Ganchenpo | 2024 N Face (up), W Ridge (down)

A Germany expedition to Ganchenpo in 2024 via N Face (up), W Ridge (down), led by David Goettler. Summit reached on 15th November 2024. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11490
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GANC24303
Peak ID GANC
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (up), W Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders David Goettler
Sponsor German-Swiss Ganchenpo Expedition 2024
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland
Approach Langtang Valley->Kyanjin Gompa (BC)
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 2024-11-15
Summit Time 0830
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6378
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC,C1(14/11,4760m),Smt(15/11)
Route Notes Report form David Goettler (by email, 1 Jan 2025): We hiked from Kyanjin Gompa to just before the glacier descending northwest from the north face of Ganchempo on the first day. Here, we set up camp and spent the night, starting our ascent at around 3 am the next morning. Initially, we considered climbing a mixed route to the right of the north face, but upon closer inspection, it appeared too thin and fragmented. We decided instead to ascend the glacier to the base of the north face. There, we selected a line slightly right of center and climbed it almost entirely simul-climbing without a rope, except for the final 60 meters leading to the summit ridge. Once we reached the ridge, we continued for approximately 100 meters to the summit. On the summit we spotted some fresh fixed ropes down on the normal route towards the southwest. We decided to descend this route, circling around the mountain back to our tent. After a brief rest, we packed our gear and resumed the hike back toward Kyanjin Gompa. Upon reaching the main valley, we chose to spend another night before continuing to the village the next day. Timeline: • 14 Nov: 5h 20m - Kyanjin Gompa to the start of glacier • 15 Nov: 4h - Camp 4760m to the north face; 4h - start of the north face to summit; 4h - Summit back to camp at 4760m; 3h - Camp back toward Kyanjin Gompa; 15hrs total. • 16 Nov: 2h - Hike back to Kyanjin Gompa. Technical Details: • Maximum difficulty: 80° ice at some sections. • Average incline: 65–70°. FB entry by Nicolas Hojac 24/11/24 Ganchempo 6387m, a majestic mountain at the back of the Langtang valley. @david_goettler and my plan was to climb one of the fine ice lines in the right-hand section of the north face, but as we stood at the base and the first light touched the wall, we quickly realized that the planned line looked better from a distance than it did up close. The ice was old, very thin in places and no longer completely continuous. The rock looked very crumbly and promised little potential for protection. We were torn whether we should risk it or not. We had no bivouac equipment with us. Our style was to simply climb up and down as quickly as possible. We were also worried by the wind forecast, which reported winds of over 70 km/h at 7000m. It can get pretty uncomfortable on a north face on a 6000m peak. After a brief analysis and discussion of the other options, we decided to try to climb the classic north face. Although this has already had two ascents, it is still a cool line on this mountain. We continued to navigate over the glacier and traversed to the face. After the bergschrund, we cleared the rope and climbed up one of the many gullies. The terrain was not challenging and the conditions were perfect. We made rapid progress and shortly below the exit we decided to take out the rope again for the last 60m. The face steepened towards the ridge and we preferred to protect the short 80° steep section. The last 15m to the ridge were tough again and we had to fight with the notorious sugar snow. On the ridge I was already expecting strong gusts of wind, but there was hardly any. Once again, we were lucky. We made the last few steps to the summit and shaked hands. What a wonderful moment to be standing up here! In the distance we could see the 8027m high Shishapangma, to the left the Langtang Lirung. We descended again via the normal route and reached the camp 12 hours after our start.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalaya Vision
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465939
Year 2024
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (up), w ridge (down)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
David Johannes Goettler M 1978 Germany Leader Munich, Bavaria, Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Hojac M 1992 Switzerland Climber Interlaken Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GANC24303 - - https://explorersweb.com/goettler-and-hojac-climb-north-face-of-ganchenpo/ - - -