date 1997-05-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 37
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1997-05-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7005
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1800
Total Members 14
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,5139m),C1.ABC(09/04,5580m),C2(28/04,6300m),C3(04/05,6700m),C4(09/05,7000m),Smt(10,12/05)
Route Notes BC at Pangpema C1 (ABC) at bottom of SW Ridge C2 on ridge C3 on ridge (same site as Japanese in autumn 1995) C4 on ridge before lower of the two twins. Above C1.ABC "was attention warfare" steep ice, steep crack, a lot of snow "a hell of a climb." Fixed all of route from C1 to C2 (about 1200m of rope fixed, most of it doubled up) and bit of other sections of route. C1 to C2 was "crux of the climb." Right until end outcome in doubt and 1st summit success was "superhuman effort" against strong wind and hard climbing. Brought all rubbish including ropes away from Pangpema. Decided when had actually finally established C2 that would not attempt Pyramid Peak although had paid its royalty and fee for liaison officer. Snowfall often: climbed all day, snowed all night, route making all over again. Towards the end, winds got strong.
Accidents Minor frostbite and 1 fall by Hart but not serious and continued climbing
Achievement 1st British ascent; 1st ascent of entire SW Ridge
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452936
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ian Edward (Ted) Atkins M 1958 UK Climber Brampton, Cumbria, England Royal Air Force engineering officer (1st Lieutenant) Details Other expeditions
Huan Davies M 1970 UK Climber Bickleigh, Devon, England Lieutenant in Royal Marines Details Other expeditions
Robert Ewen M 1955 UK BC Manager Okehampton, Devon, England Royal Marines warrant officer Details Other expeditions
Jonathan (Larry) Foden M 1969 UK Climber Ashbourne, Derbyshire, England Corporal in Royal Marines, 45 Commandos Details Other expeditions
Andrew Gibson M 1967 UK Exp Doctor Bromley, London, England Surgeon Lieutenant in Royal Navy, medical officer in command logistic Details Other expeditions
Martin Hallett M 1971 UK Climber Wareham, Dorset, England Royal Marines Details Other expeditions
Paul Andrew Hart M 1962 UK Climber Plymouth, Devon, England Lieutenant in Royal Navy Details Other expeditions
Nigel Christopher Lane M 1966 UK Climber Plymouth, Devon, England Sergeant in Royal Marines Details Other expeditions
Robert A. (Rob) Magowan M 1967 UK Climber Rhos-on-Sea, Clwyd, Wales Lieutenant in Royal Marines Details Other expeditions
Patrick H. (Pat) Parsons M 1955 UK Leader Plymouth, Devon, England Royal Marines (Major) Details Other expeditions
Neil Peacock M 1968 UK Climber Plymouth, Devon, England Corporal in Royal Marines Details Other expeditions
David Sheridan M 1967 UK Climber Barry, S Glamorgan, Wales Sapper in army's Royal Engineers Details Other expeditions
Callum Weeks M 1971 Australia Climber Subiaco, WA, Australia Lieutenant in British Army's intelligence corps Details Other expeditions
Clive Wilson M 1958 UK Deputy Leader Plymouth, Devon, England Lieutenant in Royal Marines Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GIMM97101 HJ Parsons, Pat The British Services Gimmigela Expedition - 54:33-41 (1998) -
GIMM97101 AJ Parsons, Pat The Gimmigela Adventure - 103:126-132 (1998) -
GIMM97101 AAJ - - - 72:314 (1998) -
GIMM97101 HIGH - - - 179:17-18 (Oct 1997) -
GIMM97101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199831401/Asia-Nepal-Gimmegela-Third-Ascent - - -
GIMM97101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/54/5/the-british-services-gimmigela-expedition/ - - -
GIMM97101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1998_files/AJ%201998%20126-132%20Parsons%20Gimmigela.pdf - - -