Ghenge Liru | 1963 E Face

A UK expedition to Ghenge Liru in 1963 via E Face, led by Peter Taylor. Summit reached on 28th May 1963. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2536
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GHEN63101
Peak ID GHEN
Year 1963
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Peter Taylor
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1963-05-23
Summit Date 1963-05-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 5
Total Days 10
Termination Date 1963-06-02
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6596
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/05,4725m),Biv(24/05,5640m),C1(26/05),C2(27/05,6400m),Smt(28/05)
Route Notes Peter Taylor - 17 May Leaving KTM 10:30 am tomorrow by truck to Trisuli Bazar where will sort loads, etc. Start marching day after 5 days to base camp site at 15,000 ft (4 days to Timure at 8-10,000 ft which is last village and from which turn east Langtang II and 1 day more to base camp). High camp (advance base) at 18,000 ft - 2 tents (4-man). High-altitude porter Pasang Sherpa from Darjeeling, 1 cook Ang Tenji, Pasang Phutar III from Darjeeling and 2 porters who help establish high camp at 18,000 ft and return to base. John Graham Rogers-Homan who goes along to base and looks after first aid. He is ex-RAF pilot officer; on his way back to Australia to be married where he was living in Sydney; is 27 years old, from London. Another camp at 20,000 ft - 1 tent. Ascent to summit made from here. "Attempt at summit in 1st week of June or not at all." Leave Trisuli Bazar 19 May arrive Timure 23 May arrive base 24 Apr arrive advance base 25 May Arrive 20,000 ft by 1 June at least. Had allowed 3 weeks for acclimatization and reconnaissance. Now because of customs difficulties in Calcutta, lost 2 weeks time, so no reconnaissance possible. Will pick one route, stick to it right or wrong: will be shortest route he can find which he thinks has fair chance of success. Taking Nepal flag only. Return by same route probably. Might possibly take look at Lirung but very much doubts weather will hold off and give time for this return (via Trisuli Bazar) betweem 14th and 20th to Kathmandu. Liaison officer will go as far as base camp only. No oxygen. Sprained left ankle; had it still when arrived KTM. "I'll do what I can to get to the top without risking my life." Going up West Spur of Ghenge Liru and then turn north on saddle between low peak and main peak; in saddle will be advance base camp probably. Sirdar with Swiss on both 1952 expeditions and Britain 1953, 1st ascent Chamlang (over 24,000 ft) in Everest area by Japanese 1962. 25 April 63 Peter Taylor, 42-year-old Brit living in Australia, near Adelaide (Orange, South Australia). Geophysicist for Pasadena geophysical exploration corporation). All Nepali expedition: Taylor only European; others: Pasang Putar III of Darjeeling and other Sherpas from Khumbu area try Ghenge Liru (Langtang II) 21,590 ft and if successful Lirung peak 23,770 ft. Doesn't know their climbing history: picked them because of nearness for most. Finish by end of May; has climbed in Switzerland, French, Canada, USA, Argentina and New Zealand; unmarried. Peak successfully climbed will go north from Kathmandu to Gosainkund towards Rasuwa to approach mountains from northwest: base camp on northwest side of Langtang II. Sounds as though lucky to get up Langtang II let alone Lirung. Financing himself. 6 May 63 says: "Langtang range has numerous peaks 20,000-23,000 ft highest being Langtang Lirung 23,760 ft which was several times unsuccessfully attempted by Swiss, German, British and Japanese teams. One of the Japanese teams lost several lives including its leaders 2 years ago attempting Langtang Lirung which is considered to be the toughest mountains in Nepalese Himalayas. Letter from Peter Taylor - May 1963 Your news about the American Everest Expedition success reached us just as I was preparing to come down from C1. I hope these frostbite cases are not too bad. We will back in KTM about of the 7th. The return will be via Gosainkund. We are remaining here for a couple of days so that I can recuperate somewhat. I do not think there is much wrong with me, just tired out after the mad dash to Langtang II. If I do have medical attention, I'll get them to examine my head first. I made it to base under my own steam - but only just! My Sherpas have been passing around me ever since. This will be the mailrunner's last trip. The whole affair much harder than expected. It is raining again - the monsoon has arrived!
Accidents -
Achievement Reached summit of Ghenge Liru (not Langtang Lirung)
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2440501
Year 1963
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter Taylor M 1921 UK Leader Adelaide, SA, Australia Geophysicist working in Australia Details Other expeditions
Pasang Phutar Sherpa M 1933 Nepal Sirdar Darjeeling, India Teacher in Darjeeling Mountaineering Institute Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Darjeeling, India - Details Other expeditions
Graham John Roger-Homan M 1935 UK BC Manager - Former RAF officer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GHEN63101 AAJ - - - 38:229 (1964) -
GHEN63101 HJ Taylor, Peter Langtang Himal - 25:69-76 (1964) -
GHEN63101 - Taylor, Peter Coopers Creek to Langtang II Angus & Robertson, London - T41
GHEN63101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196422901/Asia-Nepal-Langtang-Himal - - -
GHEN63101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/25/8/langtang-himalaya/ - - -