Ganesh II | 1981 NE Spur-N Face

A Japan expedition to Ganesh II in 1981 via NE Spur-N Face, led by Ken Kanazawa. Summit reached on 16th October 1981. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1802
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID GAN281301
Peak ID GAN2
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Spur-N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Ken Kanazawa
Sponsor Nepal & Kyushu Dental College Alpine Association Himalayan Exp
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-09-17
Summit Date 1981-10-16
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 29
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7118
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/09,3800m),C1(22/09,4600m),C2(01/10,5400m),C3(06/10,6300m),Smt(16/10)
Route Notes This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's. Kanazawa - 29 Oct 81 NE Ridge to North Ridge = route. Ridge joined at about 6300m and here German route joined Japanese (or rather vice versa) BC 3800m 17 Sept C1 4600m 22 Sept C2 5400m 1 Oct after storm C3 6300m 6 Oct Summit 10 days later: very steep rock band and ice face. 2 days rest at BC; but no food at high camp and they went down, so Japanese also down because Japanese had to give Germans precedence. Japanese arrived C3 1 day before Germans and fixed same rope above C3 before Germans arrived. Needed fixed rope all way to summit from C3; put in 1000m: Japanese and Germans alternating pitches at first all 4 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members started up from C3 with German 4 early morning. Then Japanese sirdar [Ang Phuri] wanted to turn back, so Kanazawa had to go back with him. No accidents, etc. No oxygen Japanese route simple and easy; German route more difficult technically, but perhaps more safe; Japanese route more difficult in Spring. Sharma Tourism - 23 Oct 81 Joined Germans at C3 at 6360m on 15 Oct (had established C3 6 Oct). 16 Oct Japanese followed Germans to summit at 2:00 pm: Tendi Sherpa, 25 Kirki Lama, 28 All Japanese except leader Ken Kanazawa, 1945, dentist 1) Nobuhide Kuwahara, 1944, Tokyo, dentist 2) Joji Nakamura, Fukuoka, 1948, dentist 3) Nobuhiro Hase, 1956, Kekubunji, salesman Kanazawa - 3 Sept 81 Last autumn Japanese route = present route = NE Ridge. Present expedition's C3 and Warth's camp very near at 6000m on snow plateau. From here same route to summit, so Japanese must wait for Warth to finish his attempt before they make their attempt to reach summit. Kanazawa - 30 Aug 81 Approach via Buri Gandaki to Toragompa Khola to Toragampa Glacier. Want same North Ridge as 1980 autumn Japanese route, maybe same as Germans this season: Kanazawa proposes to Germans (Hermann Warth) they share route with Japanese behind Germans. Leave KTM 4 Sept Arrive BC at 3900m about 18 Sept Start climb 24 Sept C4 highest about 6500m Summit about 20 Oct and return, KTM 2 Nov 4 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members (Nepalese = Sherpas) [Sherpas nominal members for permit] 3 H-A Sherpas also (to C1 or C2 only) No oxygen at all
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID GAN281302
Checksum 2447190
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne spur-n face

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nobuhiro Hase M 1956 Japan Climber Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan Salesman Details Other expeditions
Ken Kanazawa M 1945 Japan Leader Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan Dentist Details Other expeditions
Nobuhide Kuwahara M 1944 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Dentist Details Other expeditions
Joji Nakamura M 1948 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Dentist Details Other expeditions
Tendi Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kirki Lama Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phuri Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
GAN281301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:225 (1982) -
GAN281301 MM - - - 83:10 (Jan 1982) -
GAN281301 IWA - - - 88:188 (1982) -
GAN281301 IWA - - - 88:45 (1982) -
GAN281301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198222501/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-III - - -