Gangapurna West | 2017 N Face

A Italy expedition to Gangapurna West in 2017 via N Face, led by Simon Messner. Summit reached on 18th September 2017. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9661
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GANW17301
Peak ID GANW
Year 2017
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Simon Messner
Sponsor Italian Gangapurna West Expedition 2017
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Manang->Tilicho Lake->BC
Basecamp Date 2017-09-07
Summit Date 2017-09-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2017-09-23
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to loss of tent and equipment
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/09,5000m),C1(12/09,6000m),C2(18,22/09,6200m),xxx
Route Notes BC 07/09 5000m (in between two moraines) C1 12/09 6000m C2 18/09 6200m HPt 18/09,22/09 6200m. According to Messner, they were not attempting Tarke Kang (aka Glacier Dome), but Tharke Kang, which is east of it and is 7140m. [This peak is also known as Gangapurna West, Asapurna, or Lachenal Peak and is on the Ministry list of open peaks. This appears to be the first attempt from the north side.] Upon arrival weather was good, however, there was a lot of snow. Trail breaking up to the knees, sometimes hips. Route itself not too technically difficult. About 70 degrees. The first time they reached 6000m they pitched a tent and stayed the night. However, before they set up their tent an avalanche came down at about 5:30 pm and took both climbers with it. Pruenster was in the avalanche for about 10 metres and nearly got swept down the abyss, but stopped before. They pitched tent on the debris at 6000m and stayed the night. The next day they descended to BC. Bad weather period followed. A few days later they climbed back for another acclimatization rotation. They pitched their tent a bit higher at 6200m and it snowed a lot during the night and everything got wet. They descended the following day. Complete whiteout, but they made it back to BC. The following three days snowfall. On 22 Sept, Messner climbed back up in very good conditions with the new snow being frozen. This time, Pruenster did not go up with him due to stomach problems. Messner was intending to head for the summit due to the excellent conditions; however, when he reached the spot where the tent was, it was gone. Probably swept away by an avalanche. He dug for two hours, but could not find anything. He descended back to BC. Climb abandoned due to missing material. They were both very lucky as they were not in the tent when avalanche came down. Team left BC on 23 Sept and returned to Ktmdu on 29 Sept by trekking back to Manang and then Besisahar. Oxygen: Nnot taken, not used.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463632
Year 2017
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Simon Geasar Messner M 1990 Italy Leader Merano, South Tyrol, Italy Biologist Details Other expeditions
Philipp Pruenster M 1989 Italy Climber Algund, South Tyrol, Italy Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GANW17301 - - https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/reinhold-messner-visits-base-camp-simon-prepares-tare-khang-ascent/ - - -
GANW17301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214487/Gangapurna-West-North-Face-Attempt - - -
GANW17301 AAJ Popier, Rodolphe Gangapurna West, North Face, Attempt - 92:316 (2018) -