Gaugiri | 2002 SW Ridge
A USA expedition to Gaugiri in 2002 via SW Ridge, led by Peter Ackroyd. Summit reached on 28th May 2002. 2 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4062 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GAUG02101 |
| Peak ID | GAUG |
| Year | 2002 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Peter Ackroyd |
| Sponsor | Cowboys in Damodar Himal |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Kagbeni->Chuwang->NE to Tange & Yara->SE to Gumathati |
| Basecamp Date | 2002-05-26 |
| Summit Date | 2002-05-28 |
| Summit Time | 1320 |
| Summit Days | 2 |
| Total Days | 3 |
| Termination Date | 2002-05-29 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6110 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 2 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(26/05,5400m),Smt(28/05) |
| Route Notes | BC west of Gaugiri. Actually got to BC on 23 May and bived, but porters and cook had gone to lakes and gompas south of there and went away to meet staff and return to set up camp. 26th and 27th snowfall so stayed in BC till 28th morning in relatively good weather. 28 May at 7:30 am left camp to make ascent via SW Ridge. Steep 45-55 degrees in sections of snow that was good underfoot; narrow ridge of 2 ft some places, 5 ft width with some loose rock sections also. Impossible to fix rope on route; "nice long classic route" (Frush). Gaugiri right on Tibetan border and dominates area, high peak of a long southeast rRidge and great views of Tibet. Got to top at 1:20 pm and back 4:30-5:00 pm after an hour on top enjoying dramatic views including Dhaulagiri. No vegetation in region which is extremely arid, so local people don't go there to graze. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | 1st ascent in first known attempt |
| Agency | Jai Himal Trekking |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2454740 |
| Year | 2002 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
2 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peter David Ackroyd | M | 1946 | USA | Leader | Seattle, Washington | Retired construction consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| C. James (Jim) Frush | M | 1950 | USA | Climber | Bainbridge Island, Washington | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GAUG02101 | HIGH | - | - | - | 244:60-61 (Mar 2003) | - |
| GAUG02101 | AAJ | Ackroyd, Peter | - | - | 77:385-386 (2003) | - |
| GAUG02101 | AAJ | Griffin, Lindsay | - | - | 80:406-408 (2006) | - |
| GAUG02101 | CLIM | - | - | - | 12:66 (Feb 2006) | - |
| GAUG02101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200640600/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Damodar-Himal-Pt-6417m-First-Ascent-Corrections-to-Some-Previous-Reports-on-Gaugiri | - | - | - |
| GAUG02101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200338500/Asia-Nepal-Damodar-Himal-Gaugiri-First-Ascent | - | - | - |