Gangapurna | 1974 E Ridge from S
A Japan expedition to Gangapurna in 1974 via E Ridge from S, led by Toshio Noshi. Summit reached on 13th May 1974. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2326 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GANG74101 |
| Peak ID | GANG |
| Year | 1974 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | E Ridge from S |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Toshio Noshi |
| Sponsor | Osaka Gangapurna Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 4th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Modi Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1974-03-30 |
| Summit Date | 1974-05-13 |
| Summit Time | 1715 |
| Summit Days | 44 |
| Total Days | 48 |
| Termination Date | 1974-05-17 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7455 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(30/03,4100m),C1(06/04,4990m),C2(18/04,5740m),C3(25/04,6330m),C4.Biv(13/04,6850m),Smt(13/04) |
| Route Notes | Dr Sumiyoshi & Noshi - 19 May 78 No falls, no accidents; all members good health. 3 Japanese members Toshio Noshi, Osamu Nonaka and Dr Kaoru Sumiyoshi and LO sick; arrive today by helicopter. Today caravan to Hinko, reach Pokhara 23 May and 24 KTM. Only members made route, Sherpas did not Attack team left from C3 13 May 6 am left C3; left one tent at C4 site, reached top 5:15 pm and returned to C4 (biv) at 10 pm very tired but strong. Returned to C3 next day. Support [Okano and Shibano] in C3, no oxygen in C3 and no oxygen to summit. One attack on summit only as monsoon coming. 1st try Ok and last chance: Sherpas no move and members very tired. Between C3 and C4 500m icefall very difficult (Germans found very easy 1st time). Always same route as German route. Between C1 and C2 many seracs and Sherpas very afraid; later than scheduled because of Sherpas. MP Khanal, MFA - ? May 74 Takeshi Kikusawa and Shinsuke Fujiwara summited 17 May 5:15 pm and returned to C4 at 11 pm 6850m which these two had established same day. Left C3 6 am same day. Expedition leaves BC 17 May. MP Khanal, MFA - 5 May 74 C3 6330m, 25 April by 3 members; had minor accident 19 April fall of 30 meters by 1 member but very minor injuries. Prabul Rana, MFA - 8 April 74 BC 30 March, 13:30 hrs, 4100m Climbed up to sites after 31 March, 4800m - C1 5500m - C2 Arai - 2 March 74 KTM -> Pokhara by truck BC in upper Modi Khola Route German East Ridge from S 1971 Shinzu - West Ridge from S 1971 Spr ? 1 sirdar (Dawa Tenzing), 4 Sherpas |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2444470 |
| Year | 1974 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | e ridge from s |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Toshio Noshi | M | 1925 | Japan | Leader | Kobe, Hyogo, Japan | Public high school teacher (math and physics) | Details Other expeditions |
| Seiichi Sakamoto | M | 1941 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Staff member, Atsugi-Nylon Co. (stocking company) | Details Other expeditions |
| Osamu Nonaka | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Engineer of Nonaka Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuyoshi Arai | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Staff member, Denki Danbo Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Tadashi Nutaba | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Hyogo-shi, Hyogo, Japan | Air-conditioning engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takeshi Kikusawa | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Shinsuke Fujiwara | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeo Shibano | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Masaru Doi | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Kaoru Sumiyoshi | M | 1925 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshinori Okano | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GANG74101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 49:203 (1975) | - |
| GANG74101 | HJ | Noshi, Toshio | Gangapurna, 1974 | - | 33:46-48 (1973-74) | - |
| GANG74101 | MM | - | - | - | 37:9 (Jul 1974) | - |
| GANG74101 | IWA | - | - | - | 42:26-27 (1975) | - |
| GANG74101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520301/Asia-Nepal-Gangapurna | - | - | - |
| GANG74101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/10/gangapurna-1974/ | - | - | - |