Ganesh IV | 1980 SSW Ridge up; SE Ridge-S Face down
A France expedition to Ganesh IV in 1980 via SSW Ridge up; SE Ridge-S Face down, led by Michel Feuillarade. Summit reached on 11th October 1980. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1857 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GAN480301 |
| Peak ID | GAN4 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SSW Ridge up; SE Ridge-S Face down |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Michel Feuillarade |
| Sponsor | Expedition to Ganesh Himal Autumn 1980 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 3rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Trisuli->Ankhu Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-09-25 |
| Summit Date | 1980-10-11 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 16 |
| Total Days | 19 |
| Termination Date | 1980-10-14 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7104 |
| Traverse | True |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Had permit for Ganesh III (GAN3-803-01) |
| Campsites | BC(25/09,4800m),C1(30/09,5700m),Smt(11/10) |
| Route Notes | Decamp & Feuillarade - 27 Oct 80 Climb 8th Oct to 13th by 3 French. Feuillarade and 3 Sherpas tried to go via SW Ridge but it was too much for him to succeed. Tried on 9th and 10th reached about 6000m. Expedition finished after 13th safe descent. All Ok except Boissanet and Quilici. Would have gone to Ganesh II also if not so many members had left expedition in Sept and Thomas not strong climber. Difficult sections: 1) below 1st biv - snow mushrooms and very steep 2) about 6700m area more than 60% snow Climbed very light. no sleeping bags; down clothes and tent only. Made snow cave at 3rd bergschrund by Decamp, Dufour and Richier Climbed South SW Spur or Pillar: 8th Oct: BC to 1st Biv at 6100m 9th Oct: 1st Biv to 2nd Biv at 6500m 10th: 2nd Biv to 3rd Biv at 6900m 11th: 3rd Biv to summit to SE Ridge and down Japanese route with 4th Bivouac at 6900m 12th - 4 Biv to C1 13th - C1 to BC (see sketch map next page) Mohan Rai, Manaslu Trekking - 7 Oct 80 Dr. Boissonnet left expedition 23 Sept because of swollen foot from infected leech bite. Dr. Brochand left expedition with with Boissonnet and both fly to France tomorrow. Today Quilici arrived in KTM with pulmonary edema; left BC 28 Sept, was carried for first 3 days, walked rest of way; will also leave for France tomorrow. Feuillarade, Leblanc & Thomas - 2 Sept 80 Ganesh III and IV Ganesh IV route, SW Ridge up and SE Ridge down, this first goal Ganesh III after IV if time permits (route West Ridge) BC at 5000m south-southeast of Ganesh IV Approach via Ankhu Khola One camp above Ganesh IV; alpine-style climb for most part. French special food for altitude in plastic bags for different altitudes. If possible, after Ganesh IV will continue to traverse ridge eastwards and not descend to BC with one biv. Sherpas above BC: Lhakpa = member Mingma Tenzing = Sirdar + Dawa Bahadur Tamang maybe above BC (he will try) Oxygen medical only 3 members in KTM, rest or KTM 11 Sept; leave 13 or 14 Sept. 10 days approach much from Trisuli Bazar to BC. Medical research |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446819 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | ssw ridge up; se ridge-s face down |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Herve Boissonnet | M | 1954 | France | Climber | Orleans, Loiret, France | Neurosurgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Dominique Brochard | M | 1951 | France | Climber | Antibes, Alpes-Maritimes, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Erik Decamp | M | 1954 | France | Climber | Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, Isere, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Guy Dufour | M | 1938 | France | Climber | St. Sauveur-sur-Tinee, Alpes-Maritimes, France | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Michel Feuillarade | M | 1943 | France | Leader | Gattieres, Alpes-Maritimes, France | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Henri LeBlanc | M | 1935 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Paul Quilici | M | 1944 | France | Climber | Levie, Corsica | Alpine guide trainee | Details Other expeditions |
| Alain Richier | M | 1940 | France | Climber | St. Sauveur-sur-Tinee, Alpes-Maritimes, France | Alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Guy Thomas | M | 1945 | France | Climber | Moret-sur-Loing, Seine-et-Marne, France | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GAN480301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 55:258 (1981) | - |
| GAN480301 | MM | - | - | - | 77:11 (Jan 1981) | - |
| GAN480301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125802/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-IV-Pabil | - | - | - |