Ganesh II | 1988 NE Face (to 6100m)

A UK expedition to Ganesh II in 1988 via NE Face (to 6100m), led by Julian Mathias. Summit reached on 8th April 1988. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 90
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN288101
Peak ID GAN2
Year 1988
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face (to 6100m)
Route 2 NE Spur
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Julian Mathias
Sponsor British Ganesh Expedition 1988
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Buri Gandaki->Shar Khola->Tarogampa Khola
Basecamp Date 1988-03-23
Summit Date 1988-04-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 23
Termination Date 1988-04-15
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to snowfall, avalanching, bad visibility and poor health
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/03,4570m),C1(28/03,5180m),C2(04/04,5790m),xxx(08/04,6100m)
Route Notes This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's. BC northeast right underneath Ganesh IV at yak hut C1 at moraine of branch Tarsgampa Glacier C2 just below entrance ice fall to use NE Face High point at NE Face. Recced up NE Spur left of Japanese route but found it very dangerous from enormous avalanches, so moved to NE Face to left main NE Ridge. Recce 24th. Placed C1 for NE Face climb. Now only 2 climbers because Mothersele ill and never went beyond BC and Downs only litte way above BC (perhaps to 18,000 ft), found it hard going and gave up. From C2 climbed through icefall with water gushing from top if it while huge avalanching going on. 5th April descended to BC because of snow; full previous night. 7th up from BC to C2 and 8th up through "waterfall" but felt impossible to climb high without heavy aids and/or siege tactics. Had only 5 days food left for this push. Went down on 8th with hope of trying Japanese route (NE Spur) but poor weather and each got sick in turn. Donovan did try solo Japanese route on 17th but gave it up too after reached 19,000 ft when warm clouds obscured where he was going. Ganesh II very avalanche prone and therefore very dangerous in warmer seasons - great bowl which means warmth and much snow melt - Japanese route probably is the safest route. Downs - 23 April 1988 Abandoned just east route on 9th April - very technical by Donovan and Mathias. Downs did recce to 18,000 ft on north side and others were to try this beginning 16th April. Leave BC 21st. Downs left BC on 15th and leaves Nepal 28th. Mothersele ill - chest infections which got before BC - in BC only 3 days and then left expeditions. Donovan and Mathias should arrive KTM 27-28th.
Accidents Mothersele serious bronchitis
Achievement 1st British and Americans on Ganesh II
Agency Sherpa Society
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449563
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face (to 6100m)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Daniel Donovan M 1965 UK Climber London, England Ecologist Details Other expeditions
Robert Downs M 1928 USA Climber Auburn, California Commercial pilot (Auburn Flying Service) Details Other expeditions
Julian Mathias M 1958 UK Leader Bristol, Avon, England Dentist Details Other expeditions
Jon Mothersele M 1949 UK Climber Cardiff, Wales Diver on North Sea oil rigs Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN288101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 63:210 (1989) -
GAN288101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198921001/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-III-Attempt - - -