Gaurishankar | 1983 S Face

A Poland expedition to Gaurishankar in 1983 via S Face, led by Tadeusz Preyzner. Summit reached on 10th April 1983. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1526
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUR83102
Peak ID GAUR
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Tadeusz Preyzner
Sponsor Warsaw Mountaineering Expedition to Rolwaling Himalaya
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-03-31
Summit Date 1983-04-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1983-04-30
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to bad weather and heavy showfall
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/03,4000m),xxx(10/04,6000m)
Route Notes Acclimatization up to 5020m 4 April to 5 April, down to BC for rest and again up 8th April to 6000m 10 April and again down. 1 week very bad weather. 10th April went up for summit push. For 1st 3 days good weather and reached 6000m but again heavy snowfall. Had to wait 2 days for sun to thaw snow and 4 could descend and in night 24/25th could go down safely; went to BC and gave up. Left BC 30 April. Main problem was snowfall which brought avalanches. Also did not have right equipment: no place to pitch tents, so needed hanging tents. Would like to come back again, considering this spring as reconnaissance. Lindsay Griffin (email) - 12 Jan 2014 Poles made the first significant attempt on the South Face in 1983, coming in from the left to gain the steep, shallow couloir left of the Central Pillar. Wieslaw Grzybowski, Lech Kiedrowski, Andrzej Mirga and Tadeusz Preyzner reached ca 6000m before making a difficult retreat in heavy snowfall. In 1985 the same line was attempted by Tsuyoshi Ohizumi and Kensaku Sakai. Three years previously the latter had made a notable first ascent of 7163m Hachindar Chhish in the Karakoram. The Japanese pair climbed in three days to 6100m when Sakai fell and hit his head. They bivouacked and descended the next day, but at 5900m Sakai fell again, this time to the bottom of the face. Ohizumi was unable to locate his body and the face was left alone until 2011 when Stefan Glowacz, David Goettler and Klaus Fengler arrived to attempt the Central Pillar. The weather was so bad they were only able to climb a rope-length above the base before giving up.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447778
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Wieslaw Grzybowski M 1956 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Lech Kiedrowski M 1955 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Biochemist Details Other expeditions
Jolanta (Yola) Maciuch F 1952 Poland Exp Doctor Warsaw, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Andrez Mirga M 1954 Poland Climber Bukovina Tatra, Poland Ethonographer (specialising in national minorities) Details Other expeditions
Tadeusz Preyzner M 1952 Poland Leader Warsaw, Poland Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Hanna Prezedpelska-Preyzner F 1956 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAUR83102 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 58:244 (1984) -
GAUR83102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424405/Asia-Nepal-Gaurishankar-Attempt - - -