Gangapurna | 1974 E Ridge from S

A Japan expedition to Gangapurna in 1974 via E Ridge from S, led by Toshio Noshi. Summit reached on 13th May 1974. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2326
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GANG74101
Peak ID GANG
Year 1974
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Toshio Noshi
Sponsor Osaka Gangapurna Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola
Basecamp Date 1974-03-30
Summit Date 1974-05-13
Summit Time 1715
Summit Days 44
Total Days 48
Termination Date 1974-05-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7455
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/03,4100m),C1(06/04,4990m),C2(18/04,5740m),C3(25/04,6330m),C4.Biv(13/04,6850m),Smt(13/04)
Route Notes Dr Sumiyoshi & Noshi - 19 May 78 No falls, no accidents; all members good health. 3 Japanese members Toshio Noshi, Osamu Nonaka and Dr Kaoru Sumiyoshi and LO sick; arrive today by helicopter. Today caravan to Hinko, reach Pokhara 23 May and 24 KTM. Only members made route, Sherpas did not Attack team left from C3 13 May 6 am left C3; left one tent at C4 site, reached top 5:15 pm and returned to C4 (biv) at 10 pm very tired but strong. Returned to C3 next day. Support [Okano and Shibano] in C3, no oxygen in C3 and no oxygen to summit. One attack on summit only as monsoon coming. 1st try Ok and last chance: Sherpas no move and members very tired. Between C3 and C4 500m icefall very difficult (Germans found very easy 1st time). Always same route as German route. Between C1 and C2 many seracs and Sherpas very afraid; later than scheduled because of Sherpas. MP Khanal, MFA - ? May 74 Takeshi Kikusawa and Shinsuke Fujiwara summited 17 May 5:15 pm and returned to C4 at 11 pm 6850m which these two had established same day. Left C3 6 am same day. Expedition leaves BC 17 May. MP Khanal, MFA - 5 May 74 C3 6330m, 25 April by 3 members; had minor accident 19 April fall of 30 meters by 1 member but very minor injuries. Prabul Rana, MFA - 8 April 74 BC 30 March, 13:30 hrs, 4100m Climbed up to sites after 31 March, 4800m - C1 5500m - C2 Arai - 2 March 74 KTM -> Pokhara by truck BC in upper Modi Khola Route German East Ridge from S 1971 Shinzu - West Ridge from S 1971 Spr ? 1 sirdar (Dawa Tenzing), 4 Sherpas
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444470
Year 1974
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge from s

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Toshio Noshi M 1925 Japan Leader Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Public high school teacher (math and physics) Details Other expeditions
Seiichi Sakamoto M 1941 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Staff member, Atsugi-Nylon Co. (stocking company) Details Other expeditions
Osamu Nonaka M 1942 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Engineer of Nonaka Co. Details Other expeditions
Nobuyoshi Arai M 1945 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Staff member, Denki Danbo Co. Details Other expeditions
Tadashi Nutaba M 1945 Japan Climber Hyogo-shi, Hyogo, Japan Air-conditioning engineer Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Kikusawa M 1945 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Shinsuke Fujiwara M 1948 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Shigeo Shibano M 1951 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Masaru Doi M 1949 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Kaoru Sumiyoshi M 1925 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Yoshinori Okano M 1943 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GANG74101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 49:203 (1975) -
GANG74101 HJ Noshi, Toshio Gangapurna, 1974 - 33:46-48 (1973-74) -
GANG74101 MM - - - 37:9 (Jul 1974) -
GANG74101 IWA - - - 42:26-27 (1975) -
GANG74101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520301/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna - - -
GANG74101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/10/gangapurna-1974/ - - -