Ganesh IV | 1980 SSW Ridge up; SE Ridge-S Face down

A France expedition to Ganesh IV in 1980 via SSW Ridge up; SE Ridge-S Face down, led by Michel Feuillarade. Summit reached on 11th October 1980. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1857
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN480301
Peak ID GAN4
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SSW Ridge up; SE Ridge-S Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Michel Feuillarade
Sponsor Expedition to Ganesh Himal Autumn 1980
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Trisuli->Ankhu Khola
Basecamp Date 1980-09-25
Summit Date 1980-10-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 19
Termination Date 1980-10-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7104
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Had permit for Ganesh III (GAN3-803-01)
Campsites BC(25/09,4800m),C1(30/09,5700m),Smt(11/10)
Route Notes Decamp & Feuillarade - 27 Oct 80 Climb 8th Oct to 13th by 3 French. Feuillarade and 3 Sherpas tried to go via SW Ridge but it was too much for him to succeed. Tried on 9th and 10th reached about 6000m. Expedition finished after 13th safe descent. All Ok except Boissanet and Quilici. Would have gone to Ganesh II also if not so many members had left expedition in Sept and Thomas not strong climber. Difficult sections: 1) below 1st biv - snow mushrooms and very steep 2) about 6700m area more than 60% snow Climbed very light. no sleeping bags; down clothes and tent only. Made snow cave at 3rd bergschrund by Decamp, Dufour and Richier Climbed South SW Spur or Pillar: 8th Oct: BC to 1st Biv at 6100m 9th Oct: 1st Biv to 2nd Biv at 6500m 10th: 2nd Biv to 3rd Biv at 6900m 11th: 3rd Biv to summit to SE Ridge and down Japanese route with 4th Bivouac at 6900m 12th - 4 Biv to C1 13th - C1 to BC (see sketch map next page) Mohan Rai, Manaslu Trekking - 7 Oct 80 Dr. Boissonnet left expedition 23 Sept because of swollen foot from infected leech bite. Dr. Brochand left expedition with with Boissonnet and both fly to France tomorrow. Today Quilici arrived in KTM with pulmonary edema; left BC 28 Sept, was carried for first 3 days, walked rest of way; will also leave for France tomorrow. Feuillarade, Leblanc & Thomas - 2 Sept 80 Ganesh III and IV Ganesh IV route, SW Ridge up and SE Ridge down, this first goal Ganesh III after IV if time permits (route West Ridge) BC at 5000m south-southeast of Ganesh IV Approach via Ankhu Khola One camp above Ganesh IV; alpine-style climb for most part. French special food for altitude in plastic bags for different altitudes. If possible, after Ganesh IV will continue to traverse ridge eastwards and not descend to BC with one biv. Sherpas above BC: Lhakpa = member Mingma Tenzing = Sirdar + Dawa Bahadur Tamang maybe above BC (he will try) Oxygen medical only 3 members in KTM, rest or KTM 11 Sept; leave 13 or 14 Sept. 10 days approach much from Trisuli Bazar to BC. Medical research
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446819
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ssw ridge up; se ridge-s face down

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Herve Boissonnet M 1954 France Climber Orleans, Loiret, France Neurosurgeon Details Other expeditions
Dominique Brochard M 1951 France Climber Antibes, Alpes-Maritimes, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Erik Decamp M 1954 France Climber Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, Isere, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Guy Dufour M 1938 France Climber St. Sauveur-sur-Tinee, Alpes-Maritimes, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Michel Feuillarade M 1943 France Leader Gattieres, Alpes-Maritimes, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Henri LeBlanc M 1935 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Jean Paul Quilici M 1944 France Climber Levie, Corsica Alpine guide trainee Details Other expeditions
Alain Richier M 1940 France Climber St. Sauveur-sur-Tinee, Alpes-Maritimes, France Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Guy Thomas M 1945 France Climber Moret-sur-Loing, Seine-et-Marne, France Photographer Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN480301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:258 (1981) -
GAN480301 MM - - - 77:11 (Jan 1981) -
GAN480301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125802/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-IV-Pabil - - -