Gimmigela Chuli | 1997 SW Ridge
A UK expedition to Gimmigela Chuli in 1997 via SW Ridge, led by Patrick Parsons. Summit reached on 10th May 1997. 14 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2284 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GIMM97101 |
| Peak ID | GIMM |
| Year | 1997 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Patrick Parsons |
| Sponsor | British Services Gimmigela Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 4th,5th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1997-04-03 |
| Summit Date | 1997-05-10 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 37 |
| Total Days | 45 |
| Termination Date | 1997-05-18 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7005 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1800 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/04,5139m),C1.ABC(09/04,5580m),C2(28/04,6300m),C3(04/05,6700m),C4(09/05,7000m),Smt(10,12/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at Pangpema C1 (ABC) at bottom of SW Ridge C2 on ridge C3 on ridge (same site as Japanese in autumn 1995) C4 on ridge before lower of the two twins. Above C1.ABC "was attention warfare" steep ice, steep crack, a lot of snow "a hell of a climb." Fixed all of route from C1 to C2 (about 1200m of rope fixed, most of it doubled up) and bit of other sections of route. C1 to C2 was "crux of the climb." Right until end outcome in doubt and 1st summit success was "superhuman effort" against strong wind and hard climbing. Brought all rubbish including ropes away from Pangpema. Decided when had actually finally established C2 that would not attempt Pyramid Peak although had paid its royalty and fee for liaison officer. Snowfall often: climbed all day, snowed all night, route making all over again. Towards the end, winds got strong. |
| Accidents | Minor frostbite and 1 fall by Hart but not serious and continued climbing |
| Achievement | 1st British ascent; 1st ascent of entire SW Ridge |
| Agency | Summit Nepal Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452936 |
| Year | 1997 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
14 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ian Edward (Ted) Atkins | M | 1958 | UK | Climber | Brampton, Cumbria, England | Royal Air Force engineering officer (1st Lieutenant) | Details Other expeditions |
| Huan Davies | M | 1970 | UK | Climber | Bickleigh, Devon, England | Lieutenant in Royal Marines | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert Ewen | M | 1955 | UK | BC Manager | Okehampton, Devon, England | Royal Marines warrant officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan (Larry) Foden | M | 1969 | UK | Climber | Ashbourne, Derbyshire, England | Corporal in Royal Marines, 45 Commandos | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew Gibson | M | 1967 | UK | Exp Doctor | Bromley, London, England | Surgeon Lieutenant in Royal Navy, medical officer in command logistic | Details Other expeditions |
| Martin Hallett | M | 1971 | UK | Climber | Wareham, Dorset, England | Royal Marines | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Andrew Hart | M | 1962 | UK | Climber | Plymouth, Devon, England | Lieutenant in Royal Navy | Details Other expeditions |
| Nigel Christopher Lane | M | 1966 | UK | Climber | Plymouth, Devon, England | Sergeant in Royal Marines | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert A. (Rob) Magowan | M | 1967 | UK | Climber | Rhos-on-Sea, Clwyd, Wales | Lieutenant in Royal Marines | Details Other expeditions |
| Patrick H. (Pat) Parsons | M | 1955 | UK | Leader | Plymouth, Devon, England | Royal Marines (Major) | Details Other expeditions |
| Neil Peacock | M | 1968 | UK | Climber | Plymouth, Devon, England | Corporal in Royal Marines | Details Other expeditions |
| David Sheridan | M | 1967 | UK | Climber | Barry, S Glamorgan, Wales | Sapper in army's Royal Engineers | Details Other expeditions |
| Callum Weeks | M | 1971 | Australia | Climber | Subiaco, WA, Australia | Lieutenant in British Army's intelligence corps | Details Other expeditions |
| Clive Wilson | M | 1958 | UK | Deputy Leader | Plymouth, Devon, England | Lieutenant in Royal Marines | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GIMM97101 | HJ | Parsons, Pat | The British Services Gimmigela Expedition | - | 54:33-41 (1998) | - |
| GIMM97101 | AJ | Parsons, Pat | The Gimmigela Adventure | - | 103:126-132 (1998) | - |
| GIMM97101 | AAJ | - | - | - | 72:314 (1998) | - |
| GIMM97101 | HIGH | - | - | - | 179:17-18 (Oct 1997) | - |
| GIMM97101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199831401/Asia-Nepal-Gimmegela-Third-Ascent | - | - | - |
| GIMM97101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/54/5/the-british-services-gimmigela-expedition/ | - | - | - |
| GIMM97101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1998_files/AJ%201998%20126-132%20Parsons%20Gimmigela.pdf | - | - | - |