Gaurishankar | 1981 SW Face

A Spain expedition to Gaurishankar in 1981 via SW Face, led by Antonio Trabado De La Fuente. Summit reached on 21st October 1981. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1776
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUR81301
Peak ID GAUR
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Antonio Trabado De La Fuente
Sponsor Spanish Expedition to Gaurishanker 1981
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-09-25
Summit Date 1981-10-21
Summit Time -
Summit Days 26
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to difficult route
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/09,4800m),C1(03/10,5300m),xxx(21/10,6300m)
Route Notes Route impossible because almost no snow; difficult rock and ice. Tried to make route to left of American route on SW Face. BC - 4800m - 25 Sept C1 - 5300m - 3 Oct No C2; very difficult route with no place to put camp; only way to climb put in fixed ropes and bivouac on face. Highest point 6300m 21 Oct by Alonso, San Sebastian, Trabado De La Fuente. Stopped because difficult route, no food left. Route is possible with more people and equipment. 2 members sick and so 3 members carrying loads every day. No accidents, frostbite, serious illness (2 sick from stomach trouble and poor acclimatization). Arrived KTM yesterday afternoon. Javier - 9 Sept 81 Route = SW Face (US 1979 route) Leave KTM 10 Sept 11-12 days to BC. BC same as US 1979. Hope climb alpine-style; hope no fixed rope will be needed but have 200m. 6-8 days BC->summit->BC Have come to KTM from Karakorum (Gasherbrum II) so no need to acclimatize. Arrive BC 22-23 Sept If good weather, 15 Oct on top If bad weather, 31 Oct to 15 Nov No Sherpas above BC Oxygen medical only
Accidents 1 member Miro altitude sickness (descended to lower altitude)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447195
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Rosa Fernandez Arroyo F 1958 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Just finished studies as biologist Details Other expeditions
Ignacio (Inaki) Miro Viar M 1957 Spain Climber Algorta, Vizcaya, Spain Student of ceramics Details Other expeditions
Javier Alonso M 1957 Spain Climber Bilbao, Vizcaya, Spain Draftsman Details Other expeditions
Juan Jose (Juanjo) San Sebastian M 1955 Spain Climber Bilbao, Vizcaya, Spain Bank official Details Other expeditions
Antonio Trabado de la Fuente M 1958 Spain Leader Madrid, Spain City government official Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAUR81301 AAJ Trabado, Antonio - - 56:220-221 (1982) -
GAUR81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198222005/Asia-Nepal-Gaurishankar-Attempt - - -