Gimmigela Chuli | 1995 N side-W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gimmigela Chuli in 1995 via N side-W Ridge, led by Yasunari Yamashita. Summit reached on 16th October 1995. 24 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1638
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GIMM95301
Peak ID GIMM
Year 1995
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N side-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasunari Yamashita
Sponsor Nepal Police-Tokyo University of Agriculture Gimmigela Exp
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd,3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-09-20
Summit Date 1995-10-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 26
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1995-10-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 9
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 8
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,5100m),C1(25/09,5600m),C2(01/10,6100m),C3(07/10,6700m),C4(16/10,7200m),Smt(16-17/10)
Route Notes BC at Pangpema normal site of Kangchenjunga North Face expedition C1 on glacier between Cross Peak and Gimmigela peaks C2 on plateau of glacier between Cross and Gimmigela peaks C3 on Gimmigela West Ridge C4 on West Ridge (used only search beyond summit for Japanese who died on east side in 1993 attempt from Sikkimese side). This team completed route attempted by 1963 Japanese who reached this group's C3 area (their C4 was there). Fixed ropes on 14th with pitons on rocky face between Cross Peak and Gimmigela, up Gimmigela's north side near North Ridge to West Ridge. Most difficult part was C3 and above due to strong wind. Roped C1 to C2: very unstable rock (ropes had to be replaced/checked every day) with much rock fall. From C2 to C3 fixed 17 pitches up somewhat steep slope and from C3 to top up final snow ridge 31 pitches. Technically none of route difficult. After summit reached, C4 pitched on 16th and 3 Japnese summiters stayed there at 7200m to search for body of Japanese who died in 1993 in attempt from (Sikkimese) Indian side. These 3 in C4 used oxygen sleeping in C4; on 17th went small distance towards Gimmigela East, but weather changed and couldn't reach accident site in strong wind and 17th night one stay in C4 while others down & 3 Japanese 17th summiters slept in C4. 18th strong wind and search abandoned. Team had 11 Japanese members because many from their club wanted to come to this mountain because of 1963 failed attempt and loss of member in 1993. Can be successfully climbed by smaller expedition.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452362
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n side-w ridge

Members

24 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kenta Hirose M 1970 Japan Climber Kamakura, Kanagawa, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Shinji Kobayashi M 1956 Japan Climber Aizubange, Fukushima, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Hitoshi Motoyoshi M 1953 Japan Exp Manager Tokyo, Japan Film promoter Details Other expeditions
Hideo Koike M 1959 Japan Climber Hamamatsu, Shizuoka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Koji Nagagubo M 1969 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Gardener Details Other expeditions
Yukimasa Numano M 1965 Japan Climber Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Iwao Ogasawara M 1952 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Yumi Sunako F 1964 Japan Exp Doctor Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Taro Tanigawa M 1967 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Worker on tall buildings & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Yasunari Yamashita M 1939 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan President of import company Details Other expeditions
Yuichi Yoshida M 1970 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Santa Bahadur Ale M 1966 Nepal Climber Kathmandu Head constable Details Other expeditions
Gita Bahadur Joshi M 1958 Nepal Climber Taluwa, Okhaldhunga Police officer Details Other expeditions
Phul Bahadur Rai M - Nepal Climber Jubacheme, Solukhumbu Policeman Details Other expeditions
Gupta Bahadur Rana M 1945 Nepal Climber - Deputy Superintendent of Police Details Other expeditions
Ram Kaji Sivakoti M - Nepal Climber Sunkhani, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Lakcha Sange Sherpa M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbugaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Nuru Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tshering/Tshiring Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Dambar Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal H-A Worker Mukli, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tul Bahadur Tamang M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Da Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Muktu Lhakpa (Muktuk) Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Durge Bahadur Tamang M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GIMM95301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:274 (1996) -
GIMM95301 JAC Tanigawa, Taroh The First Successful Ascent of the Twins: Mt. Gimmigela - 91:A46-47 (1996) -
GIMM95301 JAC Tanigawa, Taroh The First Successful Ascent of the Twins: Mt. Gimmigela - 91:106-111 (1996) -
GIMM95301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199627401/Asia-Nepal-Gimmigela-First-Ascent-from-Nepal - - -