Ganesh III | 1984 W Ridge from Col between Ganesh IV & Ganesh III

A Switzerland expedition to Ganesh III in 1984 via W Ridge from Col between Ganesh IV & Ganesh III, led by Roland Garin. Summit reached on 7th October 1984. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1024
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN384301
Peak ID GAN3
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge from Col between Ganesh IV & Ganesh III
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Roland Garin
Sponsor Diablerets Ganesh Expedition to Ganesh III
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-22
Summit Date 1984-10-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 25
Termination Date 1984-10-17
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to heavy snow and wind (couldn't await better weather because need to return to work)
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/09,4300m),C1(28/09,5300m),C2(02/10,6200m),xxx(07/10,6400m)
Route Notes This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's. Turned back on 7th Oct by bad weather. Planned C3 at about 6700m but never reached it. On 7th fixed same rope towards C3 and expected next day to make C3, but 8th very windy and cloudy and little snow. All night of 8/9 Oct snowed and decided to return to BC. That night C1 the two tents flattened and all poles broken by fierce wind; avalanche came down too but camp was protected by crevasse above into which avalanche fell. Route above C1 not very safe because of seracs. 14th 2 members and 2 Sherpas to C2 but deep snow above C1 and much new snow came all that night and wind. Down again on 15th with recoverable equipment (1 tent at C2 broken by heavy snow). Wirz on 24 Sept fell 2m at 4500m ("stupid accident", injured shoulder); this was all, but lost one day's climbing from it. Shrestha, Tourism - 23 Oct 84 Abandoned climb. High point 6400m 7 Oct by 3 Swiss and sirdar but had to retreat because bad weather. 9 Oct C1 5300m swept away by wind avalanche and returned to BC to await better weather. 14 Oct 2 Swiss and 2 Sherpas went to C2 6200m, but 14th and 15th heavy snow and high wind. 15 Oct returned to BC and decided to abandon. Left BC 17 Oct and arrived KTM 23 Oct. Banskota, Tourism - 1 Oct 84 BC at 4300m on 22 Sept. On 25 Sept when team was on way to fix rope to C1, Tony Wirz slipped on glacier, fell down 1 meter and dislocated left shoulder. He was helicoptered to KTM 29 Sept. C1 pitched at 5400m on 28 Sept Wirz reports.
Accidents Wirz fell 2m at 4500m Sep 24, injured shoulder ('stupid accident')
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448280
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge from col between ganesh iv & ganesh iii

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Frederic Cochard M 1960 Switzerland Climber Brent, Vaud, Switzerland Railway mechanic Details Other expeditions
Michel Faure M 1942 Switzerland Climber Brent, Vaud, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Fehr M 1948 Switzerland Exp Doctor Chateau D'Oeux, Bern, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Roland Garin M 1947 Switzerland Leader Vers l'Eglise, Geneva, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bernard Liardet M 1948 Switzerland Climber Les Diablerets, Vaud, Switzerland Cable-car electrician & head of mountain rescue group Details Other expeditions
Jean-Daniel Macherel M 1960 Switzerland Climber Chene-Bougeries, Geneva, Switzerland Life insurance company employee Details Other expeditions
Monique Moesching F 1948 Switzerland Climber Vers l'Eglise, Geneva, Switzerland Bank clerk Details Other expeditions
Philippe Thivolet M 1963 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Student Details Other expeditions
Jean-Claude Vuagniaux M 1943 Switzerland Climber Yvonand, Vaud, Switzerland Butcher Details Other expeditions
Tony Wirz M 1944 Switzerland Climber Chavannes-le-Chene, Vaud, Switzerland Army test pilot Details Other expeditions
Ang Phuri Lama M 1948 Nepal Sirdar Beni-3, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN384301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:278 (1985) -
GAN384301 HJ Allen, Rick & Garin, Ronald Ganesh Himal - 42:27-34 (1984-1985) -
GAN384301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527802/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-II-Attempt - - -
GAN384301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/42/6/ganesh-himal/ - - -