Gangapurna | 1990 N Face

A France expedition to Gangapurna in 1990 via N Face, led by Pierre Neyret. Summit reached on 22nd October 1990. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 668
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GANG90301
Peak ID GANG
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Pierre Neyret
Sponsor Gangapurna 1990
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-09-30
Summit Date 1990-10-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6440m due to lack of strength of team
High Point (m) 6440
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/09,4850m),C1(05/10,5400m),xxx(22/10,6440m)
Route Notes BC south of Khangsar just below east of rock C1 at bottom of spurs running west from NE Ridge. Avalanche danger from Tarke Kang (1 big one came down), so pitched C1 well to east of it. After 5th Oct put 200m rope up face of N Ridge, then to BC. Deslandres got sick and went to Manang aid post with J Neyret, leaving only 2 climbers. J Neyret returned after 3 days and up to C1 (all 3 climbers) and up onto face to fix more rope and reached 6000m. Then 1 day snowfall. Stayed 1 day in C1 while 30 cm snow fell. Next day 14th Oct to BC to wait out avalanches, 1 day in BC. Deslandres now returned from Manang but not very strong. 17th Oct 4 climbers again to C1. 18th fixed rope to 6100m, 19th rested in C1, 20th fixed rope to 6400m, 21st Deslandres to BC and others rested in C1. 22nd Beatrix and P Neyret left C1 for top but at end of fixed rope P Neyret too tired and cold so he stopped. Beatrix wanted to go on up alone but bag of food fixed on face now fell down face when handled so he down also to C1. Now Beatrix only climber willing to continue but now not interested in solo attempt from C1 (had no Himalayan experience). With no Sherpas and only small team of members were now tired. Face snow and ice 50-60 steepness and difficult.
Accidents None except Deslandres sick
Achievement -
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450492
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bruno Beatrix M 1963 France Climber Viron, Isere, France Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Eric Deslandres M 1960 France Climber Chambery, Savoie, France Commercial agent (for equipment to prevent avalanches) Details Other expeditions
Elisabeth Neyret F 1961 France Climber Chambery, Savoie, France Secretary Details Other expeditions
Jacques Neyret M 1959 France Climber Chambery, Savoie, France Advertising artist Details Other expeditions
Pierre Neyret M 1964 France Leader Chambery, Savoie, France Computer programmer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GANG90301 AAJ Neyret, Pierre - - 65:239 (1991) -
GANG90301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199123903/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna-Northwest-Face-Attempt - - -