Ganesh V | 1980 NE Ridge-N Face-NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Ganesh V in 1980 via NE Ridge-N Face-NW Ridge, led by Yoshio Nagao. Summit reached on 21st April 1980. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1907
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN580101
Peak ID GAN5
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge-N Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yoshio Nagao
Sponsor Jikei Univ of Medicine & Nepal Joint Expedition to Ganesh
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st,2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Trisuli->Chilime Khola->Sangeng Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1980-03-22
Summit Date 1980-04-21
Summit Time 1152
Summit Days 30
Total Days 35
Termination Date 1980-04-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6770
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/03,3750m),C1(26/03,4350m),C2(31/03,4950m),C3(14/04,5730m),C4(20/04,6300m),Smt(21-22/04)
Route Notes Saito & Komori - 1 May 80 Most difficult part = C2 to C3 ice face, difficult cutting steps in ice No accidents frostbite or illness, very happy climbing No attempt on Ganesh II or any other peak Other 5 members trekking Gosainkund; arrive KTM 5 May Route = NE Ridge across N Face (a snow face) to NW Ridge as per sketch. Shailendra Raj Sharma Tourism - 1 May 80 Ganesh V all Japanese climbed 2nd summit success on 22 April by: 1) Norimasa Okabe 2) Kinichi Hamagichi, 1941, pathologist, Tokyo 3) Takeshi Shinohara, 1948, Ichikawa, Chiba 4) Saburo Saito, 1957 5) Zimba Zangbu 6) Pemba Tsering 7) Ang Tsering Dorje 8) Dorje Went to summit at 9:00 [8:45] from C4 on north side. On top 1-1/2 hour, placed photos of Their Magesties and Japan and Nepal flags; each party sang their country's national anthem. All okay. Left BC 26 April. Shailendra Raj Sharma - 25 April 80 C2 31 March 4950m C3 14 April 5730m C4 20 April 6250m Summit via North Face on 21 April at 11:52 am and stayed 40 minutes, took photos, planted flags of Japanese Nepal and Jikei University by: 1) Tatsumi Sasaki, 1949 born, physician, Tokyo 2) Akihiko Kamori, 1958 born, physician, Tokyo 3) Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 28, Khumjung 4) Nima Tenzing, 34, Khumjung 5) Nima Nuru, 29, Pangboche Plans 2nd attack on 22 April and leave BC 26 April. Thus no attack on Ganesh II almost fine except weather. All members well. Nagao & Hamaguchi - 4 March 80 Ganesh V & II All members now in KTM, arrived yesterday Leave 7 March by road to Trisuli 1st attack Ganesh V Approach route: Trisuli Bazaar, Trisuli River, Bhote Kosi to Syabrubesi, west via Chilime Khola which goes north to border and then along border to Sangeng Glacier. BC at 4500m on Sangeng Glacier route on Ganesh V = North Ridge - half is rock, half snow and ice. 4 (or 5) camps above BC with highest at about 6600m at top of hanging glacier. Leave Trisuli Bazaar 8 March with 150 porters; 14 days to BC. Summit about end of April 5 Sherpas above BC including 2 Nepalese members including Lhakpa Dorje. Oxygen only for sleeping at C4. Most difficult part of Ganesh V climb and very dangerous is hanging snow in glacier 5900-6600m with many crevasses. If cannot climb Ganesh V and have enough time will try Ganesh II. Would move BC further up Sangeng Glacier and pretty much repeat 1979 autumn route up North Face with 4 camps on Ganesh II.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446646
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge-n face-nw ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kinichi Hamaguchi M 1941 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Pathologist Details Other expeditions
Akihiko Komori M 1958 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Nagao M 1929 Japan Leader Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Orthopedist Details Other expeditions
Norimasa Okabe M 1940 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Saburo Saito M 1957 Japan Climber Urawa, Saitama, Japan Saitama prefecture Details Other expeditions
Tatsumi Sasaki M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Shinohara M 1948 Japan Climber Ichikawa, Chiba, Japan Pediatrician Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Zimba Zangbu Sherpa M 1958 Nepal Climber Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Nuru Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN580101 AAJ Nagao, Yoshio - - 55:259 (1981) -
GAN580101 JAC Nagao, Yoshio Ganesh Himal 5, 1980 - 76:11-13 (1981) -
GAN580101 HJ Nagao, Yoshio Ganesh Himal V, 1980 - 38:166-169 (1980-1981) -
GAN580101 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
GAN580101 JAC Nagao, Yoshio Ganesh Himal 5, 1980 - 76:101-106 (1981) -
GAN580101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125901/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-Himal-V - - -
GAN580101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/38/25/expeditions-and-notes-38/ - - -