Ganesh III | 1980 SE Face-E Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Ganesh III in 1980 via SE Face-E Ridge, led by Peter Molinari. Summit reached on 16th October 1980. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1892
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN380301
Peak ID GAN3
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Peter Molinari
Sponsor Joint Nepal-Swiss Ganesh III Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Trisuli->Chilime
Basecamp Date 1980-09-30
Summit Date 1980-10-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to bad ice conditions
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/09,4650m),C1(10/10,5650m),xxx(16/10,6000m)
Route Notes This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's. Molinari - 14 Nov 80 Re photo: (dotted lines ... shows first route making which aborted because of constant falling seracs then tried to reach 6300m peak with plan to descend its ridge to Ganesh III's East Ridge (solid line route on photo) 1st * Point 6300m is between Ganesh III (left) = prov. C1 - 5300m 2nd = final C1 - 5650m x = high point of 6000-6100m below ice nose on Peak 6300m horizon reached on 16 Oct Turned back because ice too brittle to hold ice screws and else where there was deep snow made BC 30 Sept and final C1 on 10 Sept Molinari leaves Nepal in Feb - March 81 for another overseas post-permanent. Molinari - 4 Nov 80 Not successful. Reached 6000-6100m; difficult to find route. 1st attempt, all vertical rock face; route to peak between Ganesh III and Ganesh V and behind this peak about 6300m down 200m or so and up 1000m East Ridge. Not sure from BC whether could actually get to top via ridge which had very bad rotten ice conditions. Other route possibility threatened by deep-snow avalanche. Tried final route SE Face to East Ridge between Ganesh III and V. BC 30 Sept 4650m C1 10 Oct 5650m East Ridge to broad peak No C2 High point 16 Oct by all 4 Swiss All well and all Swiss arrive KTM 2 days ago - Nepal members reluctant to leave BC and left earlier. Molinari - 17 Sept 80 All others members arrived KTM 15 Sept. Expedition with Dutli and Molinari wives, leave KTM in two groups, 1st one with porters by truck to Trisuli Bazaar on 21 Sept and 2nd one probably including Molinari, on 23rd to 25th Sept. Wives to be included as members of expedition, but they are not climbers and will go only to BC. Molinari - 17 Aug 80 Route = SE Face from Glacier south of SE Ridge (new route) Nepalese say Sangeng Glacier is now in Tibet 6 members = 4 Swiss and 2 Nepalese Leave KTM 20 Sept (Molinari returned to KTM 12 Sept) 2 came from Switzerland (1 was on Numbur) To Trisuli Bazaar by road, thence to Salme, Bhairabkot, Tiru Danda, Mailung Pati. Will take 4 days to BC (loads will have gone to BC via Trisuli River to Syabrubesi, Thangjet, Chilimegaon, Jagesar Kund). BC at about 4500m on glacier south of SE Ridge. Probably then up S Ridge or SE Ridge to SE Face. Don't know exact route try to go straight up if weather and difficulties on mountain permit. So 3 or 4 bivouacs; no fixed camps expected. No H-A porters on climb. 2 Sherpas members No oxygen for medical
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446824
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-e ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hans-Heinrich Bachofen M 1951 Switzerland Climber Seuzach, Zurich, Switzerland Forest engineer Details Other expeditions
Urs Braschler M 1951 Switzerland Climber Stans-Oberdorf, Nidwalden, Switzerland Forestry engineer Details Other expeditions
Richard Dutli M 1947 Switzerland Climber Bern, Switzerland & Pokhara, Nepal Mathmatician: working for SATA's teacher training programme Details Other expeditions
Peter Molinari M 1948 Switzerland Co-Leader Kathmandu & Zurich, Swizterland Civil engineer, SATA/HMG Small Hydel Development Details Other expeditions
N. Phinzo Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Co-Leader Kathmandu (born Beni, Solukhumbu) Trekking guide Details Other expeditions
Sarki Tshering Sherpa M 1952 Nepal Climber Chiwang Khop, Solukhumbu Trekking guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN380301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:258 (1981) -
GAN380301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125801/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-II-Attempt - - -