Ganesh III | 1979 SE Ridge (to 6100m)
A Japan expedition to Ganesh III in 1979 via SE Ridge (to 6100m), led by Takeo Ohmori. Summit reached on 19th October 1979. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2105 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | GAN379301 |
| Peak ID | GAN3 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge (to 6100m) |
| Route 2 | N Face |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Takeo Ohmori |
| Sponsor | Okayama University-Nepal Joint Expedition 1979 (Ganesh III) |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | 1st-3rd |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Nepal |
| Approach | Trisuli Bazar->Chilime Khola->Sangjung Glacier (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-09-14 |
| Summit Date | 1979-10-19 |
| Summit Time | 1109 |
| Summit Days | 35 |
| Total Days | 42 |
| Termination Date | 1979-10-26 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7043 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 7 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(14/09,4580m),C1(20/09,5200m),C2A(26/09,6050m),xxx(6100m); C2B(03/10,5700m),C3(13/10,6100m),C4(18/10,6500m),Smt(19-21/10) |
| Route Notes | This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's. Kitahara, ex-helicopter - 25 Oct 79 Summit 20 Oct - Ogura again Maeda Eguchi Mingma Tenzing 21 Oct Kitahara and Yoko Leader BC all the time Kitahara little sick; others leave 26 BC and arrive 1 Nov. Climbed North Face; others route from C2 very difficult and changed route making: New C2 - 5700m C3 - 6100m C4 - 6500m 1st and 2nd parties to top from C4, 3rd from C3. Otsu - 17 Oct 79 North Face Ganesh III instead of East Ridge. Made C3 already and hope for summit end Oct. Ogura - 24 Aug 79 All 6 Japanese members now in KTM. Kuroda goes to Japan 25 Aug, so not member of climbing team; only advance party. 2 Nepalese members: Mingma Tenzing Summit 1978 Tilicho, Japan C5 1977 Annapurna I, Dutch Will use oxygen for sleeping in C3; but not for climbing 50 days BC to summit because want all members to reach and summit 10 days approach march Kuroda's information of 12 Aug correct otherwise Kuroda - 12 Aug 79 2 arrive 11 Aug; others arrive 22 Aug. Leave 1 Sept by road to Trisuli Bazar; leave Trisuli 2 Sept Arrive BC after 9 days with 120 porters BC on Sangjung Glacier at 4700m Route = SE Ridge Spr 1973 "trial expedition" led by Ogura went to Sangjung Glacier and reached SE Ridge Col at 6000m on trekking-recce climb will climb from glacier to col and thence up ridge. 3 camps above with C3 at about 6500m. C2 at Col most difficult part: We have many avalanches below Col from both sides at 7000m rock knife-ridge Reach summit after 50 days from BC arrival on 10 Sept. Expedition student members, very young, 1st time in Nepal, not professional. "Safety climbing we hope so we climb up only five days." 6 Japanese members and 2 Nepalese (Sherpa) members and 1 sirdar Pasang and 5 HA Sherpa porters. Oxygen, maybe only medical but if dangerous, also sleeping; only 4-5 bottles: 1-2 at BC, rest at col. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446460 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge (to 6100m) |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shinji Eguchi | M | 1957 | Japan | Climber | Okayama, Japan | Agriculture student (Okayama University) | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Kitahara | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan | Staff member, Amagasaki-higashi Public Health Centre | Details Other expeditions |
| Mitsuyasu Maeda | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Fukui-shi, Fukui, Japan | Geology student (Okayama University) | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideo Ogura | M | 1946 | Japan | Climbing Ldr/Exp Doctor | Okayama, Japan | Medical student (Kochi Prefectural Hospital) | Details Other expeditions |
| Takeo Ohmori | M | 1937 | Japan | Leader | Okayama, Japan | Director of chain of furniture shops | Details Other expeditions |
| Makoto Yoko | M | 1958 | Japan | Climber | Hita, Oita, Japan | Agriculture student (Okayama University) | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Thami, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Tshering Sherpa | M | 1943 | Nepal | Climber | Thamo, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Norbu Sherpa | M | 1957 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Yilajung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tendi Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
9 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| GAN379301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 53:618 (1980) | - |
| GAN379301 | HJ | Ogura, Hideo | First Ascent of Ganesh II | - | 37:168-171 (1979-80) | - |
| GAN379301 | JAC | Ogura, Hideo | Ascent of Ganesh Himal II (1979) | - | 75:147-159 (1980) | - |
| GAN379301 | MM | - | - | - | 71:14 (Jan 1980) | - |
| GAN379301 | - | Okayama University Alpine Club | Lapsang Karbo, Ganesh Himal II - 7150m, 1979 | Okayama University Alpine Club, Okayama, Japan | - | jA298 |
| GAN379301 | IWA | - | - | - | 74:154 (1980) | - |
| GAN379301 | IWA | - | - | - | 74:42 (1980) | - |
| GAN379301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061801/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-II | - | - | - |
| GAN379301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ | - | - | - |