Gangapurna | 2016 S Face
A S Korea expedition to Gangapurna in 2016 via S Face, led by Kim Chang-Ho. Summit reached on 20th October 2016. 3 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 9271 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GANG16301 |
| Peak ID | GANG |
| Year | 2016 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | S Korea |
| Leaders | Kim Chang-Ho |
| Sponsor | Korean-Way Gangapurna & Gangapurna West (Lachenal) Expedition 2016 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Modi Khola |
| Basecamp Date | - |
| Summit Date | 2016-10-20 |
| Summit Time | 1245 |
| Summit Days | 0 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | 2016-10-23 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7455 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 3 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Attempted Gangapurna West (GANW-163-01) |
| Campsites | BC(4034m),Biv1(16/10,5806m),Biv2(17/10,6000m),Biv3(18/10,6800m),Biv4(19/10,7100m),Smt(20/10) |
| Route Notes | From https://allezandy.blogspot.com: A Korean team of three climbers led by Kim Chang-Ho just opened a new route on the south wall of the Nepalese mountain Gangapurna (7455m), which is located in the central part of the Annapurna's range. The team included Kim Chang-Ho, Choi Seok-Moon and Park Jeong-Yong. The expedition started on September 12 with a trekking through the Annapurna's valley to the base camp, near the southern wall of the mountain, at 2900m. After the acclimatization period, the team launched its assault, climbing for 6 nights and 7 days. The route was climbed in lightweight alpine style, without sherpas and oxygen. The descent took another three days. The whole expedition lasted 22 days. From AAJ (via Rodolphe Popier): Used the same approach as for Gangapurna West, climbing to their first bivouac, then traversing east onto the upper glacier. 16 Oct: left BC with 8-10 kg sacs, two 7.5mm-60m ropes, six screws, three pickets, one two-person tent, a short pad, a gas stove, and food. Slept at 5806m bivouac 17 Oct: had second bivouac at 6000m afoot of the South Face. 18 Oct: climbed lower part of the South Face, having a miserable bivouac at 6800m. 19 Oct: "climbed the rock barrier above direct; nine pitches of mixed terrain with thin ice over steep rock. Eventually, a narrow icefall led to a low-angle slope". Bivouac in the middle of this slope at 7100m, without food, but hot water. 20 Oct: reached the top. 21-22 Oct: descended in 2 days via the same 1500m wall, using natural gear, snow bollards, and Abalakovs, leaving only two snow pickets on the mountain. Route is called "Korean Way" (1500m/ED+). |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Trekking Camp Nepal |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2460013 |
| Year | 2016 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s face |
Members
3 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chang-Ho Kim | M | 1969 | S Korea | Leader | Seoul, S Korea | Outdoor company consultant & alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Suk-Mun Choi | M | 1974 | S Korea | Climber | Seoul, S Korea | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Jung-Yong Park | M | 1976 | S Korea | Climber | Seoul, S Korea | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GANG16301 | - | - | http://glacierhub.org/tag/chang-ho-kim/ | - | - | - |
| GANG16301 | - | - | https://allezandy.blogspot.com/2016/10/mountaineering-new-route-on-gangapurna.html | - | - | - |
| GANG16301 | - | - | http://everest.cocolog-nifty.com/gassan/2016/10/post-6a0f.html | - | - | - |
| GANG16301 | - | - | http://www.emountain.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=13211 | - | - | - |
| GANG16301 | AAN | Kim, Chang-Ho | 'Korean Way' on Gangapurna and Gangapurna West, Nepal | - | 5:37-46 (Mar 2017) | - |
| GANG16301 | AAJ | Kim, Chang-Ho | The Korean Way | - | 91:316-318 (2017) | - |
| GANG16301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214165/Gangapurna-South-Face-Direct-Korean-Way-Gangapurna-West-South-Face-Almost-to-Summit | - | - | - |