Ganesh V | 1994 S Ridge/Spur

A Slovenia expedition to Ganesh V in 1994 via S Ridge/Spur, led by Stane Belak. Summit reached on 13th November 1994. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1362
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN594301
Peak ID GAN5
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge/Spur
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Stane Belak
Sponsor General Himal Expedition 1994 Slovenia to Ganesh V
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Trisuli River->Thanjet east of Chilime Khola->Gupchong Khola
Basecamp Date 1994-10-22
Summit Date 1994-11-13
Summit Time 1810
Summit Days 22
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1994-11-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6770
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/10,4300m),C1(04/10,5200m),C2(01/11,6000m),Smt(13/11)
Route Notes BC at bottom of SSE Ridge at gear and stone C1 at glacier at start of ridge C2 at top of serac on SSE Ridge. From C1 to top distance much geater than Belak had estimated in spring & then was lot of snow but now bare rock & ice & water falls & lots of snow fall so did not try new route on SW Face, which is impossible in Aut. So climbed ridge which is quite easy to go up & quite safe. Daily snow & for a very little & gave soon. If had come 14 days earlier & thus had 14 more days, could have climbed SW Face & W Ridge. Found much Japanese fixed rope hanging crazily now from 1987 autumn Japanese climb. 4 Nov made summit bid from C2 but in more than 12 hrs reached 6750m at summit rocks; here headlamp batteries failed & had to go back 150m (linear meters) from top at too difficult rock to climb in darkness. Next summit party too old & unable to handle difficulty; reached between C1 & C2 Nov 8-10th Nov. Griljc, Humar & Belak started from BC; 11th to C2; 12th 2:30 am from C2 but very windy, couldn't see where going, very cold feet of Humar & Griljc so back to C2 & Griljc down to BC because chest problem; Humar & Belak stayed in C2 through snowfall all day; 13th left C2 at 7:30 am (too late) climbed ice to upper plateau & small snow ridge; at 11 am on plateau where waist-deep snow which had fallen in previous 10 days, difficult to cross; above hard ice and 100m rock climbing; at start had used last piton on 70-degree steep ice just below 80-100m to summit; reached top 6:10 pm, descent dangerous with feeble headlamps in very cold [weather]; got to C2 at 10:30 pm: got slightly frostbitten toes. Took all next day to descend to BC over sticky snow which clung to boots. Very long route.
Accidents Vettorazzi stomach trouble; 2 summiters slight frostbite
Achievement 1st non-Japanese attempt
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451979
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge/spur

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bozidar (Dare) Alic M 1954 Slovenia Deputy Leader Ljubljana, Slovenia Technician Details Other expeditions
Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf M 1940 Slovenia Leader Kamnik, Slovenia Hospital equipment designer Details Other expeditions
Vinko Bercic-Cenko M 1959 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Hospital equipment designer Details Other expeditions
Vincenc Griljc M 1933 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Economist Details Other expeditions
Tomaz Humar M 1969 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Gregor Kresal M 1969 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Architecture student Details Other expeditions
Franc Vettorazzi-Strancar M 1952 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Technician Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN594301 AAJ Savenc, Franci - - 69:250 (1995) -
GAN594301 HIGH - - - 151:14 (Jun 1995) -
GAN594301 - McDonald, Bernadette Tomaz Humar Hutchinson, London - -
GAN594301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199525003/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-V - - -