Ganesh IV | 1978 S Face-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Ganesh IV in 1978 via S Face-SE Ridge, led by Shigehiko Toyoda. Summit reached on 20th October 1978. 23 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2142
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN478301
Peak ID GAN4
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shigehiko Toyoda
Sponsor Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt Pabil
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st,2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1978-09-10
Summit Date 1978-10-20
Summit Time 1245
Summit Days 40
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7104
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 3400
Total Members 23
Summit Members 16
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/09,3700m),C1(13/09,4330m),C2(18/09,4900m),C3(22/09,5300m),ABC(25/09,5700m),C4(16/10,6600m),C5(19/10,6900m),Smt(20,22/10)
Route Notes M Hashimoto & Yoshio BC - 10 Sept - 3700m C1 - 13 Sept - 4330m C2 - 18 Sept - 4900m C3 - 22 Sept - 5300m ABC 25 Sept - 5700m C4 - 16 Oct - 6600m C5 - 19 Oct - 6900m Summit 20 Oct - 9 Japanese 4 Nepalese 22 Oct - 2 Japanese 1 Nepalese 3 weeks to C4 because 4 avalanche covered C3 and C2 with snow. In C3 5 Japanese members 7:00 am 5 Oct having morning tea when avalanche covered C3, but members cut tent and members got out Ok. When C2 hit (different day) no one there; all below for safety. 5 Oct evening avalanche in ABC. 6 members there; again all Ok. ABC = snowhole and had to keep entrance open all night. After avalanching and realizing face direct means much fixed rope, decided to go over to SE Ridge (much equipment lost in avalanches including rope). About 9 Oct decided to go ridge. 20 Oct 1st summit attack one fixed rope: all together 1) Mingma Tenzing - C4 to top 2) Sonam Wolang - C4 to top 3) Thapa - C4 to top 4) Tomita - 5) Yasuda 6) Bhandari 7) Okuma 8) Yoshio 9) Aoyagi 10) Suzuki 11) Shingi - C4 to top 12) M Hashimoto - C4 to top Strong wind on summit and very cold; snow ridge very narrow; room only one man on top at a time. Left C5 7:00 am and C4 5:00 am. C5 waited for C4 to join them all up together. Reached summit 12:45+. Each back to camp which came from. 22 Oct 3 members to top as given by Ministry; on 21 they reached C4. F. Suzuki and 2 others in support but not 3rd summit attack because now all tired. No accidents because 3400m fixed rope in place on face and ridge (1600m added to replace lost by avalanche). No sickness or frostbite. All members arrive KTM 4 Nov (except leader) and all in good health. Most difficult from ABC to C4: very steep blue ice. M Hashimoto made route. Miss Oktari's summit 1st woman's 2nd ascent of 7000m peak in Nepal. They hoisted the National flags of Nepal and Japan on the summit with this success, altogether eleven Japanese and five Nepalese climbers have summited. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 78 Ganesh IV from SE Face summit 20 Oct - 12:43 pm Yogendra Thapa Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, head constable Wolang Sonam, head constable Kamal Bhandari, subinspector Hashimoto Y Hashimoto Yasuda Shinzi Tomita 3 Yoshio Aoyagi Okuma Suzuki, T Left Kukhri on top and hoisted 2 flags. All 3 groups left summit at 13:20 hours. Reached C4. Biv 6600m where 7 climbers spent night of 19 Oct. Yesterday from C4 2 Japanese and 4 Nepal (arrived 19 Oct). On 20th all these 13 went to top. Finished climbing, all are well. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78 Not only C3 was hit by avalanche. Also C2 hit and personal equipment in C2 swept away. Route between C2 and C3 damaged. Yoshio & Toyada - 17 Aug 78 Pabil & Ganesh II in Ganesh Himal 23,361 feet = 7120m ) Never attempted BC at 3500m Route via South Face Above BC 300m rock climbing and snow face to C1 C1 -> C2 glacier C2 -> C3 hanging BC -> C3 3000m vertical C3 up: ice and snow wall 1500m vertical, very difficult face. Would like to split route about C3 and same go off to right and thence to ridge. Yesterday decided to climb Ganesh II (7150m) next mountain east of Pabil, but not yet approved by HMG but Ra by police. Ganesh II also unattempted. From Pabil, Ganesh IV would approach via Ganesh II's East Ridge. 5 km from Pabil summit to Ganesh II summit. All except Dr. in KTM now; main party leaves 25 Aug. 7 police climbers on expedition Arrive BC after 10 days Summit Pabil mid-Oct, only after Pabil summit reached will shift to Ganesh II assault. On Ganesh II assault: C6 Pabil summit C7 on ridge to Ganesh II C8 on ridge to Ganesh at 6900m ridge = snow and rock arete (knife ridge) No Sherpa HA porters, only climbing members from police + BC staff No oxygen for climbing.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446095
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-se ridge

Members

23 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kimiaki Aoyagi M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Instructor at Cannon Co. (teaches workers how to make cameras) Details Other expeditions
Kenji Goto M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Masao Hashimoto M 1954 Japan Manager Tokyo, Japan Designs electrical systems in buildings Details Other expeditions
Yoshiaki Hashimoto M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Car engineer wielder Details Other expeditions
Yoshitaka Okuma M 1949 Japan Climber Tokuyama, Yamaguchi, Japan Ship designer Details Other expeditions
Emiko Okutani F 1954 Japan Climber Funaba-shi, Chiba, Japan Works in a law office Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Omira M 1949 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Welding machine designer Details Other expeditions
Tsuneo Shimoji M 1956 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Machine engineer (produces kitchen equipment) Details Other expeditions
Fumio Suzuki M 1949 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Machine engineer (produces nuts and bolts) Details Other expeditions
Teruo Suzuki M 1951 Japan Climber Asaka, Saitama, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Takashi Tomita M 1938 Japan Dep Climbing Leader Tokyo, Japan Company director (transport & construction company) Details Other expeditions
Shigehiko Toyoda M 1928 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Director of institute teaching mountaineering & skiing Details Other expeditions
Kuniaki Yano M 1944 Japan Exp Doctor Sakai-shi, Japan Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Ichiro Yasuda M 1942 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Machine engineer producing Matsuda motorcars Details Other expeditions
Hideki Yatsuhashi M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Printer (of books) Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Yoshio M 1937 Japan Acting Leader Funaba-shi, Chiba, Japan Employee of fish cold-storage company Details Other expeditions
Kamal Bhandari M - Nepal Climber Shiva Nagar, Chitwan, Narayani Zone Subinspector in Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Lal Bahadur Pun M - Nepal Climber Tikhedhunga, Parbat, Gandaki Zone Assistant Subinspector in Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Gupta Bahadur Rana M 1945 Nepal Climber Gurouli, Bharawa Pakaudi, Lumbini Zone Subinspector in Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Ang Chotare Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Thami, Khumbu Police force Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Thami, Khumbu Head constable Details Other expeditions
Sonam Wolang Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Olangchunggola, Taplejung Police Details Other expeditions
Yogendra Bahadur Thapa M 1948 Nepal Dep Climbing Leader Kundahar, Pokhara Inspector Nepal Police Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN478301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:270 (1979) -
GAN478301 AAJ Toyoda, Shigehiki - - 53:618 (1980) -
GAN478301 IWA - - - 67:145 (1979) -
GAN478301 IWA - - - 67:43 (1979) -
GAN478301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061802/Asia-Nepal-Pabil-Ganesh-IV-1975 - - -
GAN478301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927001/Asia-Nepal-Pabil-Ganesh-IV - - -