Gaugiri | 2004 E Ridge of unnamed peak in Tibet

A Japan expedition to Gaugiri in 2004 via E Ridge of unnamed peak in Tibet, led by Kiyoshi Ishii. Summit reached on 4th July 2004. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4632
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUG04201
Peak ID GAUG
Year 2004
Season 2
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge of unnamed peak in Tibet
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kiyoshi Ishii
Sponsor Club Yeti Mustang Expedition Summer 2004
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jomsom->Chlomnang->Yara->Gumathati->Damodar Kunde Khola
Basecamp Date 2004-07-04
Summit Date 2004-07-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 7
Termination Date 2004-07-11
Termination Reason 12
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 5400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 100
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed E Ridge of unnamed peak in Tibet
Campsites BC(04/07,5400m),C1(04/07,5800m),Tibetan Mountain(07/07,6530m)
Route Notes BC north of Gaugiri C1 at East Ridge of Tibetan Peak. From BC went east into Tibet and climbed a mountain of 6530m height via its East Ridge. Mountain has no name and is just over the border from Nepal. Had C1 at 5800m on 5 July. Harada turned back at 6300m because "not good condition" on 7th for summit push (team had gone to BC on 5th and 6th returned to C1). Summit reached on 7th by Ishii and Panima Sherpa and Kumar Rai and all return to BC on 7th. Was easy snow ridge; 100m rope fixed on ridge. Ishii went to this Tibetan mountain because local people pointed to it as Gaugiri, but when he reached this summit on a very clear day, he saw that Gaugiri was actually the mountain he had climbed in autumn '02 (which he had thought then he had failed on) and now was on a mountain just east of it. Ishii's report to Tourism Ministry on return from climb: Arrived BC on 4 July at 5400m, established C1 on 7 th July at 5800m, then "due to continous bad weather conditions for 3 days, we gave up to climb further from 5800m". Left BC 11 July.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of Tibetan peak
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455510
Year 2004
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge of unnamed peak in tibet

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Masaaki Harada M 1954 Japan Climber Atsugi, Kanagawa, Japan Retired staff member of Sony Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Ishii M 1948 Japan Leader Hatano, Kanagawa, Japan Mountain lodge manager Details Other expeditions
Kumar Rai M 1975 Nepal H-A Worker Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Panima (Pa Nima) Sherpa M 1951 Nepal H-A Worker Solu Salong, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAUG04201 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 79:383 (2005) -
GAUG04201 CLIM - - - 12:67 (Feb 2006) -
GAUG04201 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200538302/Asia-Nepal-Mustang-Region-Damodar-Himal-Peak-6350m-First-Ascent - - -