Ganesh IV | 1978 S Face-SE Ridge
A Japan expedition to Ganesh IV in 1978 via S Face-SE Ridge, led by Shigehiko Toyoda. Summit reached on 20th October 1978. 23 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2142 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GAN478301 |
| Peak ID | GAN4 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Shigehiko Toyoda |
| Sponsor | Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt Pabil |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st,2nd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Nepal |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1978-09-10 |
| Summit Date | 1978-10-20 |
| Summit Time | 1245 |
| Summit Days | 40 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7104 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 3400 |
| Total Members | 23 |
| Summit Members | 16 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(10/09,3700m),C1(13/09,4330m),C2(18/09,4900m),C3(22/09,5300m),ABC(25/09,5700m),C4(16/10,6600m),C5(19/10,6900m),Smt(20,22/10) |
| Route Notes | M Hashimoto & Yoshio BC - 10 Sept - 3700m C1 - 13 Sept - 4330m C2 - 18 Sept - 4900m C3 - 22 Sept - 5300m ABC 25 Sept - 5700m C4 - 16 Oct - 6600m C5 - 19 Oct - 6900m Summit 20 Oct - 9 Japanese 4 Nepalese 22 Oct - 2 Japanese 1 Nepalese 3 weeks to C4 because 4 avalanche covered C3 and C2 with snow. In C3 5 Japanese members 7:00 am 5 Oct having morning tea when avalanche covered C3, but members cut tent and members got out Ok. When C2 hit (different day) no one there; all below for safety. 5 Oct evening avalanche in ABC. 6 members there; again all Ok. ABC = snowhole and had to keep entrance open all night. After avalanching and realizing face direct means much fixed rope, decided to go over to SE Ridge (much equipment lost in avalanches including rope). About 9 Oct decided to go ridge. 20 Oct 1st summit attack one fixed rope: all together 1) Mingma Tenzing - C4 to top 2) Sonam Wolang - C4 to top 3) Thapa - C4 to top 4) Tomita - 5) Yasuda 6) Bhandari 7) Okuma 8) Yoshio 9) Aoyagi 10) Suzuki 11) Shingi - C4 to top 12) M Hashimoto - C4 to top Strong wind on summit and very cold; snow ridge very narrow; room only one man on top at a time. Left C5 7:00 am and C4 5:00 am. C5 waited for C4 to join them all up together. Reached summit 12:45+. Each back to camp which came from. 22 Oct 3 members to top as given by Ministry; on 21 they reached C4. F. Suzuki and 2 others in support but not 3rd summit attack because now all tired. No accidents because 3400m fixed rope in place on face and ridge (1600m added to replace lost by avalanche). No sickness or frostbite. All members arrive KTM 4 Nov (except leader) and all in good health. Most difficult from ABC to C4: very steep blue ice. M Hashimoto made route. Miss Oktari's summit 1st woman's 2nd ascent of 7000m peak in Nepal. They hoisted the National flags of Nepal and Japan on the summit with this success, altogether eleven Japanese and five Nepalese climbers have summited. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 78 Ganesh IV from SE Face summit 20 Oct - 12:43 pm Yogendra Thapa Mingma Tenzing Sherpa, head constable Wolang Sonam, head constable Kamal Bhandari, subinspector Hashimoto Y Hashimoto Yasuda Shinzi Tomita 3 Yoshio Aoyagi Okuma Suzuki, T Left Kukhri on top and hoisted 2 flags. All 3 groups left summit at 13:20 hours. Reached C4. Biv 6600m where 7 climbers spent night of 19 Oct. Yesterday from C4 2 Japanese and 4 Nepal (arrived 19 Oct). On 20th all these 13 went to top. Finished climbing, all are well. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78 Not only C3 was hit by avalanche. Also C2 hit and personal equipment in C2 swept away. Route between C2 and C3 damaged. Yoshio & Toyada - 17 Aug 78 Pabil & Ganesh II in Ganesh Himal 23,361 feet = 7120m ) Never attempted BC at 3500m Route via South Face Above BC 300m rock climbing and snow face to C1 C1 -> C2 glacier C2 -> C3 hanging BC -> C3 3000m vertical C3 up: ice and snow wall 1500m vertical, very difficult face. Would like to split route about C3 and same go off to right and thence to ridge. Yesterday decided to climb Ganesh II (7150m) next mountain east of Pabil, but not yet approved by HMG but Ra by police. Ganesh II also unattempted. From Pabil, Ganesh IV would approach via Ganesh II's East Ridge. 5 km from Pabil summit to Ganesh II summit. All except Dr. in KTM now; main party leaves 25 Aug. 7 police climbers on expedition Arrive BC after 10 days Summit Pabil mid-Oct, only after Pabil summit reached will shift to Ganesh II assault. On Ganesh II assault: C6 Pabil summit C7 on ridge to Ganesh II C8 on ridge to Ganesh at 6900m ridge = snow and rock arete (knife ridge) No Sherpa HA porters, only climbing members from police + BC staff No oxygen for climbing. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446095 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s face-se ridge |
Members
23 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kimiaki Aoyagi | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Instructor at Cannon Co. (teaches workers how to make cameras) | Details Other expeditions |
| Kenji Goto | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Travel agent | Details Other expeditions |
| Masao Hashimoto | M | 1954 | Japan | Manager | Tokyo, Japan | Designs electrical systems in buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshiaki Hashimoto | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Car engineer wielder | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshitaka Okuma | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Tokuyama, Yamaguchi, Japan | Ship designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Emiko Okutani | F | 1954 | Japan | Climber | Funaba-shi, Chiba, Japan | Works in a law office | Details Other expeditions |
| Shinichi Omira | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Welding machine designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsuneo Shimoji | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Machine engineer (produces kitchen equipment) | Details Other expeditions |
| Fumio Suzuki | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Machine engineer (produces nuts and bolts) | Details Other expeditions |
| Teruo Suzuki | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Asaka, Saitama, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Tomita | M | 1938 | Japan | Dep Climbing Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Company director (transport & construction company) | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigehiko Toyoda | M | 1928 | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Director of institute teaching mountaineering & skiing | Details Other expeditions |
| Kuniaki Yano | M | 1944 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Sakai-shi, Japan | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Ichiro Yasuda | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Machine engineer producing Matsuda motorcars | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideki Yatsuhashi | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Printer (of books) | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Yoshio | M | 1937 | Japan | Acting Leader | Funaba-shi, Chiba, Japan | Employee of fish cold-storage company | Details Other expeditions |
| Kamal Bhandari | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Shiva Nagar, Chitwan, Narayani Zone | Subinspector in Nepal Police | Details Other expeditions |
| Lal Bahadur Pun | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Tikhedhunga, Parbat, Gandaki Zone | Assistant Subinspector in Nepal Police | Details Other expeditions |
| Gupta Bahadur Rana | M | 1945 | Nepal | Climber | Gurouli, Bharawa Pakaudi, Lumbini Zone | Subinspector in Nepal Police | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Chotare Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Thami, Khumbu | Police force | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Thami, Khumbu | Head constable | Details Other expeditions |
| Sonam Wolang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Olangchunggola, Taplejung | Police | Details Other expeditions |
| Yogendra Bahadur Thapa | M | 1948 | Nepal | Dep Climbing Leader | Kundahar, Pokhara | Inspector Nepal Police | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GAN478301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 53:270 (1979) | - |
| GAN478301 | AAJ | Toyoda, Shigehiki | - | - | 53:618 (1980) | - |
| GAN478301 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:145 (1979) | - |
| GAN478301 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:43 (1979) | - |
| GAN478301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061802/Asia-Nepal-Pabil-Ganesh-IV-1975 | - | - | - |
| GAN478301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927001/Asia-Nepal-Pabil-Ganesh-IV | - | - | - |