Ganesh III | 1979 SE Ridge (to 6100m)

A Japan expedition to Ganesh III in 1979 via SE Ridge (to 6100m), led by Takeo Ohmori. Summit reached on 19th October 1979. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2105
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN379301
Peak ID GAN3
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge (to 6100m)
Route 2 N Face
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Takeo Ohmori
Sponsor Okayama University-Nepal Joint Expedition 1979 (Ganesh III)
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 1st-3rd
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Trisuli Bazar->Chilime Khola->Sangjung Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1979-09-14
Summit Date 1979-10-19
Summit Time 1109
Summit Days 35
Total Days 42
Termination Date 1979-10-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7043
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/09,4580m),C1(20/09,5200m),C2A(26/09,6050m),xxx(6100m); C2B(03/10,5700m),C3(13/10,6100m),C4(18/10,6500m),Smt(19-21/10)
Route Notes This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's. Kitahara, ex-helicopter - 25 Oct 79 Summit 20 Oct - Ogura again Maeda Eguchi Mingma Tenzing 21 Oct Kitahara and Yoko Leader BC all the time Kitahara little sick; others leave 26 BC and arrive 1 Nov. Climbed North Face; others route from C2 very difficult and changed route making: New C2 - 5700m C3 - 6100m C4 - 6500m 1st and 2nd parties to top from C4, 3rd from C3. Otsu - 17 Oct 79 North Face Ganesh III instead of East Ridge. Made C3 already and hope for summit end Oct. Ogura - 24 Aug 79 All 6 Japanese members now in KTM. Kuroda goes to Japan 25 Aug, so not member of climbing team; only advance party. 2 Nepalese members: Mingma Tenzing Summit 1978 Tilicho, Japan C5 1977 Annapurna I, Dutch Will use oxygen for sleeping in C3; but not for climbing 50 days BC to summit because want all members to reach and summit 10 days approach march Kuroda's information of 12 Aug correct otherwise Kuroda - 12 Aug 79 2 arrive 11 Aug; others arrive 22 Aug. Leave 1 Sept by road to Trisuli Bazar; leave Trisuli 2 Sept Arrive BC after 9 days with 120 porters BC on Sangjung Glacier at 4700m Route = SE Ridge Spr 1973 "trial expedition" led by Ogura went to Sangjung Glacier and reached SE Ridge Col at 6000m on trekking-recce climb will climb from glacier to col and thence up ridge. 3 camps above with C3 at about 6500m. C2 at Col most difficult part: We have many avalanches below Col from both sides at 7000m rock knife-ridge Reach summit after 50 days from BC arrival on 10 Sept. Expedition student members, very young, 1st time in Nepal, not professional. "Safety climbing we hope so we climb up only five days." 6 Japanese members and 2 Nepalese (Sherpa) members and 1 sirdar Pasang and 5 HA Sherpa porters. Oxygen, maybe only medical but if dangerous, also sleeping; only 4-5 bottles: 1-2 at BC, rest at col.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446460
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge (to 6100m)

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shinji Eguchi M 1957 Japan Climber Okayama, Japan Agriculture student (Okayama University) Details Other expeditions
Takashi Kitahara M 1950 Japan Climber Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan Staff member, Amagasaki-higashi Public Health Centre Details Other expeditions
Mitsuyasu Maeda M 1956 Japan Climber Fukui-shi, Fukui, Japan Geology student (Okayama University) Details Other expeditions
Hideo Ogura M 1946 Japan Climbing Ldr/Exp Doctor Okayama, Japan Medical student (Kochi Prefectural Hospital) Details Other expeditions
Takeo Ohmori M 1937 Japan Leader Okayama, Japan Director of chain of furniture shops Details Other expeditions
Makoto Yoko M 1958 Japan Climber Hita, Oita, Japan Agriculture student (Okayama University) Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal Climber Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M 1943 Nepal Climber Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Norbu Sherpa M 1957 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tendi Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN379301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:618 (1980) -
GAN379301 HJ Ogura, Hideo First Ascent of Ganesh II - 37:168-171 (1979-80) -
GAN379301 JAC Ogura, Hideo Ascent of Ganesh Himal II (1979) - 75:147-159 (1980) -
GAN379301 MM - - - 71:14 (Jan 1980) -
GAN379301 - Okayama University Alpine Club Lapsang Karbo, Ganesh Himal II - 7150m, 1979 Okayama University Alpine Club, Okayama, Japan - jA298
GAN379301 IWA - - - 74:154 (1980) -
GAN379301 IWA - - - 74:42 (1980) -
GAN379301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061801/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-II - - -
GAN379301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -