Gaurishankar | 2013 S Face

A France expedition to Gaurishankar in 2013 via S Face, led by Jerome Para. Summit reached on 23rd October 2013. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8225
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUR13301
Peak ID GAUR
Year 2013
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jerome Para
Sponsor Gaurishankar Project 2013
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Simigaon->Kharka->Tongmalnang Valley
Basecamp Date 2013-10-01
Summit Date 2013-10-23
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 22
Total Days 24
Termination Date 2013-10-25
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6800m due to lateness in the day
High Point (m) 6800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/10,3750m),ABC(20/10,4900m),Biv1(21/10,5900m),Biv2(22/10,6400m),xxx(23/10,6800m)
Route Notes The team had an an acclimatization trip in Na valley, then had to wait in a long period of bad weather from the 1st of October until the 19th of October. Fortunately, the valley accumulated not too much snow, so the team could start its proper ascent from the 20th of October, where it reached ABC (the approach to the BC and to the ABC are just not at all looking like on the Finn Map's drawing: the lowest part below 3750m (French BC this season) has to be secured in case of hiring porters, and there are steep rock barriers around 4000m, then grass slopes before reaching the ABC). From the 21st October, the route started first by conturning from right to left a pillar located on the left side of the kind of main central gully of the whole South Face, then coming back from left to right to join the central gully, climbing it before escaping at the highest part of the face by a right-sided ramp system, with a hook at the end to eventually reach the summit plateau. The team stopped near the extreme South Summit (around 6800m) of this southern plateau. It was the 23rd October at 4 pm. Then the team abseiled down all the night, reaching its ABC at 4 am on the 24th October, then the ABC at 12 am. The team roughly estimates the overall grade of the route as extremly difficult (ED grade). There were 5 previous attempts of the South Face: 3 intended to climb directly up by the proper South Face (last in 2011 by David Goettler and Stefan Glowacz, who couldn't climb properly due to the moutain conditions; Japanese and Polish before that in the 1980's, the first who abandoned at 6000m due to a fall), 2 used partly it whether by the left (South Face to the SW Ridge, first ascent by a Yugoslavian team in 1983) or the right (South Face to the SE Ridge, British in 1995, with no success) side of the face. This ascent can be considered as the "proper" first one of the South Face.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458917
Year 2013
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mathieu Maurice Paul Detrie M 1983 France Climber Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Julien Labbre M 1981 France Climber Servoz, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mathieu Bernard Maynadier M 1984 France Climber Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jerome Alexander Benoit Para M 1981 France Leader Servoz, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAUR13301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay - - 88:310-311 (2014) -
GAUR13301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212619/Gaurishankar-to-Point-6850m-south-face-Peine-Prolonge - - -