Gaurishankar | 1997 N Face-NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gaurishankar in 1997 via N Face-NE Ridge, led by Yasushi Yamanoi. Summit reached on 23rd September 1997. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2400
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUR97301
Peak ID GAUR
Year 1997
Season 3
Host Country 2
Route 1 N Face-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasushi Yamanoi
Sponsor Japan Gaurishankar Expedition 1997
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-09-04
Summit Date 1997-09-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 23
Termination Date 1997-09-27
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to route difficulty
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/09,4500m),Deposit(15/09,5500m),xxx(23/09,6300m)
Route Notes BC north of Palbugthangat at top of Schneider map on yak route Deposit at bottom of North Face High point at NE Ridge. After arrival at BC, Yamonoi checked East Face but little snow on rock face so reached North Face for solo attempt while Mrs Y. and Iwata went to NE Ridge from its north side. All 3 went to 5850m on NE Ridge (up ridge for acclimatization). At attack time Iwata's condition not good (poor acclimatization), so only the two Yamanoi's went up. Started midnight but after few minutes gave up because of many snow and ice avalanches. Changed route of attack for NE Ridge and started up at 10:00 pm 22 Sept from 5500m (deposit site) after waiting there for 2 days for snowfall to stop. Climbed till 4:00 am at 6300m where ridge became steep, narrow and many mushrooms and here no rope from ridge and climb finished. Slept in "deposit point" during acclimatization climb one night, 15 Sept and again for attack on 20 & 21 Sept. Reached NE Ridge at 5600m. Abandoned climb on 23rd because saw no other possible route except perhaps on North Face but face very dangerous because of many seracs falling. In colder weather may possible in mid-October. On 23rd returned to BC. Really this mountain from Tibet not feasible. Local people demanded much extra money and road frozen after end of Oct. Do not recommend climbing from Tibet.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453072
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-ne ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tomoji Inoue M 1969 Japan Climber Hiratsuka, Kanagawa, Japan Mountain porter Details Other expeditions
Mitsuhiro Iwata M 1958 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Window cleaner Details Other expeditions
Taeko Nagao Yamanoi F 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Hotel worker Details Other expeditions
Yasushi Yamanoi M 1965 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Mountaineering equipment advisor & mountain porter Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAUR97301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:351-352 (1998) -
GAUR97301 HIGH - - - 188:23 (Jul 1998) -
GAUR97301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199835103/Asia-Tibet-Gaurishankar-Northeast-Ridge-Attempt - - -