Ganesh IV | 1982 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Ganesh IV in 1982 via NE Ridge, led by Shigeru Nakada. Summit reached on 18th October 1982. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2052
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN482301
Peak ID GAN4
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shigeru Nakada
Sponsor Shinshu University Ganesh III and IV Expedition 1982
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Gorkha->Arughat->Yaru Khola
Basecamp Date 1982-09-17
Summit Date 1982-10-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 31
Total Days 35
Termination Date 1982-10-22
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to bad weather and 4 members sick
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Had permit for Ganesh II (GAN2-823-01)
Campsites BC(17/09,4300m),C1(28/09,5060m),C2(16/10,5800m),xxx(18/10,6200m)
Route Notes Nakada - 13 Nov 82 Ganesh III & IV BC - 4300m - 17 Sept C1 - 5060m - 28 Sept C2 - 5800m - 16 Oct Made deposit site between BC and C1. When made C1 are important. Dr Oneda fractured legs in roll 25 Sept and could not climb until 11 Oct. Another important member Kato sick (cold) and their climbing stopped. Other members load-carriers only, so no route-making until 11 Oct. C2 established 16 Oct and 2 days later site for C3 reached at 6200m right under a small peak. Nakada and all others except doctor reached this point. 4 members sick then and no more climbing. Decided to give up on 22 Oct because sick and bad weather: much snow and strong wind. Aim was to climb Ganesh IV by NE Ridge and then Ganesh III. All returned KTM 11 Nov. All well now: recovered on return march. Route is very safe, but very long and difficult rock and ice. Put in 3000m fixed rope and very safe: all route was fixed from deposit site to C3 site. Sharma, Tourism - 3 Nov 82 SE Ridge, North Ridge C2 Oct 16 for Ganesh IV 5800m but because bad weather 22 Oct abandoned. Climb got no higher than C2 on Ganesh IV. Only 8 days tiime left so shortage of time also gives as reason. Left BC. Sharma, Tourism - 27 Sept 82 Japanese Ganesh expedition made BC at 4300m on 17 Sept and start climbing Ganesh IV on 19 Sept. Nakada - 30 Aug 82 Nakada was on Ganesh III in spring 1980. 7 arrived KTM 24 Aug - leave KTM 1 Sept by road to Gorkha. Caravan from Arughat to Yaru Khola. 10 days caravan from Gorkha to BC. BC at 4500m on right side of Glacier at top of Yaru Khola. Route = West Face to South Ridge of Ganesh III (same as in spring 1980) but start climb with Ganesh IV. From BC first go around glacier where BC is (top or east end of glacier) to col on South Ridge of Ganesh III. On col will be C3 at 6300m then to Ganesh IV via this ridge leading away from Ganesh III to junction with NE Ridge of Ganesh IV, a route to Ganesh IV no one has tried before. 7 days from col (C3) to Ganesh IV summit and back to Col. Then to Ganesh III from col via South Ridge to col in 10 days. Arrive BC about 11 Sept and start climb about 15 Sept Arrive Col (C3) 30 Sept Ganesh IV summit 7 Oct Ganesn III summit 20-23 Oct, after rest at BC following Ganesh IV summit No Sherpas above BC. Medical oxygen only (2 hours only).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447558
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Minoru Hoshina M 1960 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Mathematics student at Shinshu University Details Other expeditions
Kazuyuki Hosokamo M 1961 Japan Climber Jyohana, Toyama, Japan Student of agriculture, Shinshu University Details Other expeditions
Yoshiaki Kato M 1958 Japan Climber Okazaki, Aichi, Japan Student of agriculture, Shinshu University Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Nakada M 1951 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Ichiro Oneda M 1950 Japan Dep Leader/Exp Doctor Akashi, Hyogo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Keizo Seki M 1960 Japan Climber Himeji, Hyogo, Japan Student of agriculture, Shinshu University Details Other expeditions
Osamu Tanabe M 1961 Japan Climber Kariya, Aichi, Japan Student of agriculture, Shinshu University Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN482301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:236 (1983) -
GAN482301 IWA - - - 95:198 (1983) -
GAN482301 IWA - - - 95:41 (1983) -
GAN482301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323601/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-IV-Pabil-Attempt - - -