Gaugiri | 2002 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Gaugiri in 2002 via W Ridge, led by Makoto Nebuka. Summit reached on 30th July 2002. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4063
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAUG02201
Peak ID GAUG
Year 2002
Season 2
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Makoto Nebuka
Sponsor Nebuka Makoto Yukiotoko Expedition to Gaugiri
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2002-07-20
Summit Date 2002-07-30
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 10
Termination Date 2002-07-30
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5750m due to Nebuka's weariness
High Point (m) 5750
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed unnamed 6000m mountain
Campsites BC(20/07,5400m),xxx(30/07,5750m)
Route Notes Damodar Kunda High point on West Ridge. Left KTM on 7 July by car to Pokhara and then [flew] to Jomsom. Then to Tilicho Lake area to acclimatize and returned to Jomsom on 12 July. Trekked from Jomsom to Kagbeni, Chuksang, Ghami, Chhering, Tange, Yara, Luri Gampa, Damodar Kunda. Spent 10 days at Damodar Kunda search that area, (Nepal government's map gives altitude as 5400m, but Nebuka strongly "feels" its is 4600m). Team consisted of just Nebuka and 23 years old Kami Sherpa. Nebuka went alone on 26th July to 6000m unnamed mountain on Tibet border north of Gaugiri; went to its summit via very easy North Ridge but were many crevasses to mountain's plateau top. Made a camp on 26 July at noon on glacier, started to top at 2:00 pm, on top at 5:55 pm, returned to camp at 7:30 pm; returned to BC 27th. Had made his first attempt on this mountain on 24th but without success and returned to BC same day. 28th rested at BC. 29th tried to move east to Gaugiri but was confronted by sizeable Damodar Kunda River and gave up. 30th again went east to river and now crossed it on horse back early in the morning (6:00 am) and reached between 5700-5800m at 12:15 pm. Nebuka was already tired when he went to Gaugiri, so took Kami with him on this day's climb. Ridge was very easy but Nebuka too tired to continue and returned to BC same day trekked to Guma Thati. 31 July to Gora, 1 August to Chuksang, 2nd to Ghami, 3rd to Chhele, 4th to Jomsom, 5th by plane to Pokhara and 6th to KTM.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of unnamed mountain
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454803
Year 2002
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Makoto Nebuka M 1947 Japan Leader Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Writer Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAUG02201 HIGH - - - 252:53 (Nov 2003) -