Gangapurna | 1989 N Face-NE Ridge

A Yugoslavia expedition to Gangapurna in 1989 via N Face-NE Ridge, led by Franc Pusnik. Summit reached on 1st October 1989. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 337
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GANG89301
Peak ID GANG
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Franc Pusnik
Sponsor Slovenian Gangapurna N Face Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 12th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marshyangdi->Manang
Basecamp Date 1989-09-06
Summit Date 1989-10-01
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 25
Total Days 28
Termination Date 1989-10-04
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7455
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1100
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/09,5200m),C1(08/09,5500m),C2(24/09,6800m),Smt(01/10)
Route Notes BC at moraine northwest of mountain C1 at moraine C2 at North Face. Bergschrund at 5900m. Lots of trouble with frequent snowfall and many minor avalanches, would have been dangerous to climb without fixed ropes. Had to go up and down between C1 and C2 often because of this, when snow consolidated and threatened slab avalanche. Also problem to get ropes out from under snow. Fixed 800m of rope at first. Another 300m of rope fixed from bergschrund to C2. 1st summit bid by 4 (except Pusnik) when established C2, exhausted and bad weather, so turned back. 2nd summit bid 28th Sept from BC. Only 29th Kolar and Misev to C2 in bad weather, improved campsite (1 member returned down on 29th). 30th many avalanches so stayed in C2; 30th night clear but -30 degrees. Started up at 5:00 am on 1st Oct with rope, came to rocks in total darkness but now getting light; 65-degrees to 72-degrees steep ice couloir (ice over broken rock - 400m long) and then longer snow field 60-degrees steep where used rope; arrived at summit 2:00 pm in deeper snow (above knee near top). Descended same route and arrived C2 6:00 pm, tired because of hard work in deep snow. No more summit attempt since summit success and left BC 4th Oct.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st Yugoslav ascent in 1st attempt
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450105
Year 1989
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-ne ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Andrej Gradisnik M 1963 Yugoslavia Deputy Leader Ravne, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Metallurgy student Details Other expeditions
Rok Kolar M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Ravne, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Edvard (Edi) Krebs M 1966 Yugoslavia Climber Ravne, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Stanko Mihev M 1957 Yugoslavia Climber Ravne, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Electrical technician Details Other expeditions
Franc Pusnik M 1956 Yugoslavia Leader Ravne, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanical technician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GANG89301 AAJ Pusnik, Franc - - 64:249 (1990) -
GANG89301 MM - - - 131:5 (Jan 1990) -
GANG89301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199024901/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna-North-Face - - -